starting large format b&w, need some suggestions!

[nate_ross]

I have been using large format for about a year now, but due to the

requirements (mostly just because they supply our film) of my school,

everything has been shot on provia.

 

I traded in my super gee-whiz autofocus medium format system for a

lighting kit and a toyo field camera. I'm loving it.

 

So anyway, I have much experience with self-processing black and white

rollfilm. I know lots about different developers, and films, et cetera.

 

What I would like to know is this: Is there anything you've picked up

in the way of tricks for processing sheet film that someone coming

from rollfilm wouldn't readily know?

 

I just arranged to trade some canon fd gear for a jobo processing tank

with a 4x5 reel, so I think I'm all set there..

 

I have 125 sheets of hp5+, and I'm thinking I will probably go with

wimberly's wd2d+ developer in conjunction with tf4 fixer, because this

left me with easy-printing negs in 35mm and 120.

 

Since grain is less of a concern because of the larger film, are there

any developers out there you'd recommend that would give a sharper neg

with better tonality? I've only used id-11, ddx, d76, and wd2d+,

mainly, with a few similar developers thrown in there also.

 

Last question for tonight, are efke and fomapan decent films for b&w

portraiture work?

 

I lied, last one: Do they still make pan f+ in 4x5? I haven't been

able to find it in the US. Is it available across the pond?

[john_cook1]

I personally am not a fan of rotary b&w processing. The consistency is necessary for color. But for b&w it invites complications such as breakdowns in the middle of a run, and (from personal experience with Jobo) spare parts which are no longer made. Also, techniques like still development are not possible.

 

My preference would be for a series of Combi tanks, one for each chemical, used with tops open in the dark, as with an "old-fashioned" dip-and-dunk line. Trying to pour chemicals through that tiny hole in the lid is a recipie for disaster.

 

Tonality is a very subjective thing. But increased sharpness, or more properly acutance, is of course obtainable with soups like Ethol T.E.C., Formulary FX-1, Rodinal, Calbe R09, and Neofin Blau. All diluted as weak as possible. But you are correct, that the results are much less spectacular than with 35mm because of the decreased amount of enlargement.

 

Some Efke films being orthopanchromatic will "distort" skin tones. Depending upon whether you are photographing old sea captains or little princesses, you may find the effect artistic or hideous. Also, don't beat the stuffing out of this film - the emulsion is extremely tender. Use hardening fixer, keep wet time to a minimum, and keep the chemical and wash temperatures consistent and on the cool side.

 

Finally, the Ilford US website now has a list of currently produced films and other products. Click on "Monochrome Product Availability List".

 

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/homeng.html

[david_beal___richmond_hts.]

No. PanF+ is no longer available in sheets. Try FP4 downrated, or Efke 50 (remember, it's orthopanchromatic).

 

I use BTZS tubes (homemade, but you can buy them as well). Check out Paul Butzi's webside. Combi tanks are well spoken of by many. Yankee tanks are OK for stand development with things like Rodinal 1:100, but difficult to agitate for conventional processing.

 

Good shooting.

 

/s/ David Beal ** Memories Preserved Photography, LLC.

[silent1]

I've understood only Efke 25 had the reduced red sensitivity, with the Efke 50 being a perfectly ordinary Type B pan film.

 

I haven't ever used Efke, but Fomapan 100 is very nice stuff. I personally like very dilute HC-110 with reduced agitation, which is pretty incompatible with a Jobo and roller base of any kind; I process my Fomapan in homebuilt daylight fill tubes made from ABS pipe.

 

Another film you might consider is J&C Pro 100 -- quite good film, and very inexpensive (cheaper than Fomapan by a good margin). Box not included, though...

[nate_ross]

so am i right in my understanding that I cannot use this jobo tank as I would a regular steel tank with spirals to develop 35mm or 120 film? I was under the impression i could use it with inversion agitation just like I do rollfilm..

 

did i miss something?

 

Also, thanks for the other great suggestions everyone! Keep them coming.

[skygzr]

The JOBO tank takes something like 3 liters to fill it. You CAN use it this way, but it's kinda expensive. Used in rotary mode, 600ml covers the film.

