patrick_f Posted May 29, 2005 Share Posted May 29, 2005 Hello! After searching photo.net and apug, I have not found the anwser to my question, so here goes: I have a few rolls of ilford film (delta 100, FP4, SFX) that I need to develop. The only developers I have on hand are Tmax and D76. I have searched, but cannot find any reccomended times for development in either developer. Anyone out there have any suggestions? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_unsworth1 Posted May 29, 2005 Share Posted May 29, 2005 Patrick Go to www.digitaltruth.com and click on 'massive development chart', you'll find the answer to your question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruno Posted May 29, 2005 Share Posted May 29, 2005 Delta 100 : http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/100_Delta.pdfFP4 Plus : http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/FP4Plus.pdfSFX 200 :http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/sfx200.pdf I have the fact sheet for Delta 400 and times for D-76 and TMax are listed. I suggest you, anyhow, to use D76. Tmax developer is really bad for "classic grain" emulsions, like FP4... eventually give it a try only with Delta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruno Posted May 29, 2005 Share Posted May 29, 2005 Delta 100 : http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/100_Delta.pdf FP4 Plus : http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/FP4Plus.pdf SFX 200 :http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/sfx200.pdf better formatting :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_malone Posted May 29, 2005 Share Posted May 29, 2005 Dear Patrick: I agree with Bruno. D-76 will work much better than T-Max developer. It is very close to Iford's ID-11 and development times should be close. The Massive Development Chart that steve referenced is a very good resource. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith_tapscott Posted May 31, 2005 Share Posted May 31, 2005 Hello Patrick, Kodak D-76 is an excellent choice for the films that you are using, with FP4 Plus and Delta 100, use D-76 diluted 1+1 and with SFX, use the developer at full strength. SFX can sometimes look a bit flat, so the full strength developer will help to boost the contrast a little. T-MAX developer tends to make the grain more noticable than D-76. T-MAX developer is a good choice though for high speed emulsions like T-MAX P3200TMZ and Ilford 3200 Delta as the developer is formulated to enhance shadows, making it particularly suitable for those high speed films. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith_tapscott Posted May 31, 2005 Share Posted May 31, 2005 FP4 Plus in D-76 diluted 1:1 try 10 minutes as a starting point, for Delta 100 in D-76 diluted 1:1, try 11 minutes as a starting point. For SFX in D-76 stock, try 10 or even 11 minutes, all times at 20 degrees C. Developing times are starting points and should be adjusted to suit your needs to print well on standard/normal paper grades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hans_van_hal Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 Patrick, Use D76. A few months ago I developed a Delta 400 film in TMAX. The result was awful. Lots of ugly grain. Grain can be nice but this was ugly and destroyed the ability to make any enlargements bigger than postcard size. TMAX developer should probably only be used for TMAX films. Delta 400 in D76 or ID-11 (which is really the same) gives me gratefying results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristian_skinner Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 I read an article somewhere that recommended Tmax developer for delta 100, as it's a tabular grain film very similar to kodak tmax 100, and it also had better acutance compared to D-76,which is especially good for delta 100 as it gives very good sharpness, though admittedly with a not insignificant increase in grain. It also depends on the format, if it's medium format the extra sharpness is worth the slight increase in grain because you wont notice it, but if it's 35mm, the grain might be too much of a sacrifice for a little extra sharpness on an already very sharp film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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