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First timer, really need an advice please


tora_kun

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<p>How are you guys doing?<br /><br />I'm planning for my first ever trip to Europe. I only have a budget for about $1900-2000 and I have a dilemma, I hope you can help me.<br /><br />So, I'm gonna go to Italy (rome, florence), germany, belgium, netherland and paris. I am really worried on missing shots! I heard that the places are quite narrow, so I will need an ultra wide angle lenses. The problem is, fuji's ultra wide option are only 2. 10-24mm (expensive!!), and 14mm f2.8 (I heard its excellent, but is 21mm enough?). I figured I will need 2 lenses. 1 Ultra wide + 1 fast lens for night time, etc<br /><br />Since my budget is only that little, I was thinking of going for either xe1 second hand or xpro1 second hand. I can get 8 months warranty left, excellent condition xe1 for $450, as well as xpro1 for $550. I can't decide which one to get between the two honestly. Whats left is the lens. I figured there are couple of choices.<br /><br />1. 10-24mm+50mm 1.4 = $1300 ish<br />2. 14mm f2.8+50mm 1.4 = not to flexible I suppose, 2 primes.. but I won't know.<br />3. 56mm f1.2+18-55mm = because my gf is living in germany and I'm gonna meet her, I figured 56 f1.2 will be a great choice because I want to take a beautiful picture of her. However, not sure about the practicality. With this option, I think I'll be happy because I know 56mm f1.2 is a great lens, but I'll be stuck with 18mm (27mm equiv) for wide angle in those cities. <br /><br />So, my question to you is, which are the best combo? Or maybe you can suggest something totally different, I'd appreciate it as well. <br>

Other option would be second hand nikon d7000 because I already have tokina 12-24mm lens. However, I think walking all day carrying DSLR, I'll be dead by night time.<br>

<br />This is really my first time going to europe and I really want my choice of camera+lens to be perfect.<br />Looking forward to your replies guys.<br />Sincerely,<br /><br />Tora</p>

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<p>I'm sure the members who are there can direct you to appropriate used dealers in Europe,<br>

but Europe is not the cheapest place to buy equipment - not the least of the problems is a very hefty "Value Added Tax" - VAT. I dimly recall some kind of exemption if you were taking the thing out of Europe when you left, but that was years ago. You have to ask for it, if it is still there.</p>

<p>You don't say where you are 'at', and it may be that Europe is cheap by comparison, I know.</p>

 

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<p>Hi Tora,</p>

<p>Consider getting the new Canon EF-S 10-18mm STM IS lens--along with new Canon dslr to mount it to. It is reputed to have excellent performance, has a built-in image-stabilizer, weights only 240 grams AND cost ONLY $300!!! No one else, has anything remotely close in terms of cost or weight. For me a perfect 3 lens travel kit would comprise the Canon 10-18, the latest Sigma 30F1.4 DC "A" lens and the Tamron 60mm F2.0 macro. This should fit well within your budget.<br>

Good luck.<br>

Alex</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>recent "convert" from Nikon DX to Olympus µ43 here...</p>

<p>I agree about the smaller size and weight for travel. I'd do the 10-24 + 50... BUT... I would definitely consider getting some kind of tele zoom, even something inexpensive (and small and light) if you can.</p>

<p>I've been surprised so many times at how useful a long lens has been for travel that I won't be without one.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>I am really worried on missing shots!</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Don't! Instead "focus" on the ones that you can get with whatever equipment you (can) bring along.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Other option would be second hand nikon d7000 because I already have tokina 12-24mm lens. However, I think walking all day carrying DSLR, I'll be dead by night time.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>With your budget, that would be my first choice - and I wouldn't worry about the weight, since it really isn't that much over the Fuji options that you are considering. A refurbished D7000 is $609 at adorama at the moment - so you've got another $1300 to spend on lenses and accessories. Add the 35/1.8DX - that's another $150 (used) or $200 (new). If you prefer, get the 50/1.8G AF-S - used about the same as the 35 and new some $20 more expensive. That still leaves some $1100 for something with more reach - I suggest getting the 70-300 VR, which eats up not even half of the remaining budget. Once you get back, you could sell pretty much all of it for about as much as you paid for it (if purchased used) or with a bit of a loss if you bought new.</p>

