putri Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 MY TMAX 100 FILM TENDS TO PRODUCE DULL GREYISH HIGHLIGHTS. WHAT IS WRONG? The negative or the printing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Try developing longer. If the highlights block and show no detail, you went too far. Try 6 exposure test lengths and 10 % change in time. Just pull out 12 inches in the dark and develope the film. It helps if you have a full tonal range subject you can always use as a test, say a white stucco building with black shutters. Detail should show in the white stucco if it is cross lighted and the slats should show in the shutters. Exposure controls detail in the darkest areas,the shutters in this case, and film development controls the density of the highlights. There is a balance point each person must find for his own working methods, water supply, and agitation. HC110 is not the best developer for your film, if that is what you are using. It works and the inexperienced worker will think it is ok, but when compared to D76 or TMax, there is a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neal_wydra1 Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Dear Russel, Very hard to say, but assuming your development and exposure aren't grossly off, you should be able to adjust the exposure and contrast of your print to get a reasonable match to the original scene. Don't be afraid to stray from the #2 filter, the film police will never know.<g> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 A scan of the negs would be useful to aid diagnosis. What developer are you using? And what development times and temperature? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennis_oconnor3 Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 A year back I did a big thrash of 6 developers and 6 films... Made comparison prints till I was punchy... Used a standard target, same enlargement ratio, etc., etc., yadda, yadda.. Anyway, one of the things I noted about TMax 100 was that it liked D-76 (no surprise as Kodak tweaked it to perform in this old soup.) but it also was very happy in XTOL... And, for those who worry about the XTOL failure gremlin, I used part of the 5 liters (damn that's a pain to make up in jugs when I am standardized on gallon jugs. So, I use an enamel 12 quart, food canning pot, to mix the soup and then funnel it into the jugs.) Anyway, as I was saying I used part of that XTOL mix a year ago and left the gallon jug, 1/2 full set for a year... I just did a test clip this week on a flashed roll of film in the year old XTOL and it developed... I did not do a quality analysis as I was simply looking to see if it failed... It did not... I would not use a partially oxidized, year old soup for real negs, anyway - just a test... Kodak says 1 year in a full jug and a month or two in a partial jug... I no longer worry about XTOL failing... Finally, and to get back on topic, the original poster will benefit greatly from this link in calibrating his ASA and developing time - I know I did... http://www.apogeephoto.com/mag2-6/mag2-6mfcalib.shtml cheers ... denny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted May 31, 2005 Share Posted May 31, 2005 Dennis: nothing wrong with storing 5 liter Xtol in a gallon containter. It's just more concentrated, and IMO only slightly affects the development times. It's only two minutes difference between 1:1 and 1:2 for the 5 liter dilution, so the 4 liter dilution may just make this time shorter by 30 seconds or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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