[nate_ross]

no, i got a tiny little one. with a 4x5 reel. the second smallest one here:

http://www.jobo-usa.com/products/2500.htm

[silent1]

If that's the one I think it is, it's comparable in size to the oversize stainless Nikor that takes 4x5 and smaller sheet sizes; if so, it takes about a liter to fill, and holds, what, six sheets (the 270 ml they list is for rotary processing)? Still on the expensive side (that 6 sheets of 4x5 is equivalent, for capacity purposes, to 1.5 rolls of 35 mm or 120), but not *too* horrible if you either mix your own developer or use a high dilution. With HC-110 Dilution G (1:119 from syrup) you'll have just about twice the minimum developer needed for that amount of film.

[j_robinson2]

Take a look at the work of Dick Arentz. A master in B&W platinum printing. He uses simple D-76 for his processing.

 

Just pick a developer that has been giving good photograpers decent images & try it. Almost anything will work fine but if you use what others who are excellent do you have one worry out of the way.

 

If you want a staining developer Sandy Kings Pyrocat HD is easily made & one of the least expensive developers on the market.

[mb81]

HC-110 dil. B is a great all around developer that will last ages if kept with a floating lid. I process all my sheet film in this stuff.

As far as developing tricks go, I have three deep tanks and I use the dip and dunk process for my 8x10 efke PL 100. All you need are some hangers, which come cheap on Ebay. Agitate by dunking and pulling out. Agitate constantly for 1 minute and then let the hangers sit for 30 seconds, then agitate for 30 seconds and so on.

With tray processing, although it is supposed to be constant agitation, I use the same method as with deep tank, I just shuffle the film for agitation.

 

Efke film is awesome for portraiture. The skin tones are incredible. I tend to rate it down to ISO 80 and develop it at the recommended ISO 100 time though, due to the fact that it seems to need a little more exposure then most films. This film is very very soft though, so be very carful. IT WILL SCRATCH IF NOT CARFUL. After developing and stoping, use a hardening fixer rather than a rapid fixer. This will keep the film from scratching after dried.

[hilander]

Nate, your Jobo tank will work fine for inversion style processing. Jobo does

not reccomend it because of the amount of chemistry it uses. Just make sure

to use enough liquid in it, takes a little over a quart. I've been using Rodinal

1:100 with good results.

[nate_ross]

thanks everyone! it seems like I'm willing to give rodinal a try. now if only my tank would arrive...

[tim_curry]

Nate, if you are trying rodinal, give 4x5 tubes a try with stand development. This will be a very sharp combination! tim

 

http://www.apug.org/forums/article.php?a=101

[nate_ross]

Thanks, Tim! I'm very interested in this, as it's a lot cheaper than the Jobo which it seems is not coming..

 

I'm a little confused where it says "To use these tubes, load a film rolled in the screen in the dark."

 

Can you elaborate a little?

[tim_curry]

Basically, I use the screen as a backing for the film to make removal after processing easier. If your screen is cut 4 1/4" x 6", there will be enough length to cut away about an inch at the top, leaving a "pull-tab" in the center of the short side to draw out the film. Good idea to cut the screen slightly bigger than the film so it rests completely on the screen.

 

Procedure I use is as follows. Have a tube, plug, screen and film holder out and turn off the lights. Open the film holder, remove film with emulsion side up and place on top of the screen. Pick up the screen with the film on it and gently roll it into a tube-shaped cylinder. Be sure not to scratch the film with screen edges which are raw from the cutting process. Slide the screen-film cylinder into the open tube, add water for pre-soak and screw in the plug (leave room for air to be displaced as the plug is screwed in place).

 

You now have film in the tube which is light-tight, presoaking is moving along. You can now turn on the lights and mix developer to pour in. As I've said, minimal agitation is the best way to go for sharpness (depending on your developer). With Efke 100 and pyrocat, the results are stunning. Amazing depth of detail and an etched look which is hard to describe, nice full, sharp, shadows also. I tried scanning an example to post from this weekend's shoot, but my scanner and software are not up to the task. Did one shot with minimal agitation and one without. Clear winner is minimal agitation, here's the print. tim<div></div>

[tim_curry]

Sorry for the lousy scan. tim