<p>Another option would be to adapt that Tokina 12-24 to whichever Fuji body you choose to get - you would be forgoing AF though.</p>

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<p>Not sure what to write. I am European, have travelled a bit and own an entire lens line for something and Fujis too. - From my personal experience 21mm FF lenses are a great thing that I 'm really able to use, while 15 & 14mm (on FF) turned out way too wide, special purpose and a too hard to employ during regular shooting. - They are a huge step away from normality or the still usable & impressive 21mm FOV. - Its nice to bring one to cover an event, to add "their living room appears gym sized and the tiny yard like a park" shots, which are usually appreciated by the host, but thats it. Nothing really meaningful I could do with them.<br>

I looked Fuji's lens line up and down on 2 sites but can't spot no 50mm f1.4 at all. Are we talking about their 35mm? <br>

For tourism: The core of the sightseeing documentation work is probably done within a standard zoom's range, that could be easily extended from 21 to 180mm Or wherever the long zoom ends) Given a bit of time I love to pick details with a tele zoom. My Fuji gear consists from X-M1 & 2 consumer zooms + a used X-E1, weighs little covers a lot and didn't cost a fortune. - I haven't traveled with it yet, but consider the expectable results "fair". The tele zoom is no real gem for sure. That means it doesn't beat results from my better primes sharpness wise. On the other hand I accumulated a bunch of worse zooms over the years, so I can live with that somehow and I know an either camera shaken or slightly ill focused picture taken with a 90mm f2.0 will probably look worse. <br>

I picked Fuji for instant gratification, not really to generate postprocessing work.<br>

Which flavor of missed shots are you worried about Tora? - there is a) only wrong lens at hand / b) the rest of the situation preventing you to use your gear. IMHO frequent lens changes are pushing the limit of bearability in a group with non shutterbugs. I usually rather bring multiple cameras than go for that hassle again.<br>

My X-E1 was 300 Euro and there is another in store. Difference between 14mm and 10-24 is 170 Euro, weight unfortunately not published for the prime. At these prices I would probably buy a prime with a dedicated body. What keeps me from doing so is a decent Pentax 12-24mm for color and a 21mm Zeiss for B&W. I'm not warmed up enough with Fuji to abandon my other systems and also reluctant to do so because of concerns about viewfinder lag and missed shots due to that.<br>

So I basically got the Fujis to substitute the zooms Leica aren't offering and 3rd + real 2nd body I can't afford. I hope to get away with snapping the Fujis and doing an occasional frame with a prime on my other camera<br>

X-Pro1: I never handled one. - From what I read the X-E1 takes the same pictures but costs less. The use of the Pro1 hybrid finder is a miracle I haven't figured out yet. Once I focused my Fujis the screen /VF lights up and displays the scene even in barely lit rooms like garages or such. No real need to go for a brighter optical finder with them, considering that it won't help much as long as we need to wait for an AF to do its job too.<br>

As far as lens lines go : 14 24 55 on 2 bodies seems great and desirable as a start (into wedding photrography). But: 2280 Euro and maybe overdone speed & weight wise. - An alternative within their line would be 14 28 60mm 1460 Euro. - If rebates are still granted you get the 28mm for free and will appreciate it as an "I carry nothing" lens. - I believe I read rumors about a non stellar AF in the 60mm. Thats all I know.<br>

Reading through your lists of combos I'd probably settle for 56mm & 18 -50. - Its not my style to buy fast zooms, but the Fuji earned lots of praise. (I believe zooms will die anyhow, so why waste lots of $$ on them, when they are basically intended for convenience where speed doesn't really matter.) - But I come from systrems with in camera stabilization or none at all, so Fuji's stabilized prosumer zooms are different cup of tea. - I rather shoot one of these than ultra fast glass wide open knowing that too much will remain OOF. - I've seen my share of "Noctilux in the cathedral" shots and consider them Lomography for the wealthier folks. - Stopping a 24mm down to f2.4 also doesn't grant enough DOF to nail 2 faces behind a table in focus. <br>

