Which of these 4 developers is best with 35mm APX-100

[lesged]

I?ve searched previous posts re recommendation for developers used

with Agfa APX-100, but would like to hear which of the 4 devs I use,

you would recommend. I bought 100' of 35mm APX-100 and am ready to

shoot and soup first roll. Which of the developers I have, would

you recommend? I'd like to know the EI you use, temperature of bath ,

dilution, how long do you soup film and what is your agitation

regime. If you used all four, please prioritize the developers and

place in disending order "Best," "OK," and "So-so" or "N.G."

 

Haven?t used 35mm b&w Agfa film in decades and don?t have a feel for

new emulsions. My battery of developers are: D-76, Xtol, FG7 and home

brewed Neofin Blue.

 

TIA, Les

[zensphoto]

I personally use Kodak HC-110 and D76 on Agfa APX-100 for developing negatives. For printing everything goes on Kodak Poly RC III paper or Fiber Paper and I use Dektol paper developer. I usually pull APX-100 to 50ISO when I shoot it, but that is just what I like to do with it.

 

Have a great day !

[michael_goldfarb]

I got lots of great results with APX 100 in D-76 1:1 a few years back. But I used shorter development than the published times: 9 min at 68 with agitation at 1-min intervals. Nice medium negs, perfect for a condensor enlarger. APX 100 is a *beautiful* film!

[tim obrien]

Well Lester, I wouldn't git too fond of APX100, it'll break yer everlovin heart when Agfa trashes the rest of it's film business.

 

That said, I would suspect the Xtol would give wonderful negatives, but I haven't tried it.

 

My choices for APX100 are W2D2+ then Rodinal 1+50. Both work amazing well with this emulsion. Total tonality is how I describe it, as well as being an extremely sharp, medium grain film. It is something special.

 

BTW - The guy who owns the Vietnamese restaurant down the street is named N.G. any relation?

 

tim in san jose

[db1]

My personal favorite is xtol 1+1 and then rodinal 1+50. can't really go wrong with either one.

[jimvanson]

Why have yo not considered Rodinal @ 1+100? Sharpness will be very good, tonality -- superb. Grain will be slightly more noticeable then some other developers but it will be beautiful grain.<P>Buy a bottle: it's real cheap and lasts for years.

[titrisol]

APX 100 is very versatile, Try it with FG-7, D-76, Xtol and your home brew in that order and decide which one you like best

 

I personally rpefer Rodinal, but FG7 gives a very nice gradation

[joe_dahlgren]

I like this film and have used it for many years. In 35, and 120 I get excellent results, however for some reason have not been able to duplicate that on 4X5.

My 4 favorite developers for Agfa 100, in order, are:

 

1. Rodinal-1:50 @68d, 17 minutes, agitate for 1 min-then 5 sec out of every 30 seconds. EI 100. I don't think you can go wrong with this combo, great developer, beautful results, it's cheap, it lasts forever, and easy to work with. You can also use Rodinal-1:100 @68d for 20 minutes.

(I have had great results using P.Gainer's; 1 teaspoon of Sodium Ascorbate per liter, at 1:50 for 8 minutes.)

 

2. WD2D+ 1:1:50 @68d, 9 minutes, agitate 30 seconds then for 15 seconds out of every 30 seconds. EI 80. I think it works well for those beach shots around noon. Makes those kind of negs very easy to print. Also sharp.

 

3. Xtol 1:3 @68d, 17 minutes, agitate 30 seconds-then every 30 seconds thereafter. EI 100. I really like this developer, very sharp results, however I have had some problems in the past with it going bad after my letting it sit around too long. I only use it now when I have enough film exposed to use it up. Works very well with TMX, TMY, and TMZ.

 

4. D76 1:1 @68d, 12 minutes, same agitation as Rodinal. EI 100. Also very good.

 

I would like to hear more about the coffee developers if anyone is doing that.

[jeff_drew4]

Of your list, I have only used D76 with APX100 at ISO100. Generally I prefer Rodinal with APX100, but D76 works.

[titrisol]

I tried APX 100 with Caffenol (make a search in photo.net for recipe)

 

I didn;t have good results, and since I ran out of it haven't tried to duplicate the experiment.

[aeiffel]

Only souped it in Rodinal 1:100. On the top of my head dev time was around 18-20mn for an approximate EI of 80.<br>

I was very pleased with the results - good sharpness and unique tonality - but your taste may be different.

