what type of filter to use indoors

Discussion in 'Film and Processing' started by jr stevens, Nov 24, 2009.

  1. Hi there, i am very inexperienced when it comes to using film having just bought a used f100 and a hundred rolls of Kodak uktracolour 400UC. When I am using it indoors do i need to use any special type of filter , either when using flash or not using flash? thanks in advance!
  2. If you use a filter indoors it would likely be a color correcting filter. The filter you choose would depend entirely on what kind of light you're shooting in.
    If it's primarily incandescent, using a blue filter (80A or 80C) would be a good choice if you're not using the flash. The 80A is stronger and will rob you of more light.
    If you're shooting with a flash, you would either not use any filter and rely on the flash to brighten your subjects or you would gel the flash to match the ambient light of the room and then use a corrective color filter on the lens. If the ambient light were all incandescent, then a warming gel on the flash and an 80A or 80C on the lens.
  3. Incandescent light requires a blue filter (something like 80A + 82B). Fluorescent light requires a different filter. You can shop the usual places and find more info on these.
    Incandescent light can also be corrected by using tungsten film.
    But if you're going to scan the film, I would suggest skipping the filters and adjusting the color post processing.
  4. I've had pretty good luck removing the green cast from fluorescent lighting in post processing. In Photoshop elements you can use the "Remove Color Cast" function to remove the green cast. Simply click on something in the scan that should be white and you'll see a big difference. Removing the orange cast of incandescent lighting is a little less successful, but much better than nothing at all. If you use a filter, remember that you will be losing 1 or 2 stops of light depending on the filter, which will make existing light photography more difficult due to slower shutter speeds and shallower depth of field because of the large aperture. If you can use bounce flash (the ceiling are low and white), then I would recommend a nice flash unit such as a Nikon SB-25 or SB-26. Your F100 is capable of great flash performance when used with a good flash unit.
  5. Wratten 80A.
  6. If you get into using filters to correct with color for that film, it will be as though the film has a lower film speed; this is slightly different than regular filter factor correction; close, but it's based on the idea of "spectral sensitivity"; that is, different colors of light help the film to react at a different rate. As a practical matter, it'll be close to a filter factor.
    Look at the charts on the bottom of page one, and on part of page two (of the tech pub, link below), if you use that type of film with something other than daylight or electronic flash. The charts tell you how to dial in the adjustments so that the film will give you a picture that will look like it counteracts the coloring and sensitivity problems related to having a light source other than daylight or flash.
    It's easier to do that it might sound; just look at your situation, consult the chart, and then dial that info in to the camera or metering so that you can come up with photos that look good later.
    What the right answer is for the adjustments and the filters will have to do with the specifics of the situation.
    The tech pub for that film: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/e4035/e4035.pdf
    When you get a film, do a quick internet search for that kind; when you get over to the website of the manufacturer's website, they'll usually have those data sheets. If you pick and choose the info off of the data sheet, it'll be easier for you to match up what you need. A bunch of the right answers depend on the situation you're making the photo in.

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