Help me figure out cause of film scratches

[roger_smith4]

I just got back a roll of HP5 B&W film developed by a local pro lab

and noticed horizontal scratches running through two of the negative

strips. I haven't had this problem before with this camera (I have

had problems with grit that I think was from rotting light seals- I

finally replaced them) and am trying to figure out if I need to get

the camera professionally cleaned (expensive!), or if it is the fault

of the processor. I looked at the film path and really can't see

where these scratches would have come from, as it looks clean. The

camera is a Canonet GIII.

Any advice would be much appreciated!

Thanks,

Roger<div></div>

[tim_hardin]

Roger,

 

I would run another roll of film through the camera before deciding that it needs servicing, although a CLA is a good idea if it has been some time since it was last done.

 

Just run a roll of color or C-41 through the camera, and run it through a one hour place, and your question of the processor can be eliminated

 

Good Luck,

 

TIM

[silent1]

You didn't say if the film was bulk loaded or factory loaded -- the number of scratches suggests something in the cassette felt, which is something that isn't the fault of either the camera or the processor, but will vary from one roll to another, and is much more likely with bulk loaded film (especially when the cassette has been reused a number of times).

[roger_smith4]

Thanks for the replies- I plan to shoot test rolls on this and another camera and develop them at the same time, but still appreciate advice from anyone who has experience with scratches like this.

 

The film was store bought, not bulk-loaded. I don't see how it could have gotten so dirty... The scratches only affected 2 negative strips in the middle of the roll.

[al_kaplan1]

Usually scratches in the emulsion print black. Scratches on the back side of the film print white. I suspect the lab was careless in handling your film. Pro labs ain't what they used to be! You should start processing your own B&W film.

[andy m.]

I don?t mean to hijack the thread, but feel this might be an interesting question have answered, if anybody knows.

 

Assuming the scratches are not on the emulsion side, i.e. the silver image is intact; presumably treating the scratched side could give a much improved print. Is this true, and if so, what is the procedure?

[al_kaplan1]

There used to be, probably still is, stuff called Edwall No-Scratch that came in a little bottle. Probably just as effective is nose grease, a good excuse not to wash your face before going in the darkroom. Wipe your index finger down the side of your nose then rub it gently on the back of the negative. Some people clean the grease off the negative before storing it away, others don't bother.

[andy m.]

I covered a (family) wedding last month and the (pro) lab scratched the first couple of frames on the backside of the film, probably during processing in the minilab. I feel that it was the lab (though have no proof, of course) because I have put many films though the M2 and none I have developed myself have been scratched, even slightly. This has happened once before to me, with a different camera. Again, it was probably the lab.

 

Anyway, one very nice shot from the wedding is affected, and I will be doing the trick that Al mentioned. Hopefully a decent print can be salvaged. Thanks for your help- (again), Al!

 

As a side issue, when using C41 film for critical applications, does anyone use dip and dunk processing as a safer option?

 

By the way Roger, you don't need to process the film to check the camera do you? Why not just run a film through and then unwind and check the surface. This would save the cost of needless processing, where you have no guarantee whether the shots you do take will be scratched or not- Just a thought. A

[andy m.]

BTW, Edwal no-scratch is still available in the USA. $7.95 for 1oz.

A

[__stu_evans]

At least seventeen tracks. If it's not the extra rollers in a QL contraption (the two steel that drive the film toward the take-up cog) then the lab's turn. Perhaps they will offer up excuse 531 or 17a5.

[lex_jenkins]

There are all kinds of things that can go wrong during the handling and processing of film.

 

Mini lab personnel routinely handle film with bare hands and allow the uncut strips of negatives to drag on the floor. Disgusting. I'd hate to think that a so-called pro lab would handle film the same way but it's possible.

[roger_smith4]

Thanks for all of your responses, especially Al!

I cleaned the camera again and paid attention to the QL rollers as per Stu's advice (seem clean, but...) and plan to shoot a test roll tomorrow. Andy, you're right about not needing to develop it, but I'm going to do some print film comparisions tomorrow anyway to get ready for the US Open. If they're scratched it's still useful for comparison purposes.

Best,

Roger

[andy m.]

Good luck. BTW, what are QL rollers?

[james_megargee]

Roger, From experience I can say that if the scratches are straight lines and

do not wave even slightly, it usually means that they were machine caused.

Either in the camera or in a processing machine. If the film were hand

processed then the only times that scratches would happen would be during

loading on to the reels or when hanging to dry and the scrathes would more

than likely be more "wavey" then what seems to appear on your film.

[andy m.]

I have just printed my scratched negative and, thanks to Al's advice, with the use of nose grease, I now have a perfect print with no hint of the horrible scratches!

[roger_smith4]

A coda to my earlier posts- even after cleaning my camera I did run some new and cheap film through it and saw extensive scratching. Oh well. Kiev Camera in Greenwich, CT is willing to fix it for $85. I can't find another place that will touch it, and don't see any CLAed Canonets on Ebay for less.