from Nikon to Fuji

<p>Mirrorless is great. My go-to cameras for general use, especially indoor portraits. Compact and light weight, focusing on the LCD is fine, manual focus lenses are a pleasure to use, works for me for most photography except long tele (e.g. shooting birds).</p>

<p>Wow..I must have gotten a camera that has been on the shelf for a while...version 1.1. I'll do the upgrade and see if there is a change, although part of what I don't like is that the fact that it's not second nature like my Nikon (learning curve)</p>

 

<p>wifi app won't communicate with my iPhone 6, I've downloaded the correct app from Fujifilm, the camera just won't connect. The phone shows the the camera's wifi in the wifi settings. any trouble shooting tips for this or should I contact Fuji?</p>

There are a couple of different apps but the one you want is called FUJIFILM Camera Remote. You have to put the

camera in WiFi mode, go to iPhone settings, pick the camera WiFi network and then go to the app and Browse Camera.

One difficulty is that if you leave browse more the camera will end the WiFi connection and you're in range of one of your

usual networks, the phone will get on it and you'll have to go repeat the steps to reconnect to the camera.

<p>Thank you. It finally worked after I moved away from my modem. And I'm not as disenchanted with camera as I first was....I just need to give it time and get used to the different interface.</p>

 

There's also a new firmware coming out in a few days that includes all the AF improvements that the X-T10 has.

 

Have you been trying out the film modes? Another thing I like is that you can use the custom settings to save settings for

different shooting styles, so you can start to get pretty good JPGs. Then you flip through the saves in the Q screen, upper

left box. H tone and S tone are also very useful adjustments.

<p>Nearly a year ago, I went from a D7000 and a nice kit of glass, to the X-T1 and eventually, several primes, and the 10-24 f4. The learning curve was much steeper than I'd expected, but in my opinion, unless you shoot sports or have a need for lenses in excess of 200mm, Fuji is the way to go. Lightening the load is a nice + too. Although the look and feel alone might not be worth making the switch, the image quality is. I'm taking more shots than ever, and my keep rate is a fair amount higher than it was with the Nikon. It's all a little cult-like, similar to having an early Mac when some of the PC guys didn't "get it." </p>

<p>Nearly a year ago, I went from a D7000 and a nice kit of glass, to the X-T1 and eventually, several primes, and the 10-24 f4. The learning curve was much steeper than I'd expected, but in my opinion, unless you shoot sports or have a need for lenses in excess of 200mm, Fuji is the way to go. Lightening the load is a nice + too. Although the look and feel alone might not be worth making the switch, the image quality is. I'm taking more shots than ever, and my keep rate is a fair amount higher than it was with the Nikon. It's all a little cult-like, similar to having an early Mac when some of the PC guys didn't "get it." </p>

<p>Hope its ok to ask this question here. When I take shot using the B&W filter in camera and then down load into Lightroom CC it changes back to color picture, I'm shooting in raw. My wife has the same issue with her Panasonic FZ200 hybrid camera and she uses Aperture. I installed the SD card into my card reader slot on my iMac and when I ejected it and put it back in camera and viewed the photos in camera they were B&W as shot. what gives?</p>

<p>I think you need to use JPEG or JPEG plus RAW to see the black and white effects. One of the attributes of the Fuji is that the need to use RAW is unnecessary anymore because the JPEGs are soooo good out of the camera, or so the Fuji-cult says.</p>

When you shot in raw, it saved the data from the sensor with a tag that says it was shot in mono. Lightroom doesn't read

that tag, it just applies it's defaults when it interprets the raw data. Lightroom (newer versions) doors have an option in the

develop panel, way at the bottom of the right side, to change the processing from Adobe Standard to one of their

approximations of a Fuji film mode.

<p>When you choose B&W and a filter effect (e.g. red or green filter) it will only affect the JPEG version if you're shooting RAF+JPEG but the RAW file (RAF) records the data as seen by the sensor and will be a color RGB (or sRGB) three layer image as the one you'd get if shooting color (the same apply to film modes).<br /> The reason why you see it in B&W in the camera when you shoot only RAW is because it shows you a generated JPEG to allow the image to be seen on the LCD, as RAW is just data and not a format you can see. To generate this small embedded JPEG file the camera takes into consideration all your settings and adjustments as usual, thus what Andy refers as tag but this information is not limited to color mode.<br /> Even if new Adobe or any other software is able to read this information and take it to offer a first view for your RAF file conversion, in this case showing you a B&W image, it will be just that - a snapshot for a possible conversion result because all the color information is still there and the original file is not modified. Therefore, you will be able to change the B&W aspect of the conversion or give up and convert it to a color image as you please.<br>

