bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 I get a dense thin line in the middle of a strip of film - 35mm, or medium format. Usually affects only a few negatives on the roll. What's causing this? Static electricity while I am loading the plastic reel? Doesn't look like light leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank.schifano Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 Static electricity is only a problem in very dry conditions. Think winter time in an overheated room when the humidity can go down to 40% or less. More than that, static electricity causes a "lightning bolt" shaped patterns, not a thin straight line. Here's an example of what it would look like: http://www.apug.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5042. Post an example so we can see what you're talking about. Anything else I can offer at this time would be pure speculation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_andrews10 Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 Never had static off a plastic reel. In fact the only time I've seen it, is radiating from the tape that attaches the backing paper to roll film. The static must discharge as I'm pulling the film away from the tape, but even then it only affects a small area next to the tape. This is a pure guess, but what you describe might be due to buckling of the film as you squeeze it into the reel, because pressure can also fog film. Are you trying to load your plastic reel from the centre, by any chance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted June 18, 2006 Author Share Posted June 18, 2006 Here's an example. Notice the faint line in the middle of the strip. Note that I bulk load the film. Thanks. <p> http://www.fauxfetus.net/faux/springpics/line-001.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 There seems to be a lighter area thru the persons head in the center frame. You have a slight case of insufficient fixer agitation. Refix and rewash. Do not put more liquid in the tank than is necessary to cover the reel. Usually this is 8 oz for a stainless steel 35mm reel. Too much inhibits movement of liquid and leaves under processed areas. You can not over agitate fix as it is a process that goes to completion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted June 19, 2006 Author Share Posted June 19, 2006 That's odd. Refixing didn't take care of the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan_goulet Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Does it ever go between two negatives, or is it always constrained within the boundaries of one negative? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan_goulet Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Disregard last question... I took aq closer look at the image you supplied, it definitely crosses the bounds between shots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_502260 Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 This looks like some kind of scratching to me. If dust is floating around inside your camera it cam come between the film and the pressure plate or it can get stuck on the film rails and scratch the emulsion side. This is more common with 35mm film because of the felt light trap but some medum format backs also have felt light traps and the same thing can happen if it isn't blown out with some canned air once in a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted June 19, 2006 Author Share Posted June 19, 2006 Not a scratch. I will try refixing again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_w. Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Sometimes pressure can "expose" film (i.e. folded kinks in 120 film will often show up dark after development). Could this be happening here with a protrusion of some kind in your camera body? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted June 19, 2006 Author Share Posted June 19, 2006 Doubt it. I use three cameras. They can't all be bad. Am I loading improperly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas_sullivan Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 This line is actually on the negative? Not just the scans you are showing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_andrews10 Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 After seeing the scans, I'm leaning towards the theory that there's a light leak in your developing tank. Especially since you say it affects 120 as well as 35mm. Some plastic tanks are not properly black, but have a very dark red pigment added to make them "lightproof". Could be a faulty batch of plastic, a cracked tank, faulty lighttrap in the tank, leaky changing bag, almost anything. I'd suggest developing a completely unexposed piece of film in the tank. Load it straight from your bulk loader to the tank, in as near to pitch black as you can get. Then follow your normal processing procedure, except overdevelop by around 50%, give plenty of fixing time, and see if you get the same fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted June 20, 2006 Author Share Posted June 20, 2006 Tom: on the negative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas_sullivan Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 we are talking about the extremely thin line.......that does tend to look like a scratch.........but you say isn't.....Right? Well, first, let's try seeing if it is a scratch. Take some skin oil from the side of your nose and smear in on one of the frames you don't really care about. If this is a scratch, meaning an actual physical mark on the negative, the oil will diffuse the light striking the scratch and should diminish it possibly to nothing....will at least show a difference. If there is no difference when you scan it, then it's not a scratch and try Pete's suggestion about the tank. If you need to borrow one, give me a call. However if there is a difference, first try cleaning the tank. If chemicals dry on the tank's walls, and then later you use it again, there is the possibility that enough debris can refloat in the tank and be hard enough to intermittantly scratch the negative. I clean my tanks every single time I use them by rinsing with extremely hot water immediately after the photo flo is dumped. They;ve lasted years this way........but, to tell you the truth, if you are using the tank where I think you are (no reflection on the owner, just maybe his other clientel ain't as carful), and the thing ain't been cleaned properly after each use...it's beyond hope. You may as well just buy your own and bring it with you. But, again, if you want to borrow one, give me a call. You may as well use unexposed film for this also as Pete suggests. No sense getting a Pulitzer Prize winner and it's ruined from scratches..heh it could be loading methods. You are feeding the film in from the outside and ratcheting the reels to load it..........Paterson plastic system reels, right? It could be the changing bag has some dirt in it...........try shaking it out and wiping with a damp cloth, the interior of course. Wash your hands up to your elbows before doing any film handling. Even if you do wear gloves for all this. Actually changing bags and developing tanks are relatively cheap..........just replace it all. By the time you get done with film and chemicals to weed out the culprit......you'de have $pent nearly as much anyhow....especially if you consider how much your time is worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted June 22, 2006 Author Share Posted June 22, 2006 These are not scratches, as I already stated. It's not my changing bag either, I loaded yesterday in my bathroom instead, still get the lines. So it's either the reels for my development tanks (2), or the development tanks. The small Jobo I have doesn't give me a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas_sullivan Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 You're not using the "swizel stick" piece of crap for the Paterson Tanks by any chance, are you? If so, throw it in the garbage. It does not work as well as the Jobo system in this regard. It's strictly agitating back and forth, no up and down motion. Invert the Paterson tank just like a metal one to thoroughly mixed up new and used up developer. If it starts to leak around the push on cap because of this, "burp" it....ie. lift up the cap slightly on one side and push down on the middle while you reseat it....that way the air will tend to get sucked in rather than the air/liquid getting pushed out.... If that don't resolve it..........I give up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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