How do I load 120 film on to a stainless reel?

[gary evans]

I just got back my Yashica Mat 124 TLR from Mark Hama after a very

complete CLA.

 

I shot a test roll of Tri-X and am ready to develop, but I have no

idea what to do with this 120 size film. I have a tank and 120

reel. I tried experimenting with one roll about a week ago, but the

paper backing really kind of threw me off. The film was a lot

easier to load in daylight than 35mm, I found, but that was after I

ripped the paper backing off.

 

I've searched photo.net and the web (on +120 +stainless +reel) and

can't find anything helpful, not like searching for 35mm help.

 

Any advice/tips/pointers/pdf file with well illustrated instructions?

[link]

I haven't done this for years, but you must take off the paper backing before loading

the reel.

[gmc]

You may find some of these helpful.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=009Jfc&unified_p=1

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=009N3e&unified_p=1

 

http://www.photo.net/learn/darkroom/black-and-white-intro

[peter_schauss1]

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=009SXx

[lee_shively]

Yes, take paper backing off the film (in the dark). You can either remove the tape or fold it over the end of the film. Feed it into the clip and carefully start turning. Once properly on the clip and properly aligned on the reel, it goes pretty smoothly. But I've always found 35mm easier to load than 120 film.

[claudia__]

sacrifice a roll and practice both in daylight and in a changing bag or darkroom. make sure the film is straight at the center of the spool and feel for crimping as you wind it on. it just takes practice. once you get the hang of it you will wonder why it seemed so hard at first. just be patient with yourself.

[25asa]

I know this applies for 35mm, but may also for 120. Its been forever since I've loaded one myself, so try it first. Try to slightly cup the film so its slightly narrower then straight across. The once its on the center clip, start turning the film onto the reel until done. Cupping was the secret for me. You'll know something is wrong when you here crunchy sounds like film is touching or so. When cupping just squeeze the edges of the film slightly to do this.

[gary evans]

Done and developed! OK, had a little trouble getting the film in the clip, and the only way I was able to do it was using Al Kaplan's method from a thread whose address was posted above (the single post). Using the tape to add stiffness is the key!

 

But once you get that film fairly centered on the clip, 120 is sooooo much easier than 35mm to load, I think. For me, it probably has to do with the length of the film. I would imagine 220 would be a little tougher.

 

I wish I could post a sample of my little test roll, but alas I don't have the enlarger set up yet, nor do I have a scanner that can handle 120 film. Maybe soon...

[art_haykin]

I learned on the early SS reels that had no clips, and I never used the clip on later reels. In fact, I often ripped them off. It's all in the feel: gently cup the film to give it a slight curl, and be smooth in your motions. The whole trick is to start off straight and be fluid. Rehearse it several times till you get it. Believe me, it'll come. My 2 daughters were loading stainless steel reels of ALL sizes by age 12. It was my habit not to release the outer paper, but let it hang till the end. The added weight gave just the right loading tension, at least for me.

[tad doxsee]

I practiced for a long time out of the bag with my eyes open but I just couldn't get the beginning of the film on straight, until....

 

...I read a post on photo.net that suggested to not use the clip. That was the hint I needed and it's worked for me. Good luck. - Tad

[__stu_evans]

Seldom mentioned is film type. If you 'get' the feel with the relatively stiff Tmax you can be lost with a thin Maco. Just realize there is a significant difference.

[mdanger]

I've never seen it mentioned, but I have a stainless steel "cuff" in both 35mm (which I don't use) and 120mm size. It is about 4" long and is slightly curved with edges that fold over where the film sits. Makes loading 120 onto stainless reels a snap! Of course, it's at least 30 yrs old and I got them from one of my ex's in NYC. There are no markings on them. Mary D.

[al_kaplan1]

I seem to recall that the Kinderman SS reels had a little "crank handle" sticking out of the end of one of the little spirals and they made a stand for turning the reel that incorporated what you call a "cuff" for bending and alligning the film. I always just clipped the crank off with wire cutters and used the reels like all the others.

[phillip_p._dimor]

Look at this as well; <a href="http://www.jobo-usa.com/instructions/instructions_load_reels_ss.htm">Jobo: Loading Stainless Steel Reels/35mm/120</a><br><br>

 

I learned on a Hewes reel but can now load anything, even cheap ones with no clip. Do you have a plastic reel that you use for 35mm?

Some of them are adjustable, allowing you to load 35mm or 120 in it.

I prefer stainless myself after having figured it out.

[al_divenuti]

Having just begun to process 120 film I'd say there are two key differences in loading 120 vs 135 onto a reel:

 

a) For 120 film the hardest part is getting the last few inches of 120 film onto the reel without it buckling while for 135 the first few inches pose the most problems.

 

b) I actually find that the hand guiding the film (i.e. the one not holding the reel) should position the film such that it is being fed upwards at a 45 degree angle to the horizontal of the center of the reel. Moreover, the guiding hand should allow a bit of slack in the film as it feeds it - no tension.

 

I use a fairly inexpensive Kalt reel for 120 film but top-of-the-line Hewes reels for 135 film. This, admittedly, could play a role in my observations.