Difference between olympus om-2 and om2n

I cant seem to find out... Only that theres is age difference.. What to get?

The OM-2n has a reset function added to the manual-off-auto-(battery)check lever, that (as the name suggests) resets the mirror when the camera seized due to lack of battery power and the batteries have been replaced. On the earlier OM-2 you had to set the shutter to "B".<br>The OM-2n also shows in the viewfinder when exposure compensation has been set.<br>Perhaps most importantly, the OM-2n has an extended auto exposure range, metering to 120 seconds instead of the OM-2's 60 seconds.

<p>Here's a link to almost anything you might want to know about the OM series cameras: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/index.htm</p>

<p>Since the OM-2N was the later model it would likely be easier to find one in better condition. I like the dual meter display: it shows the shutter speed scale in aperture priority and when you switch to manual it only shows the manual metering part. The extended metering range is also a plus although you need a film with good reciprocity characteristics for the longer exposures to be useful. When my family had a camera shop we stocked the OM models, but regrettably more customers chose the OM-10 over the OM-1 or OM-2 (and 2N). So go for the OM-2N if you can get it at good price. If it is drastically cheaper possibly the OM-2. You may want to figure in a CLA just to be safe.</p>

<p>Perhaps the most compact information can be found at<br>

http://www.star.ucl.ac.uk/~rwesson/esif/om-sif.htm , the unofficial olypus sales information file. Here it says, that the N-Version automatically sets the right shutter speed with T-series Flashes.<br>

In this case, the shutter closes , even if the flash exposure is too low (it stays open collecting more light using the OTF -feature on the older version). The multi flash option with unconnected flash guns should be available in both models..<br>

Rainer</p>

 

<p>Rainer - what is "the multi flash option with unconnected flash guns"?</p>

<p>repeat post - deleted</p>

Ok thanks guys for helping me out here. You see i have a choice of buying a om2 with a 35-70, 75-150 , 28 3.5 , 135 2.8 a flash and

some accesories for approx 430 dollars, and a om-2n with 50 1.8 with winder for 120 dollars. I dont really want to buy

the first set up because i havent really got 430 bucks to spent ( allthough i can strech it) . But id love to buy the om-2n with the 50 mm

and build up the lens collection from there only im in doubt : the winder! - does this indicate that this is a camera that has shot lots of lots

of lots of shots maybe being in proffessionel service once in time - What would you do?

And i dont really need the winder...

Get the second set.<br><br>I wouldn't worry about the winder. We can't know whether that thing being there means it has been used a lot. And how do you know that a winder not being sold with the first camera, it has not been used a lot, with or without a winder?<br><br>I'm not a fan of the early Zuiko zooms (the 75-150 being the first): not nearly as good as the fixed focal length Zuikos. There is a rather good (late) version of the 35-70 mm zoom, but there are also two (if i remember correctly) other versions that at best are only so-so.<br>So those zooms would not make the first set particularly appealing. Considering they probably bump the price of that set up quite a bit, they would sooner put me off that set (yet, which version 35-70 mm zoom it is, is not yet known. Could make a difference.)<br>The 28 mm and the 135 mm lenses are fine.<br><br>What flash? A T32?

[Oh joy! Post appearing twice. Hence deleted.]

Thanks q.g. Bakker... Its a 35-70 3.6 and a 75-150. 4.0 and i cant see on the small picture what flash it is. Also the guy who sells the

om2n has seperatly a 28 mm 2.8 forf sale for like 120 dollars så i figure as i never really phootograph beyond 75 mm with all my other

cameras i could get the om2n with 28 mm and 50 mm for half the price of the first set and be on my way sort of speak. Btw are the

black/metal om2n more popular than the black version only?

<p>I don't think the pro use winder they would use the motor drive instead. I would not worry about the fact that the camera was used with the winder. Unlike digital camera, film camera with winder and motor drive doesn't really take a lot more pictures because film isn't cheap and you only have 36 shots before reloading. </p>

I really can't remember which version of the 35-70 mm zooms was the better one. But then: i wouldn't recommend getting a zoom lens anyway, so... ;-)<br>I don't know what the current rate for Zuiko lenses is (haven't looked for one in a long time), but if the f/2.8 28 mm's asking price would appear not to be too high, it's a fine lens to have.<br><br>My personal favourite Olympus/35 mm format two lens set consists of the 35 and 100 mm lenses. I would add the Zuiko f/3.5 50 mm macro lens (great both as a 'general purpose' standard lens and as a macro lens) and a 24 mm wide angle. I also don't use long lenses a lot, but when i did i used the 135 mm and the f/4 200 mm lenses. Also didn't leave anything to desire.<br><br>Whether all black or chrome trim is a matter of taste. The chrome trim version was (and i believe still is) indeed the favourite of many. I prefer the chrome trim myself.

