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Trouble developing 120 film


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I have recently moved up to medium format and want to develop my B&W

film but I'm having a really difficult time getting the film onto the

developing reel. I have developed my own 35mm film for some time

now but the 120 is getting the better of me at the moment. It seems

to flex more easily than 135 and just pops out of the grooves of the

developing reel. Any suggestions or tips on getting the film to load

easily would be appreciated. As I said, I have developed 135 before

so I know how it goes but I just cant get the 120 onto the reel.

I'm using the plastic type of reel but would the metal reels be

better. Thanks.

 

Steve

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With the metal reels the film is wound from the inside out while the plastic reels are wound from the outside. The only time the metal reels are easier to load then the plastic one is when the reels are wet.

 

Take a roll and practice in daylight. Plastic reels need to be extended for 120 film.

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I use the metal reel for 120 and the first few times were a challenge. As suggested many times on this board, waste a roll of film and work things out with the lights on. One important thing to remember with metal reels is that you have to get the film aligned with the reel when you first start winding. For me its a mater of feel. Another important aspect is to handle the film carefully to prevent those little creases in the film - they kind of mess up the image.
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Plastic reels work fine if they are dry. The biggest problem with typical plastic reels is that the starting flange is too small. I strongly urge you to try the so-called "Ultra" reels. These have very wide flanges and are exceedingly easy to load. Sometimes these go by the name "Easyload."
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A couple of suggestions.

 

First, do as the others have suggested and waste one roll and practice in the light where you can see what is happening. Use the film use shoot most often becuase different films can sometimes have different feels. If it does not stay on in the light, your reel is more likely bent and needs to be replaced.

 

Second, hold your hands farther apart when loading. I found that I had less trouble loading when I let a bit more film extend from the spool before winding it on the reel. This allows the film to flex easily into the grooves, but keeping the spool close to the reel make the film stiffer and less likely to load easily.

 

Third, always be sure that the film is centered on the reel before winding and stop if it begins to wind incorrectly. Again, if you have a lot of loading problems, your reel may be bent.

 

Hope this helps...

 

 

- Randy

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I used the metal reels for a while, but couldn't get on with them - kept leaving crescent-shaped stress marks on the film because I inadvertently pressed it together too hard to get it on the reel.

 

I also hate the ball-bearings in the plastic reels - for me they often get such a grip on the film that i have to stop winding, unwind and try again.

 

Now I make sure that the reel is perfectly dry, and I no longer use rinsaid or photoflo in the final wash because I think it does something to the reels that makes it hard to load them (I use pure distilled water instead)and - I no longer wind the film onto the reel ... I push it on!

 

I make a very small 45 degree cut to each edge of the film so that there is no sharp 90 degree angle to snag up, line-up the start flanges of the reel so that both ball bearings are directly opposite each other, and simply push the film all the way onto the reel. If you try this, only feed the film in by a small amount each time - try to do too much and it will flex and kink. If it gets stuck, turn the reel on its side and bang it smartly on the counter. If it is still stuck, try winding a little until it frees. I never have a problem now, and am considering removing the ball bearings entirely!

 

Regards,

Neil.

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Well thanks for the suggestions and advice, everyone. Yes, I have practiced in daylight but still seem to have trouble. The suggestion of "easyload" reels is a good one and I will look for those. Also, the idea of pushing the the film on instead of winding had not occured to me so I'll give that a try as well. And finally, Mark, yes, I did extend the reel to 120 size. I had to laugh at that one, very good. I guess more practice is in order. Thanks again.

 

Steve

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I find SS reels easier to load than plastic ones for 120. It could be because I have been doing it for so long. As you separate the film from the paper backing, peel the tape off of the backing and wrap it around the end of the film. This will give you film in the middle and tape on both sides for about 1/2 inch on both sides. This will give you something more rigid to fit into the clip in the cener of the reel. I will assume for the moment that you are right handed. With the reel in your left hand your middle finger should be on top and your thumb on the bottom. You will insert the end of the film into the clip with your right thumb and index finger. Then you will feel with your left middle finger and thumb whether the film is siting in the clip properly from top to bottom. Once this is done you will sqeeze the film gently between your right thumb and index finger as you turn the reel clockwise with your left hand. The film should then go in very nicely. The standard 120 SS reel gives a nice amount of space between the wires of the spiral.
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differntt types of reels have differnt problems.

