ilford delta 100 processing

[mikeburke]

I'm thinking of switching from plus-x to Ilford delta 100. They seem

to give similar results. I'm wondering what the general consensus is

on this film as a 35mm film and what processing I should use with D-

76.

[jordan_w.]

Films like these look different in everyone's hands. Best thing to do is try a few rolls and see what it looks like with your process. I like Delta 100 but can't compare it to Plus-X, which I've never used.

[rich_ullsmith1]

I' have shot a lot of this film. By far my favorite film. Sharper than Pan F+, and the highlights seem easier to print.

 

For people pictures take the D-76 . . .don't have the times off the top of my head, but go to unblinkingeye.com, those times for ISO 50 work well. Stock solution, I think.

 

For places and things, Rodinal 1+50 20c 8.5m, ISO 50. This is really a great combination. For a little extra drama, try Rodinal 1+200, 2 hrs at 20c, agitate continuously for the first minute, then leave it alone. ISO 50, too. I know you didn't ask about the Rodinal, but it's cheap and can sit on the shelf for years according to some. Really is worth a try.

[david_beal___richmond_hts.]

What do you want to do with it? I use Delta 100 as well, but it, and other new technology films, do not render midtones as well as conventional grain silver. Taking a picture of a newborn baby with smooth skin or emphasizing all the wrinkles in an elderly face? New technology films are a good choice. Portraiture of a middle aged or elderly subject? Conventional grain. Landscapes? New technology films do a great job.

 

Try exposing it at 50 and developing in Rodinal 1:50. See DigitalTruth.com for times.

 

Good shooting.

 

/s/ David Beal ** Memories Preserved Photography, LLC

[mikeburke]

Thank you all for your responses. I'm just getting back into the darkroom. I will be doing mostly portraits with the B&W film so I need the nice midtones I get from Plus-x. I figure if kodak cant sell me paper why give my film business to them when ilford will still support us.

[keith_tapscott]

Ilford supply the times for Kodak D-76 with their films, use them for your starting points and adjust from there if necessary.

[scott_mcloughlin]

I've been experimenting with Delta 100 recently as well. Someone advised here that most developers will produce good results on this film with proper processing, and I'm inclinced to agree.

 

So far, I've tried Acutol 1:14 (7 minutes, shortest recommended time I could find) and HC-110 (H) 1:63 (11 minutes, 1 minute short of 2x the 6m dil. B time on the MDC).

 

Both look similar, actually, but I think HC-110 might have a slight edge. I have another few rolls of exposed Delta 100 to experiement with, to see what I can get consistent.

 

HC-110 is alot less futzy than D76. I never liked mixing it up and worrying about (and suffering) the speed up as it oxidized. Pain in the butt. HC-110 I find super flexible, and a great soup for controlling excessive contrast/highlight at higher dilutions.

 

Acutol is a new soup for me, and I will have to worry about oxidation, but so far I think it's match made in heaven for FP4+ - just as sharp, somewhat finer grain and better shadows. And I might lean toward it's somewhat sharper look for Delta 100 as well. Still not decided. Acutol will oxidize, so I just got a bunch of little glass jars. Still, don't have to mix from powder.

 

Best of luck, but HC-110 is so cheap, flexible and convenient, I urge you to snag a bottle and give it a try. I'm new to Delta 100 and find it to be a really fantastic film. Fine grain, scans well, nice tones and so far *WAY* more forgiving than TMX.

 

Scott

[f_p]

Try delta 100 in perceptol.

[rothelle]

The benchmark film in the 100 group is Ilford Delta 100.

Delta 100 in Xtol 1:1, 10.5 minutes @ 20 Celsius, gives an EFS of 100, very good sharpness, fine grain, and nice tonal gradation.

 

But I still love Kodak Tri-X:)