fujichrome provia 100F and provia 400X

Discussion in 'Film and Processing' started by diegobuono, Jan 11, 2016.

  1. Hi all,
    I would have your opinion ont he following: I started a project in wich I take picture of street art. I wanted the picture to be the more
    homogeneous as possible so I started using just one lens and just one film (provia 100F). Now I have discovered that the amount of
    pictures I have yet to take is bigger than I have expected and buying new rolls of provia 100 F is becoming quite expensive. I have taken
    about 65% of the total pictures. So I thought to switch to provia 400X because I have plenty of it and do not use it (bought for a different
    project now abandoned). I do not particularly like the grain (more intrusive) of the provia 400X but I do not think these pictures will be
    enlarged very much (probably will end on a self publishing book, like blurb, or something similar, and on a big picture mademof many
    diferent little pictures of all the subject shot) and take into accohnt that all the pictures will be shot in 6 x 6 cm (Hasselblad and CF 50
    FLE lens).
    Probably I could keep using Provia 100F with a little economic sacrifice, but I would like to use some of the Provia 400X I have that
    otherwise will remain unused (I keep it refrigerated but I can't keep it forever).
    So the question: how the colors of the provia 400 X compares to provia 100F? I know they are a bit different, as I know that I stated I
    wanted to have all the pictures the more homogeneus as possible, but now I am considering that the light is very different on the
    different pictures (different days, different hours, different weather...), do you think this changes in the light is more influential than the
    film difference?
    I have used provia 400X only few times so I do not have the knowledge I have for provia 100F, how would you rate the ISO of the Provia
    400X considering that I rate Provia 100F at 100 ISO?
    Unfortunatly I do not have the time to test provia 400X and compare it to Provia 100F so I have to go for one or the other without further
    I hope I have been quite clear with the questions, and I hope you can help me in taking this decision.
    Thank you very much for your help.
  2. If you scan them, you should be able to correct for most color differences after scanning.
  3. The two films have noticeably different looks, and 120 provia 100f is still reasonable at $7 a roll from BH.
  4. The difference in lighting could be bigger than the difference in film, with the film difference still visible.
    If you have software that allows specifying a transformation matrix, you can correct for the linear effects of color differences. There are nine matrix elements which specify the R, G, and B output each as a linear function of the R, G, and B input. I suspect that is enough to correct for the visible differences. If you have two pictures with the same subject and same lighting, but different films, that should be close to enough to determine the matrix.
    If you use the 400X at times with very unusual lighting, such as near sunset, I suspect the difference will be much less noticeable. That would bean two backs so you could quickly change films. Also, somewhat more work.
    Otherwise, find a new project for the 400X and use only 400X for that one.
  5. If you use the 400X at times with very unusual lighting, such as near sunset, I suspect the difference will be much less noticeable.​
    I probably disagree with this. Near sunset time (or so called Golden Hours) and twilight are the best time to use 400X. it's where the 400X shines. It comes with pristine blues and bright yellow and reds. When I travel it is the only film I use during this time of a day. The 100F lacks of visual impact and creates some sort of blue/magenta cast. May be it is possible to use the matrix to correct the color but personally I prefer to use the right film based on the lighting conditions.
    But as a Rule of Thumb the slower film is always better than high ISO one. So if you don't need high ISO don't use it. Use this link http://www.photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00N3Pv?start=20 for some references.

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