I don't have a 120 ss reel.

the oldest bakelite adjustable reels ( large tank requires 32 ounces)

and a correstpndigly large reel with deeper flanges may be the easiest. must be clean and dry.

 

when the reel is adjusted correctly you can just push the film in.

nipping corners is a good idea.

 

the reel is smooth with deep flanges. and groves.

 

sometimes you pust about half the length in and cup the film slightly and rotate the reel and gently push/ feed the film to the center/end of the spiral.

 

you will still have half the length rolled up in your hand.

 

then allow the film to thread it self while rotating the reel

care must be taken not to tilt the reel , hard to do in the dark, so the film does not bind or cock and jam or kink.

 

I still have some more MODERN?? tanks the old fr tanks with a hook on the hub. the reel is loaded from the middle and the sharp hook prevents the film from spiralling or pulling out of the reel while winding it in.

 

not too dissimilar from a ss reel.

open any fr tanns you may see , some had a double flange for 2 rolls of 35mm.

 

I was never happy with the Yankee rachet type reel and tank.

 

these FR tanks were the cheapest available and i bought them at garage sales from those who had taken a photo course. I still may have tanks from the early 1950's and 127 days.

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I remember that same frustration when I first tried 120. I thought I'd *never* get the hang

of it. I didn't read every post entirely so these suggestions may have been offered, but

here goes anyway.

 

In the dark, I unroll the exposed 120 film and reroll it back onto the same spool but in the

opposite direction and put it in a heavy black plastic bag (the kind papers come in). That

gets

the tight roll out of it from being on that little spool. I leave it there for a bit to give it

time to "relax"...from an hour to a day, depending on how much time I've got.

 

When I'm ready to put it on my plastic reels I feel my way in the dark to just *barely* snip

the corner edges off that will thread into the little grooves on the reel.

 

Now that I'm used to 120 film, it threads on quickly and easily. I thought it never would,

but it does. Keep trying. And like someone said, practice in the light. And keep those

spools dry - damp ones are VERY frustrating and damaging!

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One does get the hang of stainless steel reels over time. I can load 120, 116 (70mm wide), and even 122 (92mm wide) films on their matching stainless steel reels with no trouble. A lot of it has to do with getting the feel, and letting the natural curl of the film do the work for you.

 

Ok, so the 122 is harder than the other sizes. Mostly getting it started in the clip. But no stress spots or V's.

 

It does pay to have decent reels (old Nikors, or new Hewes), rather than the cheap Chinese junk that has flooded the market. The only Hewes reels I have are 135, which I love. The others are probably Nikors. I doubt anyone else ever made 127, 116, or 122 reels...

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Cutting the edges off is good advice. I learned to load 120 film onto plastic reels by practicing while watching TV. Just play with it while you're sitting there. I also learned how to open and close a butterfly knife while watching the NBA play-offs, without too much loss of blood.
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I use plastic (Paterson) reels. The trick is to put three fingers side-by-side under the film and your thumb on top. Then you pull the end of the film into the reel. I put the reel into t a deep plastic tray (a horticultural gravel-tray) to stop it rolling with the lugs at the entrance to the reel at the top. The entrance top the reel faces towards me. I use my left hand to steady the reel and my thumb to feel where the lugs are. Then, I just move the end of the film towards the reel until I feel it scratch against my left thumb. Then, it's just a matter of feeling the film into the reel and pulling it in beyond the ball-bearings. Try it in daylight with a roll of old film first to get the technique.
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A trick with SS reels is to clip the film inside as usual then lay the reel down on the counter top and just roll the film on. You do in fact have to have a lighter touch with MF but with a properly loaded reel, and as your going along, make sure there is a little "play" as your rolling it on. If the play stops (check it periodically as your loading by giving a slight tug...), just back out until you get the play again.
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