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Kyiv, Ukraine 2018

:) Sometimes that happens in a lake. Chucky, I mean :) Of course my post was just something to consider. And no photographer should let mine, or anyone else's taste dictate their own!

I am only commenting here as you seemed to ask for advice :) You've done a great job capturing the emotion and time of day here. Well done. But, I think you are showing too much in the frame, from your vantage point. So you might consider a crop as I've done below. Also, your post production editing seems to lack some of the drama that this scene calls for. So I've added a little bit in my example. Please note also, that I wanted to bring out the highlights and contrast of the water ripples on the far side of the lake, but, unfortunately, you've done something in your post processing that has clipped the detail out of this area of the image, and then darkened this part of the lake into a flat, gray, mass. You might want to take another stab from your original file in Photoshop and see if you can bring out this detail. In general, you've shown your abilities as a photographer, now it's time to take your Photoshop skills to the next level. To paraphrase Ansel Adams, "The capture is the score, Photoshop is the performance".

Iphone panorama gone wrong...

Kievsky Station, Moscow (panorama)

8 Tips For Shooting Modern Super 8 #2 The 85 Filter Yes, old super 8 cameras were designed to use tungsten balanced film. If you use daylight film, and set your switch to "sun/daylight" you will have a very orange result. So, set the filter to "lightbulb/tungsten". Be warned that this might also effect the auto exposure as the camera might assume ISO corrections depending upon whether the filter is in place or not. The built in 85 / orange filter cuts exposure 2/3 of one stop. So, you might need to make some adjustment of the ISO setting, if the camera allows manual ISO setting. Or, it could set the ISO according the the film cartridge inserted. Testing is in order before you take this camera on your trip. You might be safer to buy tungsten balanced film and shoot with the orange 85 filter in place when shooting in daylight, as the camera was designed. This also has the advantage of allowing filming in tungsten light if the situation arises.

Thanks David!!!! I really wanted a Mamiya 7, but alas they are too expensive for me! Yes, the focus thing is more difficult when one uses a wide aperture to keep the shutter at 1/500sec :) Digital cameras are much better at high ISO ratings, so I tend to use that for hand held street photography, but not always. I do like the imperfection of 35mm film sometimes. And I do use a Kodak Retina IIIc which is also very small when folded up.

The original poster, Ed, was interested in the color or warm/cool attributes of the lenses. And in that regard, all are easily adjusted in image color correction. The other attributes that you mention Ruslan, are different, and not really a subject of color correction and should be considered. But that's not what Ed was testing.

I have a Fuji GW690III and a GSW690II. When I began with the Fuji cameras, digital cameras were only 3mpx... I scan with a Nikon LS-8000 scanner. I originally thought that hand holding would be easy, but then I began to see the difference between tripod and handheld, I realized that many of the hand held images had no more detail than 35mm images. Sure, the grain was less, but not the detail. Mostly due to camera shake, but also focusing on the fly can be a little bit off as well. I print to about 17 x 22 inches and the difference is easily seen. For display on screens, 35mm is fine of course. For me, it makes no sense to shoot 6x9 film at $3/frame only to scan it on a flat bed and view it online. For handheld work, I choose 35mm film or my Canon 5ds, which I can shoot at much higher shutter speeds. If anyone is in Los Angeles in October, I'm having a gallery show where you can see some of these images :) The show opening reception on October 26 and I'd love to see you there! Comrade Photographer by Bruce Alan Greene | The Perfect Exposure Gallery | Artsy www.brucealangreene.com

I have a Fuji 6x9 rangefinder that is perfectly hand holdable. But... even at the maximum 1/500sec shutter speed, camera shake lowers the detail in the photograph significantly. And at $3/exposure, if I want handheld film, it's 35mm for me. To really see the advantage of medium format film, one needs to use a tripod and get a very good scan from my experience.

It could be the scanner, the mounting of the slides, or the compression. Ask the lab to re-scan to an uncompressed format for a start (.tif). If that doesn't help, and the film has not been in a glass holder, then it's the scanner. Or... get a very good loupe and a bright backlight and check the slides themselves. Maybe it's the film processing?