This being the way it works I had no surprises when converting RAW files of image exposed as B&W and show as that way on the LCD of my X100, Canon G10 or Nikon DSLR cameras and even with images exposed as color ones the only software that was capable of considering the camera settings was Nikon Capture NX2 as either Adobe ACR, Aperture or DxO all would not be able to recognize and use them.</p>

<p>Thank you guys for clearing that up for me.</p>

<p>These aren't exciting, just plants on the back porch, Jpegs. </p><div></div>

<p>I've been seeing more and more people switching to Fujifilm, and other mirrorless systems. Last week I was selling off some Nikon gear at Adorama and the man ahead of me was telling me that he is moving from Canon (5D MkII) to Sony. Even though he's going from FF to FF, I'm finding that some of the current APS-C sensors are giving many FF sensors a run for their money. Not that they're better, but pretty darned close.<br>

I'm in the process of selling off more and more Nikon gear and purchasing what I'll need to build up my Fuji system. Right now, the only Fuji body I have is an X-E1 which I find much better (noisewise) than my Nikon D300 at ISOs over 400. Yeah, older technology vs newer technology isn't a fair comparison, but I didn't expect the Fuji sensor to be THAT much better.<br>

What's holding me back from making a complete changeover is that Fuji's flash "system" isn't in the same league as that from Nikon. At my age, I sure like the lighter weight and size of the mirrorless systems.</p>

<p>I don't fully understand the need to open a topics to so many people announce they are leaving brand A, B or C DSLR equipment to buy X, Y or Z mirrorless hardware that proves to be "sooo good" that they will never look back.<br /> With mirrorless cameras becoming system cameras targeting the prosumer segment of the market there are not that many ways to make the move than going from DSLR equipment to the new stuff.<br /> One of the point reasons is "weight" that is a fact at a certain level of equipment but no more completely true as there are some DSLRs lighter than some mirrorless, either when it comes to bodies or lenses.<br /> Technological changes are big and tend to favor improvements of mirroless regarding aspects that were seen as handicaps a couple of years ago and this may continue, so this kind of migration is expected to continue, but at the same time as much as mirrorless systems tend be more polyvalent and go up the quality scale the weight factor is diminishing (see Fuji constant F:2.8 zooms and last Sony FF bodies, for instance).<br /> As it happened with the long lasting anagogic versus digital shouldn't it be time to look at these personal choices as they really are?</p>

It's just gear talk on what is really a gear themed board. It's no big deal. There's a sort of sub-community of people who

have changed to mirrorless systems recently and want to share experience and tips.

<p>I have too much invested in the Nikon system to abandon it. However, I have stopped buying Nikon lenses. The last three lenses I purchased were fast Fuji prime lenses with aperture rings. <br /><br />16mm f/1.4 Fujinon<br />23mm f/1.4 Fujinon<br />56mm f/1.2 Fujinon<br /><br />I do not like Nikon's G lenses with no aperture rings.<br /><br /> </div>

<p>Go to the firmware web page again. They just dropped version 4.0, and it improves the AF speed and adds some new AF functions including a better tracking option. (Make sure to delete the firmware files off the SD card before putting the new one on it.)</p>

<p>Earlier in this thread, I recorded that I was getting sharpness problems, especially when using my XE2. I asked whether anyone else was having this kind of problem. No one responded. Should I assume I am alone?</p>

<p>Yet over recent weeks, there has been a remarkable number of very little used XT1s and XE2s coming onto the market. I wonder whether some owners are experiencing what I am?</p>

Fuji just introduced a new model. A lot of people are buying it and selling their X-E's. What AF mode is giving you the non

sharp images?

<p>Also, same thing I told the OP: If you haven't done a firmware update, the AF updates on the newest one (it's up to 4.0 now) over the original firmware result in better AF hits, especially if you're using AFC and want to do any kind of tracking.</p>

<p>This might be helpful.<br>

https://erohne.wordpress.com/2015/06/29/x-t1-firmware-4-0-the-impossible-test/</p>

<p>Many thanks for these comments. Here are mine in response.</p>

<p>1. I doubt whether many people are selling XE2s simply because of new models.</p>

<p>2. My XT1 is performing very well, with the occasional poor frame - for no explicable reason.</p>

<p>3. It is the XE2 that is giving me problems: soft, soft, soft.</p>

<p>4. What is the latest update for the XE2, please? It seems to be 3.0, while the XT1 is 4.0.</p>

<p>Thank you for your help.</p>

Taking a weekend trip with wife in our travel trailer. Got to use the wifi ap with my iPhone as a remote. Wow that is way

cool and will change how I take some pictures in certain situations....the possabilaties. Getting to like the xt1 more and

more