andy_sprauer Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 I need to process a bunch of Tri-X shot at ASA400. What dilution & time would give me fantastic negs with the developer at 68 degrees with agitations 5 secs every 30 seconds? Remember - I shot these at 400ASA - all the stuff I'm reading was shot on this post has been more around 200ASA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardMiller Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Have you tried <a href="http://teachnet.edb.utexas.edu/~leica/hc110.html">Greg Mironchuk's site</A> or <a href="http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/">Michael Covington's HC-110 site</A>? Lots of great information in both places. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ann_clancy3 Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 try one roll at 6:30 minutes and adjust if need be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy_sprauer Posted January 8, 2005 Author Share Posted January 8, 2005 Ann - what dilution? I think you previously said in other posts 6 minutes when you shot at 200ASA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_gage Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Andy! You already got plenty of good answers in this post- http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00AgOo If you're dead set against some basic testing to find what times work for you then just go the kodak website and use their published time. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy_sprauer Posted January 8, 2005 Author Share Posted January 8, 2005 everyone says there wrong! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff_drew4 Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Andy,<p>No, not "everyone".IMHO, Kodak publishes generally good and accurate information about their films and chemistry. At the very least, it gets the processor to average/good results if the directions are followed consistently (RTFM). If you want "fantastic" negs, then the "fantastic" part is up to you! Testing, testing, practice, practice, and be critical of your work. There is a tremendous amount of empirical information on this forum about this combination of film & developer, and it's a good combo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartMoxham Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Just try Dil B 6min 30sec at 20deg C and go on from there. It will be a good starting point and you can adjust for the next rolls if you need more contrast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_hoyt Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Andy, Dilution B, 1 part concentrate + 31 parts water, is the usual dilution for Tri-X. Read the suggested web sites and select a developing time, develop a roll, contact print the roll and make developing time adjustments according to how you read the contrast of the negatives. None of the suggested developing times will ruin your negatives, all should be in the ball park. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartMoxham Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Andy just in case you are wondering why every one says different times it is really because everyone has a personal taste for how they like their negs to look and water supplies and techniques vary. But anywhere from 6-7 min will work no problem. 7 min will be more contrasty than 6 min. Some people like less time some like more to be honest it is not that critical. I find that If my negs are too contrasty by 1 paper grade the about 20-25% less development will drop me 1 paper grade and about the same to go up a grade. If you get negs that print on grade 2-3 paper with the occasional really contrasty negs needing grade 1 then you are really close enough. If you need to print every thing on grade 4-5 then you could use more development if you print everything on grade 0-1 paper then you could use less development. As time goes by you will tweak your development time to suit your own taste and needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel_smith6 Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 "everyone says there wrong!" There are a Billion Chinese and at least 400 Frenchmen who have never said that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim kerr Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Andy, it's been my experience that if the photographer really exposes Tri-X at iso 400, then uses a diffusion enlarger to print with,Kodak's times will be right. The main problem is that ever so many people just are sure their cameras averaging meter are always right, I assure you that is not the case. Now the newer cameras that have matrix,multi-segment, or some such named metering system will give a lot more accurate exposures per roll, but they are not right 100% of the times. Isn't this just a nice can of worms to get into this thread?....Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aoresteen Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 Andy, Stuart Moxham , jan 08, 2005; 01:03 p.m.Just try Dil B 6min 30sec at 20deg C and go on from there. It will be a good starting point and you can adjust for the next rolls if you need more contrast. Stuart got it right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jose_pg Posted January 27, 2005 Share Posted January 27, 2005 The recommendations of the film says it should be developed dilution B at 20 centigrade degrees for 3.45 seconds. Some of you are recommending dilution B developing for even 6 minutes. There's a difference with the recommendations of more than two minutes. Wouldn't it result into a hard overdevelopment?. Please be so kind to explain it to me. Please refer other possibilities as for the dilution. What about 1+61 or others? and, how long? (8 minutes for instance) thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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