<p>Go with the second deal. You can add lenses as you like and have time to shop for the best price. Q. G. makes an excellent recommendation regarding the 50 mm f3.5 macro. It is actually more compact than some camera makers' fast 50's and it is a top notch performer. There were four Zuiko 35-70's: The 35-70 f4, 35-70 f3.6, 35-70 f3.4-4.5, and the "made for Olympus by Cosina" 35-70 f3.5-4.8. Avoid the last one (although it could serve as body cap). The third one (the f3.5-4.5) might be decent, but try to look up some tests if you really want a zoom in this range. I like the 35-105 f3.5-4.5 Zuiko although the 35 mm f2.8 and 100 mm f2.8 will outperform it. My copy of the 75-150 performs well for a zoom in this range but you'd still be better off with a couple of Olympus primes instead.</p>

<p>I'd also go with the 2nd deal. The price for the zooms in the package seems a little high, and you may be buying gear you won't use. Better, IMHO, to select your lenses separately based on your actual needs, and after you have done some research on which prime lenses produce the best IQ.</p>

<p>Hi David,<br>

<br />the OM2 has OTF (off the film) measurement. If, for example, you are planning to get a well lighted picture of a big room (like a church ) , you will be in trouble using a single flash due to the rapid falloff with distance. With the OM2 and some flashgun of any type and in a relatively dark room, just put the camera on a tripod, choose your distance setting at an appropriate hyperfocal distance for the chosen aperture and open the shutter. It will stay open up to the moment when the otf measurement has detected enough light for the correct exposure. Now walk round the room and manually fire your flash multiple times, preferably in a well balanced distribution. the shutter will automatically close after some flashes. This feature is unique with the OM- System , to my knowledge the only other OTF- camera is the Pentax LX. </p>

<p>The 35 -70 3,6 is very highly regarded and sought after and is without doubt the best (and heaviest) in the line mentioned.</p>

Wow .. Thanks for some super advices. I will go with the second setup adding a 28 mm 2.8 . So i will have a. 50 mm and a 28mm .

Thanks a lot

Just to finish this off .. I bought a very different om-2n house in mint condition (silver - i like it best;)) for 130 dollars and a very very nice

om-1n silver ( seems like new) with a zuiko 50 1.8 and a vivitar auto 24 2.8 ( which seems very sturdy and like new - i dont know much

about it , a hotshoe 4 , and a international "something" flash with different flashdiffusers , and two rolls of kodak gold 200 For 85 dollars. I

only have the om-1n ( the other is on its way in the mail) but wow ... This is one sweet camera.. Makes my ae1 program fade a littel...;)

<p>Well, the OM-1N is the perfect companion to your "soon to arrive" OM-2N. The OM-1N is purely mechanical as the battery only serves to run the light meter. I use a zinc air 675 cell in my OM-1 and it works great. Avoid alkaline cells as the voltage drops gradually so it only give correct readings for only part of its life. </p>

Thanks mike ... I got 3 of these 1 for my omn1 and two for omn2. And they both work great ... So far ... I have yet to see

a developed film. Anyway why all this fos about silveroxide .. I got these as easily as nothing ... I hope they are good..

http://www.batterishoppen.dk/produkter/260-8240.htm

Sølvoxide = silveroxide...

You need to look for replacement batteries for the OM-1. The zinc-air cells offer an alternative to the no longer available 1.35 V mercury batteries. The (correct) zinc-air cells are good as such.<br>But zinc-air cells run down whether you use the thingies or not. Very expensive in the long run. The OM-2(n) will take years to run down the silver-oxide batteries it takes Much cheaper.

Ok Q.G ... I dont quiet get it... Does the om1n take a 1.35 and the om2n - the silveroxide as the ones i just showed in the link? ( i hope so)

but as i read you i can use the one fom the link in the om1n with some exposure compensation or. Anyway i have a silveroxide 1.35 v in

my olympus rc 35 bought fom the littel battery company in the uk i can switch to the om1n . They got on freez