Did you pick Fuji carefully as your system of choice? - I know its en vogue but... you'll sink a lot of money in their lenses.<br>

The pitfall Fuji are shouting for is spending not much less than on decent DSLR gear and end cursing their AF first and later with their probably once great glass in electromechanically dead slightly worn out fantastic plastic. <br>

On the alternatives issue: I'm in my mid 40s & see my self "shapeless" and lazy. Anyhow I doubt to die under the weight of a not exagurated full kit. While traveling with APSC DSLRs I brought 18-50 kit zoom bulky 24 f1.8, 50, 135mm 2 bodies 1 falsh. Zoom & 135mm covered enough by daylight, 24 was meant for indoors and 50mm did portraits of my girlfriend. Stopped down a bit the zoom seemed great enough by day to go for convenience instead of IQ. I did not mind an additional Leica with 15mm and an exposure meter worn together with the pair of SLRs.- I only left the flash at the room.</p>

I believe the 24mm f1.8 and 12 -24 are comparable in bulk everything else I carried was rather ridiculous - 50mm f1.4s are small (or unaffordable) 135mm f2.8 surely not really heavy either.

I want my Fujis to make room for the entire M lens kit in my vest. 21 35 90 + 50 & 135mm the 90mm of these on the bulky end the 35mm not extremely compact, but fair.

If I remember things properly your Tokina is pretty similar to my Pentax zoom. The Fuji would safe 170g againts it make that 200g with a random adapter added. The D7000 would add 400g over the Fuji. Every other bit or lens in the kit shouldn't matter at all. If I wanted to go light with DSLRs and shoot a girlfriend indoors as an option I'd grab 35-80 heritage kit zoom + 12-24 - I could live with that gap - and toss the 50mm in for indoors.

We are talking about one glass bottle of beer here bulk wise so far and you'll waste over 200g by getting a Fuji 55mm instead of Nikon'a 50mm f1.8.

 

To really score in the weight field Fuji needs a 3 bodies rig to gain an 1.2kg advantage that would be significant against anything else, prefeably paired with a zooms vs. primes gain.

I'm not sure how camera weight is an issue for you but if I am carrying 3kg spread over 2 cameras, one per shoulder, I still feel capable of carrying some essentials in a daypack style backpack and maybe compact lenses in front pockets. - I just wouldn't like to carry the big bag of groceries through town and keep shooting.

 

As Dieter already mentioned: a long lens is nice to have in a European city. - lots of nice little details to spot & frame with it.

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<p>Not sure where you are so prices may not work for you. Costco has a Nikon D7100 bundle now with the 18-55 and 55-300mm lenses for $1300. With the 12-24 you have, this should readily cover pretty much anything you might want. (There are other dslr bundles but with the 12-24, you need screw drive compatibility.) Maybe add a fast 50 or 35mm primes. disadvantage, weight and size compared to say a similar compact mirrorless system. The 55-300mm seems to get reasonable reviews and is lighter than the 70-300 which is somewhat heavy and would probably not get as much use as you might think. </p>

<p>Costco also has an A60000 bundle with the 16-50mm and 55-210 lenses (and some other bundles, Fuji included).. You might want to add a wider lens but on a recent trip to Italy, mostly Florence and Rome,, I found the 16-50 on an NEX-6 really wide enough most of the time. Not sure the price on that bundle because they require membership sign in for price on some items. As much as I would like the 10-18/4 (and it's not inexpensive), I think I'd add the 55-210 before it if making a similar trip again.<br>

<br />Yes, walking all day with a dslr kit can be daunting but you are trading that against a somewhat lighter multi-lens kit with mirrorless perhaps spending more or trading off some of the added lenses and sticking to capturing what you can. Multiple lenses with any body adds to the fussiness of the day, makes you wonder about when to swap or taking time to swap, etc. FWIW, while heavier, the "bulk" of a dslr kit seems to be as much ofr more added "problem" than the weight. </p>

