Pyrocat HD in Jobo 25xx Drums

[jim_landecker]

Hi,

 

I recently tried self-mixed Pyrocat for the first time, developing

4x5" film using a CPE-2 and 2521 drum with 2509n reel. The films I

tried were Classic 200, Delta 100 and HP5+. I'm pretty happy with

the results and all the negatives, which were of a contrasty scene,

print easily and are very sharp. But....all of the Classic 200

negatives, and to a lesser degree the Ilford films (although I

haven't processed enough for this to be absolutely conclusive), show

density streaks near the edges of the film that sit in the grooves

of the reel. Putting the film back into the reel I can see that

indeed where streaks are worst, the film is sitting close to the

concentric bar of the reel. This effect is probably why Jobo

recommends the high speed setting for film development (which I

normally use and have had even development), but is unfortunately

contrary to Sandy King's recommendation of low speed to avoid

oxidation and general stain. So far I am considering trying the

following solutions:<p>

 

a. add some sodium sulfite as suggested by Sandy King, and try the

high speed rotation.<p>

b. only use the Ilford films, which seem less prone to the

problem.<p>

c. try developing on a CPA which can be set for "in-between" speeds

and see if a slightly higher speed will get rid of the streaks

without causing oxidation and stain problems.<p>

d. leave enough space around the edges for cropping.<p>

e. don't use Pyrocat with sheet film.<p>

<p>

I'll try option (a) first, as I would like to keep using the Pyrocat

and the Classic 200, which I like a lot. Have any others with the

same setup seen and found a way to minimize this problem?<P>

<p>

Thanks for any insights,<P>

<P>

Jim

[arne_strasser]

My setup wasn't quite like yours (120 film) but I had streaks on the sides of the first negative processed in Pyrocat-HD with jobo-drums, too.

I had made the A-solution without EDTA and had diluted it in tap-water - Our water contains lots of calcium.

I then added EDTA to the A-solution and only used destilled water for both pre-wash and diluting the developer. I have never seen any streaks, traces of uneven development or such on my negatives since then.

 

It's just something you might try- unless someone has a better answer.

 

Arne

[jim_landecker]

Arne,<P>

 

Which formula were you using, as the one on unblinkingeye.com has no EDTA?<P>

 

BTW, I was also using distilled water and a presoak, except the first set of negatives where I forgot, but the lack of presoak didn't affect the streaking at all.<P>

 

Thanks,<P>

 

Jim

[peter_witkop]

I use a cpe-2 with the same drums with pyrocat-hd from photographers formulary, with fp4+. So far haven't found any problems with streaking, or density build up near the edges. My cpe-2 only has one speed though 75 rpm, well two if you count 0 rpm. In Sandy King's article on unblinkingeye.com, he gives two solutions for using pyrocat at high rotation speeds, adding sodium silfite, or simply using more solution. I do the latter, useing 400ml, and haven't had any problems with streaking or high levels of general fog.

 

Peter

[discpad]

The problem is the 2509 film holder in a 25xx drum: Use a CPP with a 3010 or 3005 drum and your problems will vanish...

[jim_landecker]

Peter,

 

Thanks, that's good to hear - I'll try the additional 30% of solution A at high speed.

 

Jim

[rowland_mowrey]

See the article in this months Photo Technique about Pyrogallol. Page 11.

 

Nuff said.

 

Ron Mowrey

[henry_a]

The reels you are using will give increased edge density with any film or process. Jobo tells about this in the instructions I think. It just does not show up in most scenes. I've done C41 4X5 this way and could vaguely see it on product shots on white background but it was not a problem for me as I was leaving plenty of room around the edges. I have run D100, FP4 and HP5 in Xtol in these reels and don't see it at all. But I think if I shot a blank wall I might.

 

How much working solution are you using? I'd suggest you use as much as the CPE2 will turn. I use a Unicolor motor base that lets me use as much developer as I want.

 

Alternately, don't use rotary but use the Jobo drum for manual agitation. If you have the larger drum that holds 2 reels you can put in 1.5 liters of developer and only one film reel and then turn it over gently every minute or two to agitate. I've been agitating every other minute with HP5 for 16 minutes and I'm pleased with the results - three minute pre-soak, Pyrocat HD 1:1:100, 70 degrees, HP5 at 320, water stop then fix. The one roll drum is worthless for this as it is actually shorter than the reel and by the time you cover the film the tank is too full.

 

My reasons for this minimal agitation scheme are: slightly higher film speed, some compensation (seems to slow development in the highlights a bit but I have no proof), ease of use compared to trays, ease of washing, no handling of film until its done and ready to hang.

 

I bet our Classic 200 will like this treatment.