artflei Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 Hello, I just bought a Yashica Mat camera on eBay. It hasn't been delivered yet, but I already bought some 120 film. I wanted to buy Tri-X 400, but my store didn't have any, so I bought Tri-X 320. Now I have searched the archives here and it looks like Tri-X 320 isn't really a popular film, meaning not too many people use it. But since I have already bought it, I'm planning to also use it and that's why I need some help with development. The developer I'm using right now is Ilford ID-11. Ilford doesn't give any recommandations for TXP320. The time on digitaltruth as well as in Kodak's Tech Pub is 9 min (at 20?C) for D76 straight, which is supposedly the same as ID-11. Question #1: Are D76 and ID-11 really identical and can development times be converted 1:1? Question #2: Until now I have developed my film in a small Paterson tank, agitating for 10 seconds in 1 minute intervals (as recommended by Ilford). Kodak recommends agitating for 5 seconds every 30 seconds. What if I want to continue agitating in 1 minute intervals, do I have to adjust the total development time (9 minutes plus/minus something)? Thanks for your help! Arthur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neal_wydra1 Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 Dear Arthur, Congratulations on your new camera. Tri-X 400 is for 35mm only. 120 and sheet film is 320. 1) From a practical point of view, yes. 2) Choose whichever one you like and just stick with it. Modify your time based on the printing contrast you end up with. Add development time if you always end up with 3-1/2 or higher filters, subtract time if you're usually under 2. In any case, assuming your exposure is in the ballpark, you will get nicely printable negatives. If this is your first attempt to print larger negatives, you will be thrilled. Neal Wydra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db1 Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 I buy 400TX all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db1 Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 I should clarify: I buy medium format 400TX all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce_karnopp1 Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 Years ago, I bought a Yashica 124G 6X6 camera. The meter went out a couple of decades ago. But the lens on my camera is superb! The viewing lens is f2.8 and the taking is f 3.5 which makes focusing easy. I have moved to Mamiya 330 because of the ability to have lenses from wide to 250mm. I find 30 sec. agitation a pain. Kodak and Maco recommend it. I have gone to a Chromega system which is continous and with some adjusting, the negatives come out great and the same each time. Also, I am having my students at THe University of Michigan build a timer which will buzz every minute or every 30 seconds for those who develop Ilford or KOdak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 Second that... Tri-X abounds in 120. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank.schifano Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 TX400 is available in 35mm and 120. TX320 is available in 120 and as sheet film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_de_fehr Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 TXP/ID-11/D-76 is a great combo. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations until you have a reason to do otherwise, and then adjust acordingly to get what you want. Enjoy your new toy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 It's not that Tri-X 320 isn't a popular film or is an undesirable film. It's that relatively little data has been published online. So you can help add to that data by publishing your own findings after having experimented with it a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin_hundsnurscher Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Tri-X 320 is a great film. It's actually a favorite. I've been using it over 400TX because it comes in 220. In D-76, which is the same as ID-11, I've been agitating it for 10 seconds in 1 minute intervals. In HC-110, it's 5 seconds every 30 seconds and so far it seems to be a good regimen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexis_neel Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 TXP320 is considered a "professional" film basically since a lot of pros shoot their 400 Tri-X at 320. It has subtle differences but nothing that would cause you to screw it up if you developed it at the times for TXP400. In fact we developed both at the same time in XTol, undiluted, for 8.5 minutes. Alexis www.alexisneel.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artflei Posted November 10, 2004 Author Share Posted November 10, 2004 Thanks everyone, I can't wait for my new camera to be delivered... :) Kevin, what's your development time for 320TXP in D76 with 1 agitation per minute? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin_hundsnurscher Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 I like to use D-76 at 1+1 dilution for 12:45 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artflei Posted November 13, 2004 Author Share Posted November 13, 2004 Thanks! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artflei Posted November 26, 2004 Author Share Posted November 26, 2004 Update: Since my last post in this thread I ran out of ID-11 and, since I wanted to try it for some time anyway, got some Xtol instead. I then developed a roll of 320TXP in Xtol 1+1 for the time recommended by Kodak (11 1/4 minutes) at 20?C, but agitated 10 seconds every minute as I'm used to and not every 30 seconds as suggested by Kodak. I figured it wouldn't hurt going for a little less contrast, as I use a condensor enlarger and also there were some rather contrasty scenes on the film. Anyway, the negatives just turned out really nice. Easy to enlarge with a #2 or #3 filter. I'm stunned by the quality of medium format, hardly any grain, wounderful tones and very impressive sharpness. Maybe I'll scan some of the prints and upload a sample, later. Thanks so much for all you help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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