<p>Aside from trudging up and down things like Giottos Bell Tower in Florence, and that no matter where you are in Rome, two of the seven hills are between you and your destination ( just kidding, sort of), paring down your kit and other travel stuff, and getting some long walks in on a regular basis before going, should help you decide what you want to take. I took just the NEX-6 and 16-50, haven't added to the E mount kit much yet. I took a small tripod and seldom used it, it spent most of the time in the apartments/hotel rooms. I didn't take a flash. That compares to a trip to Washington DC and I carried the 12-24, 18-70, 70-300 and a D200 and flash and tripod a lot. I never used the 70-300 or tripod. The rest of the family wore out and wasn't willing to hang until good tripod time on the Mall, etc., and walking pace, etc., cut down on the time available to ponder and make swaps between lenses all day long. By yourself, you set your own pace.</p>

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<p>Hi guys!!</p>

<p>Thank you so much for taking time to reply to my humble thread.<br>

I can't really reply one by one but here are some of the things I need to reply.<br>

1. I live in Asia, Japan to be exact. I will be making solo trip to Europe for the first time ever, knowing only a bit of italian (super basic really.. haha), and english while learning french.<br>

2. The problem with the DSLR is, how, based on my experience (I used NIkon D600 FF before I sold it) is that people tend to avoid/flinch when I point a camera at them. I can't stand the looks people give me when I walk around with it. Also, no offence for people who love/stay in Rome, but I heard horror story about petty thiefs or just plain mugging, and carrying DSLR I think may help them identify me easier as a weak asian with expensive (maybe in their mind) camera.<br>

3. Actually, the reason why I am leaning on Fuji cameras is because of its color and high ISO performance. I don't really enjoy photoshopping after my travel because it takes a lot of time. So, out of camera JPEG while also recording in RAW is my preference. I know that the negative is those lenses and its prices! It's very expensive! haha.. <br>

4. About having multiple lens while travelling. I understand, thank you for the insight. I guess its true that when I walk around, I maybe won't even bother to change lens in the middle of the crowd just to take 5 pictures and swap back again. This is a great advice for me. Now, after reading this, I am thinking of getting Fuji's 18-135mm. This lens is standard aperture, 3,5-5,6 but it got IOS (5 stops according to Fuji) and maybe it should help. It's kinda pricey though, coming at around $900 in my country. <br>

5. I honestly have no idea what to expect in those cities like Rome, FLorence, Paris, etc. I have only a little clue on its landscape and conditions. This is why I am asking people that is more knowledgable than me. For example, if people say that 27mm is already enough to capture colosseum/duomo/inside vatican museum/eiffel tower, then I'd gladly take their word blindly. <br>

6. The budget is very tight I know. Ideally, I'd want 3 lenses. Wide, walk around, and at night. After this helpful responses from this thread, I will change my mind I guess. I think I'll go with 18-135mm IOS+35mm 1.4 for potrait+night time.<br>

Thank you so much for the kind responses. I look forward to hear more if you can.<br>

Regards,</p>

<p>Tora</p>

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<p>I've only been to Rome for 3 days 20 years ago. I carried 2 SLRs with bigger lenses and something in my "journalistic" smelling vest too. I had no problems but when I had a flock of gypsie kids approach me in front of collosseum, begging for "cento lira" I rather grabbed a camera in each hand and ran! <br>

Sorry for repeating common sense another time: Thiefes & muggers have to eat (and maybe consume drugs too.) Its probably a profession like any other.<br>

An American on a heritage trip with the Ansco brick dangling on his chest will shout "tourist" like any other (somehow) camera hung dude who doesn't look italian and professional. Tourist translates to $75 cash for sure and the carried camera will fetch the rest of 100. - Next day, next target. And yes tourists are great since maybe they have more issues contacting the police than locals?<br>

Maybe folks shooting on their rear screens look less occupied than others with cameras at their eye and its riskier to reach for their wallets? - I don't know and haven't tried my luck in that field. - All I know: carry an "official" wallet and a hidden real one too, if you are worried about robberies. <br>

