tan_tien_yun Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 Hi all, I've been having problems utilizing my Tri X film of late with my old standby HC110. I've had no problems pushing the film by 1-2 stops, but when I shot a series of rolls of a jazz night, I noticed that my exposed highlights-midtones developed nicely , but all the shadow/shadow details have all been eliminated! I've tried developing in 24C, but still no luck. Posted here is the results, and I hope that you guys could help you out! Rgs, TY<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tan_tien_yun Posted July 31, 2005 Author Share Posted July 31, 2005 Note: the pictures have been taken along a dim stage, with iso 3200 reading of : f2, 1/60 sec (if taken with standard iso, it would translate into f 1.4 1/15 secs) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce_watson1 Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 That's pretty normal. Push processing doesn't change the sensitivity of the film. All it does it change the maximum density and the slope of the response curve (the gamma or "contrast index"). If you don't hit the film with enough light to record an image, then you don't get an image. And this is what happens in your shadow areas. To record shadow detail, you need a film with a higher base speed. I'm thinking you'll get better results under your conditions with a film like Neopan 1600, TMZ, or Delta 3200. These films have an actual base speed of around 1000 or so. This extra couple of stops boost may be just what you need to record some detail in your shadows. But don't expect miracles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tan_tien_yun Posted July 31, 2005 Author Share Posted July 31, 2005 MMMM..that's a pretty clear explanation. Now at least I know what's going on..thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian_c._miller Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 I recommend that you experiment with a grey-scale test card and different dilutions and times for HC110. I did a <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/688330">test photo</a> to find out just how Tmax 400 @ 3200 performs. Sure, the lows drop off, but the scene doesn't have to be too high-contrast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtk Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 Try Tetenal Emofin, a two bath developer. I'm impressed by its pushed shadow detail...I get a highly detailed, very low contrast negative...ideal for scanning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_grasby Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 This may (or may not) be relevant, but another thing to think about is the use of red stage lighting in many music venues, which will further reduce the amount of light a film receives. In those cases, depending on the sensitivity to red of the film you use, it may be necessary to increase exposure (i.e. down-rate the film) by at least one stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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