joseph_leotta Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 <p>In the seventies I must have developed a 1000 rolls of film. The problem is I have not developed any film since the seventies.<br /> I just got everything together and am shooting B&W film again, mostly Tri-x and some Plus-x <br /> Looking at my old notes on old negatives I used D76 both 1:0 and 1:1 but can't remember why.<br /> Looks like 1:1 is the way to go. Use it once and throw it out for consistence results and not worrying about replenishment or life.<br /> Am I missing something?<br /> Also any experience with Neopan 400 and D-76?</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 <p>A little more grain and sharpness with 1-1 and as you said always the same results.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 <p>Slightly different H-D curve between the two, and 1:1 has less solvent effect, so the grain is more pronounced (sharp edged), giving a sharper (but grainier) look.<br> Note that the Kodak times for 1:1 are for 8 ounces of water and 8 ounces of developer per 35mm roll. If you only use 4 and 4, you need to increase the developing time by 10%. See the D-76 data sheet.<br> I'd use D-76 single shot for 1:1 or 1:0.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
profhlynnjones Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 <p>I agree with the two previous responses, and addition, this has nothing to do with consistancy, but quality differencesfor specific purposes.</p> <p>With full strength D76. use D76R replenisher to maintain consistant quality forever.</p> <p>Lynn</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpo3136b Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 <p>It's a stop's worth of difference. One advantage is in compensation times for temperature; if the bath is warmer than 20C, and you dilute, it's easier to stay above five minutes.</p> <p>Exposing a film to energy in a liquid is similar to exposing a film to light energy. You can use the same types of reciprocity balances to solve for film exposure. Half the developer in the tank (1+1 cp. 1+0 at 500mL for both), with no other changes made, is just like halving the light exposure. It's a stop's worth of difference.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpo3136b Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 <p>Keep in mind, when I say, no other changes made, that normally, you <em>would</em> make a change. You would change duration of liquid exposure to balance out the drop in developer intensity. Just like changing shutter speed to allow for a change in f/stop. Good luck with your photos. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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