[jay_de_fehr]

Hi Lester.

 

D-76 and Xtol are of the same class of developers, with Xtol being superior in every measurable way, so I'd throw D-76 out of contention immediately. FG7 and Neofin are both acutance developers, best suited to slow, fine grained film, so unless you're looking for grain, I'd disqualify them as well, which leaves Xtol. Try it 1:1 for 7 min. @ 70F. Continuous inversion agitation for the first minute, followed by 10 sec/min for the remainder of development. Supersmooth/supersharp.

[titrisol]

I'm a fan of APX100 and I'll enjoy it while I can. Why shouldn't othe guys?

 

I'm not sure yet AGFA will quit film but if they do it'll be another beautiful film gone to the can.

 

>>>Tim O'Brien , jul 30, 2004; 02:07 p.m.

Well Lester, I wouldn't git too fond of APX100, it'll break yer everlovin heart when Agfa trashes the rest of it's film business.

[lex_jenkins]

I've had good results on APX 100 with Ilfosol-S and Rodinal. I plan to try Neofin Blue because it delivered such great results with Efke R100.

[andre_noble4]

It depends on the contrast of the light under which you are shooting.

 

Under low to moderate contrast, I have found APX 100 works extremely well in Rodinal 1:50 with ASA appx 40 or 50.

 

Under high contrast, outdoor direct sunlight conditions,use the pyro developers WD2D+ or Pryocat HD with ASA 32.

 

Both of these developers were mentioned above.

[lesged]

Thanks all for sharing your processing experience with APX 100 and your specific recommendations. I started to make a list of your top choices of developers with APX100 and realized very quickly that Rodinal wins hands down--one not on my current developers. But should be!

 

I last used Rodinal in 2001 in Florence where I sold 10 photographs taken there in late 50s which are now postcards sold at airport, train stations and tourist kiosks. I souped all negs taken during my 2 week stayed with my old friend Maurizio(my ex boss) and his wife Gianna. He had stopped processing negs long ago, but still had a bottle of Rodinal that was half full and very old. He convinced me I should try it, that it was still good-- and it was.

 

Before working in Italy for 2 years in the 50s, I was introduced to Rodinal by a Bulgarian photographer/chemist friend who mixed his own Rodinal. His prints really impressed me and he got me interested in making my own developers. D-23 was my first attempt and I liked the results. It was in Italy that I learned about Beutler's variation of Neofin Blue that has the same two chems as D-23 (metol and sodium sulfite)in its Solution A. Solution B has only sodium carbonate. I tried making my own Rodinal, but gave it up as beyond my chemistry ken.Guess I better buy some Rodinal pronto. I like the grain it produces.

 

Just for fun, I'll show one of the postcards which was made from an Isopan F negative, APX100's ancestor. It was developed in D76 straight. I suggested one title in Italian, but the editor changed it only to use the location name of square. Take a peek! They sure did.

 

BTW, Lex, what time, temp, dilution and agitation did you use for Efke R100 with Neofin Blue that you liked so much? Have you used Efke's 35 mm KB14 with N.B.? If so, did it vary in processing from souping roll film. I, too. have an old Rollei (E2 3.5 Planar) and would like to try R100.

 

Thanks a zillion for all your help.

 

Les<div></div>

[severi_salminen]

Jay De Fehr: "D-76 and Xtol are of the same class of developers"

 

I think they are not the same calss of developers. D-76 is a metol based developer and XTOL is based on ascorbic acid. A big difference there and also in the characteristics.

[bob haight]

Rodinal 1/50 or 1/100 look great. But, Agfa may abandon the film industry and you may want to support a company which intends to continue on in film.

[jim_appleyard]

I was recently given one of those old bottles of Rodinal; glass with rubber stopper. It's quite dark and has a quite a bit of sediment on the bottom, but the stuff still works. Any guesses as to how old it is?

[lex_jenkins]

Les, unfortunately I had a rare slip and forgot to note the specifics for Efke R100 in Neofin Blue. If I study the info sheets supplied by Tetenal again I can probably figure out how I came up with a time that worked very well the first time.

 

Also unfortunately, the last time I developed Efke R100 in Neofin Blue I tried continuous agitation. I should have known better. The negs were far too dense, even using what I thought was an appropriate time.