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How do I use this tank?


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The film roll is loaded into the large portion in complete darkness and fed through a slit into the smaller portion. Usually there is a light trap between large and small which is closed to load the cartridge.. The cartridge is placed in the small portion and the film taped in place, the cartridge snapped shut. The small portion is closed, the light trap opened, and the crank turned a specified number of timed to fill the cartridge. The light trap is closed again, the small portion opened, the cartridge cut free. I am not familiar with this particular model, I have two more common types. Unless you can find instructions, I would look for a more common AKA newer one.
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A bit of unsought history – Thomas Edison invented a primitive motion picture system that evolved in to a gigantic industry. Edison bargained with Kodak for film. Kodak’s Brownie used 70mm wide roll film make at the Kodak factory. Edison negotiated and the 70mm rolls were slit down the middle making long rolls 35mm wide. Further the edges of the film punched making sprocket holes to assist transport of film in the camera and the projector. The motion picture industry flourished and long rolls of 35mm became plentiful. Thus the need to safely load long rolls into cassettes for the 35mm still camera.
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It's definitely a loader for rolling your own cassettes -

The instructions should help:

l.jpg.bb4265213aa3bf55070628870fc22e97.jpg

There are a bunch of YouTube instructions such as LINK

if that one is lousy, there are lots more.

such as LINK for people who prefer to read.

 

Just for the "fun" of it in these times of plague, I'll shortly post some jpgs of the instructions for the Watson film loader (one of the more common ones).

 

In the meantime, dowload a pdf of Albert Camus' The Plague (1948) for you to read. LINK

 

Of course, I feel like alan that you probably don't want any of this stuff, but I'm trying to keep myself busy, so it's just your tough luck ;)

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repeated but relevant:

My daughter when very young. asked my wife how elevators work.

My wife said "Why don't you ask your father?"

My daughter replied "I don't want to know that much about how elevators work."

 

here are what actual tanks for developing film look like

Nikor-style-developing-tank-steel.jpg.944c52fac5b1c1ba2eddc36de95c2129.jpg Paterson-developing-tank.jpg.2c1168ef7a702eb2ffc755c7bdf986b3.jpg

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repeated but relevant:

My daughter when very young. asked my wife how elevators work.

My wife said "Why don't you ask your father?"

My daughter replied "I don't want to know that much about how elevators work."

 

here are what actual tanks for developing film look like

[ATTACH=full]1334248[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1334249[/ATTACH]

 

I have a tank but I inevitably kink the film when loading it - I want a machine that makes it easier, ha! I've seen some but they are frightfully expensive for what they are, in my opinion. Thank you. Alice.

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I think it's a bulk loader for loading 35mm cassettes from 100' rolls of film. Do a search on Sommor bulk loader. Pretty rare; I've never seen one before. Won't help you developing.

 

I was searching under developing tanks, ha! Thank you. Alice.

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Most 'daylight loading' tanks use a dimpled apron to separate the layers of the film spiral from each other. This apron impedes the flow of developer and often leads to patchy development and/or fixing.

 

Far better to follow the tips given in these fora to load a conventional plastic or SS tank.

 

The main points are: 1) Make sure the tank is completely dry before loading (stainless steel makes this easier because it can be heat dried).

2) Practise, practise and practise some more, with a scrap length of film in both the light and in the dark.

 

If you're only using 35mm film, then I really recommend getting an SS tank. Get one with sprocket-hole claws rather than a stupid spring clip and it'll load easy-peasy.

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If you are constantly having trouble loading the developing stainless steel reels it might be the fault of the reels. If they are even slightly bent they will give nothing but trouble and will drive you crazy. Throw the bent ones away and replace them. Be careful when buying used ones. If there are any obvious faults walk away.
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Follow Rodeo’s advice.

I’m glad I did.

 

I use these. But I have had the same problem as you in the beginning with the kinking which produced crescents in the negatives.

They are pricey but well worth the investment.

Took me a bit to overcome the sticker shock, but I’m glad I did.

Not sure how available they might be second hand or on EBay.

The reason I posted the link is to show the sprocket hole cleat in the center that works well.

