jeff_schroeder Posted March 23, 2000 Share Posted March 23, 2000 I am doing some testing of my own right now but I would appreciate input from others. I want to choose a 400 speed film which I can rate anywhere from 200 to 1200. At 200 to 400 I will use PMK (I like the results I get from both Tri-X and HP5+ in PMK) but for the faster E.I. I will develop using either Xtol or Microphen. Can anyone give me their ideas and/or experiences. Right now I seem to have narrowed my choice to HP5+ or TMY400. Which one of these two pushes better? Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_megargee Posted March 24, 2000 Share Posted March 24, 2000 IMHO - I would go with HP5+ or Tri-X not TMY400. I might also consider a developer other than the two you are thinking of using. Such as HC- 110. But as with all things related to this -testing is the only way to go. But I would test out the different combinations with an eye towards the final size of prints you intend to be making in the future. Often a film /developer combo that works well (fine grain,etc.) at 8X10 print size does not hold up well at 16/20 or 20/24. This is not an uncommon result of "pushing "film in "fine grain" developers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfram_j._f._kollig Posted March 24, 2000 Share Posted March 24, 2000 As I do use PMK, I would rather like to comment on using Tri-X/HP5+/TMY at 400 to 1600. <p> To me seems like the old emulsions TriX/HP5+ are better for pushing. I fairly often pushed Tri-X to 1600. (Even 3200 can be done)Using DD-X, which is similar to Microphen. I use Tri-X at 400 to 1600 for portraits or when ever I feel the need for a nice grain structure.(New emulsions look almost grainless at 8*10'') <p> What I did not like was TMY pushed 2 stops in Xtol simply grainy, too grainy for my taste (marriage picture in the church).For 400 and fine detail I use Delta 400 in Xtol 1:1. <p> I was not really happy with my results for HP5+ in Xtol. So maybe I should have tried Microphen. <p> Kind regards, <p> Wolfram Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h._david_huffman1 Posted April 26, 2000 Share Posted April 26, 2000 Jeff, In past years I have a great deal of success using Tri-x and Accufine developer. Accufine is manufactured somewhere in Chicago and ads can be found in Shutterbug as well as many other magazines.Probably on-line as well. The Accufine pushes at least one stop and can be used for more of a push. There is, also, a two-bath developer, made by the same company, called "DiaFine" which is supposed to work very well and gives low grain.Hope this helpsDavid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_stockdale Posted April 28, 2001 Share Posted April 28, 2001 I agree that Tri-X and Acufine is a good combination. I used it for years taking shots in an old ice rink where I had to use a fairly fast shutter speed. These old negatives are as good as or better than any I have taken with other films I've tried in similar light situations, including TMax 400 and TMax developer. The grain is robust but sharp, and detail is very good. However, I did try Diafine once, and I found the look to be quite unacceptable. It had a soft mushy appearance, although the shadow density was ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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