RaymondC Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 <p>I have only got my manual RB67 and started using a handheld light meter. I have shot Velvia with an automatic electronic Nikon as an amateur for some time but I have never wrote down my settings in a lot of detail. When we spot meter it depends where we aimed it and how much adjustments we applied. Also there is reciprocity - going by Fuji they claim that 4" will require some form of adjustments and I read that some people have not needed to do that until XX seconds. </p><p>So can anyone tell me what you guys do at night photography with Velvia 50? I would probably need to waste some film to bracket and really write detailed notes and do long exposures with and without correcting reciprocity. Depending how it turns out maybe I would need to use Velvia 100 which Fuji says does not need adjustments until 60 seconds. </p><p>Thanks in advance. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_henderson Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 <p>http://www.fujifilm.com/products/professional_films/pdf/velvia_50_datasheet.pdf</p> <p>If you link to the above you'll find Fuji's Velvia 50 data sheet which tells you what you want to know. Note two things</p> <p>As well as increasing exposure it recommends a light magenta filter to compensate for a colour shift to green on long exposure.</p> <p>They do not recommend using this film for exposures of more than 32 seconds. This is presumably because they consider the films exposure or colour response (or both) to be unpredictable beyond that point. </p> <p>Given that at night you won't be seeing much of the colour characteristic people associate with Velvia , and that its slow speed will exacerbate things like moving clouds etc, are yousure you're using the right film for night time application?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaymondC Posted May 7, 2016 Author Share Posted May 7, 2016 I have the sheet printer. I was after people's experience. The only alternative slide is Provia. A lot of pro's used Velvia at night right and sunrise sunset twilight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 <p>Ken Rockwell's recently posted his cheat-sheet: http://www.kenrockwell.com/fuji/velvia-50.htm#reciprocity</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_henderson Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 <p>OK if you want experience rather than information, I found the colours created by Velvia 50 pre-dawn and post sunset to be so unpredictable and sometimes downright unpleasant that I stopped using it (in favour of Provia) at those times and wouldn't use Velvia unless there was enough sun to light at least part of the scene. May be better if you scan slides.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donbright Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 <p>Velvia is an awesome film, so much so I hope its here for us forever, but for how well Velvia does what it does, its necessary to know and accept what it doesn't do. So I use it for the landscape in daylight and move on.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 <p>Some years ago, I did moonlight photography with Ektachrome 200, maybe about 10 minutes.<br> That is, lit by a full moon. I think I also tried 45 minutes with Ektachrome 64.<br> I don't remember a problem with the colors. Never tried with Fuji films.</p> -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaymondC Posted May 7, 2016 Author Share Posted May 7, 2016 Velvia 100? 60sec without reciprocity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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