Good luck. <br>

I haven't read reviews of the 18-135, but its 800Euro (no cashback), like the entire kit I bought. The consumer kit zooms have OIS too...</p>

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<p>I agree with Dieter's point on not worrying about missing shots because you don't have the right lens. Instead look for shots which suit your gear and your photographic vision. I find this helps creativity.<br /> If you like the Fuji series then I suggest you go with it. Modern cameras are so good that the limiting factor in most travel photography is the photographer rather than the camera. Just make sure you are fully familiar with the camera before you go.<br /> I like all three of your options and have had kits like them at various times and adapted my photography to suit the lenses. But I would probably opt for your first option myself and maybe add a longer lens if there was money/space.<br /> Whatever you decide have a great trip!</p>
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<p>In Europe, a lot of places don't allow the use of a tripod and in quite a few places, you cannot even bring a camera bag (there usually are provisions to store it before entering but some are rather small and don't accommodate even a modest size backpack). So a lot speaks for a compact system with lenses that you can stick into pants or coat pockets if the need arises. </p>

<blockquote>

<p>For example, if people say that 27mm is already enough to capture colosseum/duomo/inside vatican museum/eiffel tower, then I'd gladly take their word blindly.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I would not be happy with having only a 27mm in the places you mention. In fact, I rather have a 10-24 than a 18-135 if I could only take one. Both together don't seem to fit your budget - but maybe the 10-24 and the 55-200 does? The gap wouldn't bother me - but it might be an issue for you though. Giving your budget limitations, I would hesitate choosing a prime lens given its limitations.</p>

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Having been to Europe several times I am tempted to say leave the camera at home on your first trip and

just enjoy what your eyes, ears and nose are telling you. The memories ill always be in your mind and you

will seldom dig out the photos after the first few years. But if you must carry a camera I would recommend

something small and light. Were I to go again I would get a Ricoh GR or something similar. Have a good

trip and don't spend too much time with photography and don't wait in any long lines. The roof of the

Sistene Chapel is almost as interesting as the ceiling.

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<blockquote>

<p>Having been to Europe several times I am tempted to say leave the camera at home on your first trip and just enjoy what your eyes, ears and nose are telling you.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I could NOT disagree more. A trip like this is NOT an every-year thing for many (most?) of us.</p>

<p>I would NEVER take a trip ANYWHERE without every piece of camera gear I can jam in my bag.</p>

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<p>What do you shoot with now? If you already have the Tokina 12-24 in Nikon mount then I assume you have a Nikon body. If that's the case add a 24-70 and a 70-200 and there is your three-lens kit. Try Sigma and Tamron since Nikon glass is out of the budget you've specified. Those three are what I use everyday and they are a basic news photographer outfit that will cover 90 percent of what most people shoot.<br /><br />If you really want to travel light, go to <a href="http://www.strobist.com">www.strobist.com</a> and read what he's been doing with the small Fuji cameras. But I caution against buying a whole new outfit you're not familiar with and heading out on an important trip. Better to use what you are familiar with.<br /><br />Your post sort of implies that you don't own any gear other than the Tokina. Is that the case?<br /><br />I was in Greece and England this summer. Only carried a Canon G15 point and shoot and was able to shoot almost everything I wanted. Given the number of places you're going, you're going to be overwhelmed just by the travel experience let alone trying to shoot pictures of it all. I would simplify the trip or the photography or both so you don't end up exhausting yourself.</p>
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<p>Dear kind people,</p>

<p>Thank you for the wonderful responses. I learn a lot from this forum. I will try to address some things.<br>

1. I only have the tokina lens because it was a "leftover" from when I had Nikon camera before. Sadly, I don't have any camera body. Only Sony RX 100 mark 1 which I feel often misses focus and low dynamic range.<br>

2. Dieter, thank you again. You've been really helpful to me. As much as I want to, the 10-24mm is expensive and getting that meaning, no more lens above $400-500. As what some poster posted, based on their Europe trip, there are many things that are unique and I'd want to have a longer lens to capture its details. I think that makes sense. I guess, I'd have to be disappointed with only having 28mm wide angle going to those wonderful places. I really hope that will be enough, having no experience myself.<br>

