In general which films work well with HC110

[adam_n.1]

I know this is an extremely general question. I've just started in a

photo class and we are using HC110 as our developer. I've used D76 at

home and am used to this. Right now we are restricted to using Plus-X

film because we are developing multiple reels at a time but soon we

are doing individual and can use any film we so choose. Are there any

films to really avoid using? My favorite is TMax 400, I saw in one

thread on here good results with using Ilford HP5. Any kind of loose

consensus?

[silent1]

My favorite film combination is T-Max 400, aka TMY, in HC-110 Dilution G (1:119 from syrup, or 1:29 from stock solution). Take a look at <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00AuoU">this thread</a> for examples, including 1:1 crops from 2400 ppi scans, of what this combination can do. I also have some images from this combination in my portfolio, some of them quite small crops (like sub-35 mm frame from a 6x4.5).<p>

 

You will need to use a double tank with an empty reel if you use Dilution G with 35 mm, in order to ensure you have enough concentrate to fully develop a roll; the minimum is 3 ml of syrup (or 12 ml of stock) for each roll, which means at least 360 ml of working solution in this dilution -- but it's worth it. My time has worked out to 19 minutes at 68 F, agitation full first minute and then ten seconds every third minute (if you prefer to agitate every minute, cut this time to about fifteen minutes, as a starting point), and I shoot at the rated speed.<p>

 

BTW, this dilution is also very economical, if you should decide you like it for your personal use; you'll get well over 100 rolls out of a bottle of concentrate.

[adam_n.1]

thank you donald.

it's good to read that tmax will work well.

i'm not sure what dilution we use, i can't remember right now. however it's premixed and we just get it out of a tap from a keg. we use double tanks and 10 oz. per reel, if that means anything. the last roll we developed was at 69 degrees for 3 1/2 minutes, which i'm looking at a chart now might make it dilution B.

[basscheffers]

Haven't tried many combinations yet, but I've found it to work well with both Delta (100 and 400) and HP5+.

 

From what I understand, it is one of the better "general purpose" developers, I am sticking to it for now.

[christian hilmersen www.]

Hmm, the t-max wasn't that impressive. Delta 400 in ultra-fin plus in better IMHO. (But it is hard to tell, as I have scanned with 4000 dpi - see my portfolio for 100% view)

[silent1]

<i>however it's premixed and we just get it out of a tap from a keg.</i><p>

 

If this is premixed Dilution B (you don't have to add additional water), you can pretty closely approximate Dilution G by adding three parts water to one part Dilution B working solution. You'll wind up with a final of 1:127 instead of 1:119 -- an insignificant difference, most likely, since there'll be bigger variations than that from sub-degree differences in temperature and differences between your timing and agitation technique and mine.<p>

 

BTW, 3:30 is an awfully short development time -- your teacher must be more interested in getting people out of the darkroom or using an easy to mix, economical dev than in getting good negatives, because it's very hard to get consistent (batch to batch) process with a time that short. In fact, there's a possibility you could see unevenness from partial immersion over the time it takes to fill and drain the tank, with a process time that short.<p>

 

At the very least, I'd suggest diluting the developer you receive with an equal amount of water and approximately doubling the processing time; this will give unofficial Dilution H, won't require any additional working solution even in a minimum volume 35 mm stainless tank, and will allow a long enough process for comfort.

[blumley]

I'd actually guess the keg is 'stock' solution. That's something you REALLY need to know to get the results you're looking for.

[ronald_moravec1]

T max works with 110. You will think it is fine until you try D76. Then it shines. Toneality relly pops.

 

Kodaks website lists it as not a primary recommendation as it is not bold face.

[adam_n.1]

<i>At the very least, I'd suggest diluting the developer you receive with an equal amount of water and approximately doubling the processing time; this will give unofficial Dilution H, won't require any additional working solution even in a minimum volume 35 mm stainless tank, and will allow a long enough process for comfort.</i>

<br>

<p>so, since we always use double tanks it would be possible then to simply use the developer amount of one reel (10 oz.) and then 10 oz of water? we don't add additional water to the mixture from the keg, it's all premixed/diluted. i might try this later in the course when i have more freedom to experiment.

 

i think the reason for using the dilution we use and the development times are purely economical, the budget for the school systems here hasn't been very good lately. although at least every student in class (25 or so) gets their own enlarger.