Unless you desire a matched set of lenses (for video for example), the color rendition of the lens is pretty irrelevant if you color correct your images in Lightroom or Photoshop. I would consider testing other aspects of the lens performance rather than color as that's very easily corrected.

At 10 stops ND and a digital camera, I would look for a filter that also filters IR to avoid IR contamination of the image as digital sensors will be fogged by IR with a filter that only stops visible light. I would buy a good one that has minimal color shifting as many of these heavy IRND filters shift colors quite a bit. I have used a 6 stop version from this company and was very impressed with the results: ND Buying Guide

I've taken many night cityscapes with my Fuji 6x9 rangefinders and I use a Pentax Digital Spot meter. Yes, a spot meter would be the best choice because you are shooting high contrast scenes from far away. If you use a "wide angle" meter, you will likely overexpose. You might want to try a phone app lightmeter such as: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/lux-professional-light-meter-for-film-photography/id926139057?mt=8 I'm not sure if it will be sensitive enough for night cityscapes, but maybe worth a try!

My favorite meter is the Pentax Digital Spot meter. But it sells for about $300 used these days. But, maybe you should just start out by getting a light meter app for your phone. I don't know the best ones, but I'm sure it will get you started quickly with your Hasselblad!

<p>I have a MacBook Retina 2013 (late) with a glossy screen. As laptops go, it's quite good for photography. I find the glossy screen helpful. Matte screens just scatter reflections, but they are still there.<br> My screen is calibrated using iOne Display and it works well for photography. Not quite as nice as my Eizo display, but quite useable on the road. Viewing angle is good enough with the IPS display.<br> And, Apple has been good about fixing problems, at no charge. They replaced my screen last summer as the anti glare coating began flaking off. Out of warrantee. Good luck with that from most windows companies...<br> But, if I wanted, I could just run Windows on the Mac, so don't discount entirely this choice.</p>

<p>Thanks David, I may design a special version for tablets. I already have a special version for phones.</p>

<p>Thanks guys.<br> Ellis: I'm in the movie business. I was trying to make clear that these are not work related photos. But your point is well taken. Maybe I'll remove that entirely.<br> Marc: While that's true, if scrolling is necessary on one's device, having the menu on top would mean scrolling for every image. In my view, it's better to scroll once. BTW, what device were you viewing on? It's good to know what works as well as what does not.</p>

<p>Photo.neters!<br /> I've recently updated my website to include a photography page. I'm interested in comments about how it works on your device. (or any other comments if you'd like). I've built the site using Adobe MUSE, as I already subscribe to all the Adobe apps.</p> <p>http://www.brucealangreene.com/photography.html</p> <p>Here's a screenshot of my MacBook, which looks like I've intended. If it doesn't look like this, please let me know, and say what device you're browsing on. Thanks!</p> <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18338715-lg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="937" /></p>

iPhone 5 panorama<div></div>

Why not calibrate to native and set your working space in photoshop to sRGB?

<p>looks like... the film was exposed in the camera, and then, before rewinding, the back was opened.<br> The photographer said: "$%*(&&" !!!!<br> and then quickly closed the back, rewound the film, sent it to the lab, and, here we are.</p> <p>Or, John is correct...</p>

<p>I have the classic 1.4 50mm. You should be warned that the auto focus on this lens is quiet, but not rugged. It can easily fail. When it fails, you can not manually focus either. Pressure on the lens barrel can also lead to focus sticking. So pack this lens carefully.<br> I think there is a new version now, but of course, it would be quite a bit more expensive than the "classic" version. But one auto focus repair, and ... maybe you've paid for the new version?<br> Also be warned that f1.4, especially with this lens, is a "look", not just more exposure than 1.8. It's rather hazy with sharp focus only in the center when set to f1.4. A dreamy look if you will, but not really like f2.8 with more exposure. As to the focus scale? Never used it. But I do have a manual focus ground glass in my 5D classic!</p>