3. Thomas, Thanks! I didn't realize that.. But I checked their battery, it cost around $60 a pop in here.. ughh.. Maybe can only afford 1.. sad..<br>

4. Craig, I am getting that overwhelming feeling lately because maybe the trip is coming up in 2 weeks! I guess simplifying my gear is paramount if I were to enjoy the trip. Also, wow, only with canon g15? I wish I'm that good and confident photographer as you are! Unfortunately, I'm just a medium enthusiast.<br>

5. Charles, unfortunately, Peter was right. I won't get this chance often. Who knows when I can visit Europe again.. I don't dare just relaying on my memory alone.. I got Sony rx 100 mark 1, old camera, but super small. Thats for my backup. Will keep in mind about the Sistine! thanks!<br>

Thank you all for your help, I really appreciate taking time to write for me.</p>

<p>Regards,</p>

<p>Tora</p>

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<p>Tora, I am no international shipping expert, but I see ebay full of "Fuji NP-W126" batteries sold from Hong Kong for US$13 a pair or the US for $8 single and in sets 2 batteries one charger for $25 & less.<br>

Even if a generic battery has just 80% capacity it seems still the better deal. - Unlike with Leica I haven't read of any issues Fuji cameras might have with 3rd party batteries.<br>

My used body came with a generic battery that seems doing fine like the original one (inscription reads "patona" brand. It claims to be high capacity 9.1Wh instead of 8.7WH in the original Fuji battery). - only issue: the bottom has no orange dot to indicate which way it should be inserted. - I recommend painting or sticking something there once you get hold of your batteries.<br>

In doubt: order 2 pairs from different sources and be sure about one of them to perform great. I recommend having a 2nd charger for 5 batteries in total. - Fuji chargers seem pretty compact, one of mine went into the (small) camera bag.<br>

Biggest battery related issue: Airline regulations. - I am not up to date about them and postponed spare battery purchase to before a big trip, if I ever take one. - I had 2 generic SLR batteries die from lack of usage so far. So I rather don't stock up too much for my everyday life.</p>

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<p>Another issue: I would not worry too much about not super wide lenses. - There seems a lot of even free panaorama stitching software floating around. - Maybe you'll get a chance to try it out before you leave and feel more confident? - I only tried it once when I shot a parade on a bridge from a distance and was worried about total resolution. - It worked somehow for me. OK, it is postprocessing hassle, but still better than no picture.</p>
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<p>On batteries: 1) You definitely need at least two, preferably three, for whatever camera you take. you'll probably be out for long days and don't want to run out of battery power. 2) Taking them onboard the plane as carryon is no problem, but keep the plastic caps that cover the end of a battery. They don't want uncapped batteries that can potentially short out and cause a fire. You are not allowed to put lithium batteries in checked baggage because there's no way to get to them in-flight if there is a problem. 3) Most European hotels require that you put your keycard into a slot on the wall to turn on the lights and air conditioning. When you take the keycard out when you leave, the lights AND the outlets turn off. So if you have batteries in a charger in the middle of the day and you think they are charging, they aren't. Carry an old card from previous trips to stick in the slot, although the maid might grab it during the day.<br /><br /><br /></p>
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<p>Dear guys,</p>

<p>Thank you again for the tips and replies. It has been wonderful.</p>

<p>I will keep in mind everything that has been said in this thread. I will update what could be my final decision.<br>

I've decided to get Fuji XT1, the latest and greatest from Fuji I guess. The consideration is as follows:<br>

a. The only Fuji body that's weather sealed. I think since I'm going in November, there's definitely rain coming my way, and I don't want my equipments to be spoiled.<br>

b. The viewfinder is huge, some people even say that it looks like viewing a HDTV when you peek into it. <br>

c. Body is magnesium alloy and durable. Also the grip is great. Other fuji camera only have a tiny bump for our hand, and I'm a careless person, so this could help me in the long run I suppose.<br>

d. Dials! Tons of dials up top. From ISO, Shutter speed, capture mode(bracket/cont/etc) Metering mode, etc are all on sight. No need to go into the menu!<br>

e. Manual focus is a breeze thanks to dual picture in the viewfinder (showing you the whole scene + focus area whether it's already in focus or not. Why is this important, because it got something to do with my next update.<br>

