Leica DRP No 295294

Discussion in 'Leica and Rangefinders' started by gayle_sidwell, Oct 19, 2014.

  1. I acquired this Lecia DrP No 295294 with Summar f=5cm1:2 No 367024 lens. Camera an lens appear to be slightly used. It is in a leather case which is in great condition. What do I have and what is it worth? I have no clue.
    Thanks for any information you may have. I have pics which I can upload.
  2. A set of pictures would help. If it is real and not a tarted up zorki or kiev ...it is a 1938 IIIa. One of the most common Leica screw mount cameras. The prewar IIIa and IIIc are great shooters if working. The Summar has very soft front glass!! The lens can be a good user if the front glass has not been abused. If the lens is uncoated you really need a shade. You should have lots of fun with your 'new' leica.
  3. https://www.flickr.com/photos/128841104@N08/
  4. SCL


    Gayle - the lens, from your one photo of it, appears to be in bad optical shape. It is difficult from the pic to tell if it is scratches, cleaning marks, just haze, or worse yet internal fungus. In any case, even if it is just dirt & grime, it will probably need a CLA (cleaning, lube & adjustment) to get the focusing mechanisms and diaphragm smooth. If it can be properly cleaned by a professional and possibly repolished, it should be a reasonably good user, given its vintage.
  5. Thanks so much for the information. Any idea what it could be worth if I have the CLA completed on this camera? I am interested in selling it. Thanks again!
  6. If you want to sell it, sell it as it is.
    You will never recover the cost of the service. If it is a well known Leica repair technician such as Don Goldberg, Sherri Krauter or Gus Lazzari, you will get more money for the camera than if you left it alone. However, it is doubtful that you will get enough to cover the cost of the service (which will run about $250 - 300 for the camera alone).
    If you use an unknown repair person (i.e. cheap), it will be viewed as being WORSE than having no repair. Too many of us here have been burned by so called "repairs" that actually made things worse, and then cost more to have corrected.
    Also, potential buyers are likely to have their own favorite service person whom they would want to use for the service. They WILL factor in the future repair cost when they give you an offer.
  7. As for potential value, you need to show all sides of the camera without the case. Most buyers will value the case at $0 because the leather is old, and the strap is liable to break at any time. What will count is the intactness of the black rubber covering on the camera body, and the condition of the metal. Dents, scratches, and people's names or SSN engraved on the camera will devalue it. You have sizable scuffing on the top plate of the camera, near the rewind knob, for example.
    Also, the condition of the shutter curtains, and brightness of the rangefinder image all go into estimating what needs to be replaced.
    As for the lens, haze can be cleaned off. Scratches on the front glass, or etching by fungus is permanent. Any of these latter ailments may make the lens worthless.
    My suggestion is that you look up completed ebay sales to see what the potential sales price could be. If you want an estimate of the condition, you could send it to one of the repair persons I mentioned above. They should be able to tell you what needs to be done, and how much it is likely to cost. I think Gus Lazzari has a fixed $250 price for overhauling thread mount Leica cameras.
  8. That is unfortunately common condition for a Summar lens. The front glass is what in optics is known as "flint glass", and in art glass is known as "lead crystal". It's very soft, and very easy to scratch up when cleaning the glass in the wrong way. The majority of Summar lenses look like that now, in that shape it's a $50 lens.
    The camera is a real Leica IIIa. Typical used condition. With no CLA, probably around $100 to $150.
  9. With any luck it is only the front element of the lens which is badly damaged. They come from someone having tried to 'clean' what they thought was 'dirty' lens with something like a pocket handkerchief, only it got 'dirtier' so they scrubbed harder. Sometimes they can be polished by a technician if scratches are not too deep
  10. Gayle, your photo of the top of the camera shows that the advance/rewind lever--the little lever in front of the shutter button--is in the rewind position and could be damaged if it is left sticking out that way. It would be best to turn it back to the "A" setting.
    As others have suggested, ebay will be your best guide for current prices. Search Cameras & Camcorders > Film Photography > Film Cameras for "Leica IIIa Summar." But don't look in the current listings; instead, go to the column on the left and find "Show Only," then click on "Sold listings." That will give you actual prices that have been paid for similar cameras recently. Read the listings to separate out those that were sold without being CLAd or at least film tested and you should get an idea of the range of prices that would be reasonable for yours.
  11. I wish to address Polish & Re-coat of the Summar lenses in particular.
    The front element is fused into the front name-plate lens holder (backside metal is reamed at the glass edges - See provided image). Because proper polishing and re-coating must be performed to the naked glass, one must mill away the "ream" in order to separate the glass from the front metal ring. In addition to the expense of P&R stages, this entire process is very hazardous to this "early" soft glass.
    As previously stated, not only for ROI (return on investment) and favorite technician concerns, it's best to not touch anything (especially due to poor cleaning technique possibilities of this front element) and sell the items individually, as-is...
    Finally, thanks to Robert L., your comments are much appreciated.
  12. Besides the difficulties to remove the front lens element, I have doubt whether re-polishing is possible at reasonable costs.
    Re-polishing a lens does NOT mean just wiping the surface with some polish until it is shiny again. The lens surface must be polished to the proper radius (curvature) with a precision of down to 1/1000mm or less. This is only possible with suitable machines and tools. During the production process, there are tolerances in curvature. If the curvature is slightly different, the whole lens must be adjusted properly - in case this is possible, some lens manufacturers sort out the elements with certain tolerances and match them to get best performance.
    Re-coating is much easier but, as mentioned, always needs disassembly of the lens and separation of glued lens elements.
  13. collectiblend.com for pricing

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