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IR flash photography


kaiyen

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<p>All,

 

<p>Sorry if this shouldn't be in this forum. HIE is BW though...

 

<p>So I just got a book - Infra-Red Photography, A complete

Workshop - in hopes that, among other things, it would have

infmormation on how to do IR flash photography. I thought it would

be fun to try.

 

<p>I found <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?

msg_id=001Edc">this thread</a> from 2001. In it, the common

recommendation of using unexposed, developed E6 film as an IR filter

is made. Then, towards the end, a comment is made that E6 film

isn't a very good IR filter at all, and that I should get some plexi

for it.

 

<p>So...my questions are:

 

<p>1 - any further comments on the effectiveness of E6 film as a

filter? <br>

2 - What is the best way to attach this without burning the filter?

I'm currently using a Nikon SB-28. Should I build some kind of dome-

type thing? Maybe I should get something with an external filter

attachment, like a Vivitar 283 or 285?<br>

3 - or should I just go ahead and get the plexiglass? :-)

 

<p>thanks.<br>

allan

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No need to spend the big bucks on plexiglass. B&H carries Lee 3x3 polyester #87 infrared filters for $13.95. This is a 3 inch square of

plastic that can easily be cut to a custom shape with ordinary

scissors. You can tape it over the flash head. I prefer to

wedge it behind a Sto-fen Omnibounce, which holds it in place

without the need for sticky gooey tape.

<p>

I confess that I haven't used it with infrared film. My purpose

in using it is to trigger slave flashes. The IR filter blocks

all visible light from my on-camera flash, but the infrared light

that escapes is sufficient to trigger slaved studio lights.

<p>

One day I'll play with some HIE, I guess.

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B&W IR issues belong here, Allan, no need to apologize. Ignore my noisy outburst about misplaced threads. Sometimes I just need to rant.

 

I've never heard of using unexposed E6 film as an IR filter. It might be worth experimenting with but I wouldn't risk an entire roll on it. Maybe shoot a few frames and do a clip test.

 

The best method I've heard of is attaching a purpose-built IR filter to the flash. Not sure where these can be bought but a search of the archives should turn up some previous discussions. I seem to recall this being discussed fairly recently either here or on the generic "Film and Processing" forum.

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Seems like from what I remember reading of the E6 film filter idea, it worked okay, but the IR is reduced condsiderably over a regular IR filter. I'd vote for the Lee filters, but haven't tried them, either. Last time I checked (several months back), B&H had them listed, but shown as out of stock, too.

 

Firing a flash through my regular #87 filter, it is very visible, although not bright. So, it might not be obtrusive, but it isn't invisible like you might expect either. I assume some of the darker filters would be more invisible.

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Okay. I gotta go look up the filtration ranges of these IR filters again. For some reason I always get them confused. Maybe something more opaque would be better. I am not trying nec. for the "weegee-in-the-theatre" kind of sneakiness, but if it's a side-benefit, I might as well go for the invisible-ish flash.

 

Can I just put one of those gelatin filters over my flash head, or will it burn through?

 

allan

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An electronic flash should tolerate a little heat build up from being filtered, but it's a good idea to let it cool down periodically.

 

I don't use colored filters on my flashes but I do often use diffusers. Even those can trap heat, potentially damaging the flash. I once overheated a flash 'til it literally popped like a tiny firecracker and started smoking (the 100°F+ Florida heat probably didn't help). How often and long I allow cool downs depends on whether I'm using full pops or partial.

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Been there, done that, though it was back in high school many years ago. I wanted to do candids at parties, so I used black photo tape to attach a #87 Wratten filter over my Vivitar 285 (the old one, I think). The flash is visible as a red glow if you look directly at it, but otherwise unobtrusive. HIE or whatever IR film Kodak sold back in 1971/2. It worked really well, if you don't mind the tonal values of IR! Heating is no problem at reasonable duty cycles, but each pop does warm the filter up.
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