Lenses, I've decided that I'll just get 1 lens from Fuji. The 18-135 (28-203mm I think). Because its the only weather resistant lens and also the range is quite good. I think I'll be pretty happy with the zoom range it covers. Fuji also incorporated amazing 5 stop IOS. Fuji knows more about image stabilizers than Nikon or Canon. Fuji makes stabilizing binoculars used aboard spacecraft and helicopters, while Canon's IS system lacks the angular displacement for these high-vibration jobs. So, I guess I had to be confident with it.<br /><br>

Now, after digging around, just couple of hours ago, I found an idea that I should've thought long time before. They got a lens adapter for Nikon F to Fuji X. Meaning I can use my Tokina 12-24mm! This is such a great thing for me because it means I don't have to get a new lens or worrying about those wide angle. <br>

However... it does come at a price (literraly to because it cost around $100 in here, by metabones). It's gonna be only manual focus. So, I don't know how hard is this.. I heard from people that for wide angle lenses, focusing manually is just turning focusing ring into infinity and be done with it.<strong> But, I have no clue about this. So, if anyone can help with their knowledge, please kindly share with me</strong>.<br>

Those are the updates from me. I'm leaving next Sunday, so it's getting closer. I feel kind of overwhelmed and disbelief. My dream about going to Europe is about to come true.<br>

Thank you guys again for the kind replies!</p>

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<p>Focusing an adapted wide lens on any kind of see through camera is mainly a psychological issue to me, since the manual film SLRs taught us to do something with that hand below the focusing ring. Looking at the DOF markings of my Voigtländer 15mm: I'm fine with focus marking in the middle between infinity symbol and 2m wide open at f4.5. At f8 I could put it to 1m and get DOF from 0.6 m to infinity. Its easier to not touch that tiny lens than its huge SLR zoom counterpart where it is also easier to spin the focusing ring.<br>

So to put it simple: on the wide end all you need is a routine to check if you are close to infinity side of your focusing. for shots of people in the 18 - 24mm range you might be happier with the Fuji zoom but everything should be fairly easy to do. - Sorry I have no experince with Fuji's manual focusing support / assistance yet so I described using such lenses on cameras where I don't really see focusing success, like on AF SLR's screens.<br>

The XT-1 appears to be an impressive camera, most likely nice and easier to shoot than the XE-1. - Having it with the endless zoom should make your trip really enjoyable. - I haven't done the zoom wit OIS vs. fast glas without stabilization shootout yet, but I can imagine that OIS is the better choice for travel pictures. <br>

It would be great to know if OIS benefits from shaky ultralight tripods or plays well with these . - Not by day but later in the night.</p>

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<p>Google "hyperfocal distance" and get a decent depth of field calculator for your smartphone or tablet. Practice before hand as much as you can.</p>

<p>Yes, you can manually focus that lens, you'll be fine. Ideal? Maybe not, but you'll find you can get good stuff with it, I'm sure.</p>

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<p>What Peter said is important. Practice now. Don't get too fancy, you probably won't remember everything that you might want to try. We stayed in apartments and a hotel in Innsbruck and had had no trouble keeping up with batteries and charging. Consider getting separate charger, that way you've got two charging at a time and it's easy to keep three topped off, especially overnight. The RX100 is a fine camera for backup. It was my daughter's only camera for a year in Europe. If going to the Vatican Museum, go as early as possible, it gets more and more crowded as the day goes on. You can't take pictures in the Sistine Chapel but it and the Raphael Rooms, etc., are well worth seeing. </p>

<p>Don't be disappointed if you don't see everything you want. You could spend weeks in Rome and Florence trying to catch everything you might be interested in or have read about.</p>

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