It cannot be stressed enough, the value of practicing technique with a cheap disposable roll of exposed film over and over to observe what works.

Do it with your eyes open several times, then close your eyes and do it by feel.

 

Hewes 35mm Stainless Steel Developing Reel

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Good Lord! I hadn't priced SS reels in about 50 years. I remember a tank where you twisted the top and bottom spirals back and forth and they sucked the film in. Had to be perfectly dry to work. IMO, just learn to load SS reels with a junk roll and, like learning to ride a bicycle, you'll always know how to do it. I'd never toss a slightly bent reel as they're quite easy to make parallel again. Are you working in a changing bag or darkroom?
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Good Lord! I hadn't priced SS reels in about 50 years.

+1 to that! Shocking price.

 

A few years ago I was given - as in free and for nothing - a big bag of Jobo reels. The large diameter ones that load quite easily. Unfortunately you need large diameter tanks as well, which are only economical if you use rotary agitation.

 

How times change, but I can't believe there's a corresponding upsurge in darkroom use to match the price hike.

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Good Lord! I hadn't priced SS reels in about 50 years. I remember a tank where you twisted the top and bottom spirals back and forth and they sucked the film in. Had to be perfectly dry to work. IMO, just learn to load SS reels with a junk roll and, like learning to ride a bicycle, you'll always know how to do it. I'd never toss a slightly bent reel as they're quite easy to make parallel again. Are you working in a changing bag or darkroom?

Hi, I use a changing bag but I can construct a darkroom if and when required.

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With stainless steel you want high quality reels such as Hewes. If you can find used Nikkor reels in good shape they are good as well. Beware of bargain priced ones, though. Some of them are more difficult to load. With proper care the reels will last a long time. I've still got a couple from the late 1970's that still load smoothly. Other brands might be available, although where you live might determine availability.
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Actually, it's Nikor with one "k". They were in West Springfield, Mass. I only know this because I still have one reel in its original box. Apparently they were also Honeywell Nikor in Japan. I'm pretty sure 35mm reels came in both 24 and 36 exposure versions and the 24 should be easier to load. There might even have been a 20. There should be millions of the things out there... somewhere.
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Fifty quid but tempted...

Don't be. If they were a good idea, everyone would be using one.

 

The design allows developer to contact the metal film cassette, and metals and developer aren't a good mixture - stainless steel excepted.

I'm pretty sure 35mm reels came in both 24 and 36 exposure versions and the 24 should be easier to load.

I think you're mistaken there Conrad. I've never seen anything other than a full 36 exposure size reel and tank. OTOH, there were very cramped and flimsy reels for 220 film that fitted a standard diameter tank. They loaded OK, but didn't allow very good circulation of processing solution.

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$45.00 for one new reel?! Wow. I have not bought new reels for a long time. There are plenty of used ones around on craigslist and ebay. Just stick to the good ones like Nikor or Hewes. I bought a 16oz Nikor tank with 2 Nikor reels at a car swap meet last year for $10.00. I did not need them but could not pass them up for that price. Lucky for me the reels were straight and work perfectly. Conrad says he can straighten bent ones but I have never been successful at that. I just make them worse.
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Don't be. If they were a good idea, everyone would be using one.

 

The design allows developer to contact the metal film cassette, and metals and developer aren't a good mixture - stainless steel excepted.

 

I think you're mistaken there Conrad. I've never seen anything other than a full 36 exposure size reel and tank. OTOH, there were very cramped and flimsy reels for 220 film that fitted a standard diameter tank. They loaded OK, but didn't allow very good circulation of processing solution.

 

Honeywell Nikor did indeed sell a 20 exp reel, I have one in my darkroom which I bought off eBay about 2 yrs ago. They are somewhat rare. I remember selling them back in the 70's.

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Honeywell Nikor did indeed sell a 20 exp reel, I have one in my darkroom which I bought off eBay about 2 yrs ago. They are somewhat rare. I remember selling them back in the 70's.

 

I thought that they were 126 reels, but maybe it is the same thing.

 

How long a roll will they hold?

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-- glen

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