Unsharp images, what am I doing wrong?

<p>If you are using more than one strobe, they might not fire in sync - thus double exposure result. See if you are getting same result with one strobe, also make sure that there is no other strong (video?) light on your model.</p>

<p>A couple of things<br>

1. It looks like camera motion or subject motion since nothing is the field of view is in focus (double catch light, funny looking nose, and a couple of strands of hair that are clearly doubled). What was the shutter speed for the picture above? It may help to see a few more pictures with the details of picture. If you have clearly ruled out camera motion, I suggest you shoot an non-moving subject, like text on a piece of paper. If you are on a tripod and the subject is not moving, and you still get similar results, one of the lens components may be misaligned a bit. <br>

2. On some Nikon camera's it is possible to release the shutter without the camera actually in focus.</p>

<p>ok, here is another shot from the same series. This is a 100% crop, and this is a completely unedited RAW file from ViewNX showing where the focus point was. Clearly the window behind her is what is in focus in this image, correct? Is there anything other than a lens problem that could cause this?<img src="http://www.joemig.com/img/s12/v176/p681172067-5.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p> </p>

<p>Joe, may I make the following suggestions again?</p>

<ol>

<li>Please use a static subject, a wall, a sign ..., no human or animals.</li>

<li>Use sunlight, no (double) flash</li>

<li>No AF. Use live view on a tripod to manually fine tune your focus to eliminate any AF issue. Newer DSLRs such as the D300 and D7100 all have live view.</li>

</ol>

<p>If the lens is fine with manual focus via live view, try to focus fine tune your lens, with the manual-focussed image as a reference to see how well AF performs.</p>

<p>Agreed with Shun, static target, tripod, manual focus, you have 24-70 and 70-200, put both on 70 and try both, should see if it lens or camera problem.</p>

<p>Yes, in this latest photo, I see there is a strong back focus. Anyway, I don`t remember the 24-70 to have such double image bokeh at front (first photo). Maybe.<br /> What is mentioned above; with just two pics, you`ll know if the problem is due to your lens and/or to the AF.</p>

<p>mm Since the background is ok and the model seems moved :<br />Maybe stupid questiosn because i do not own a D7100 :<br>

<br />- Is it possible that you have HDR switched on, since this combines two pictures taken in one shot ( depressing the release button fully once takes 2 shots) ?<br>

- Is it possible that Multiple Exposure is switched on for 2 pics ?</p>

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<p>- Is it possible that you have HDR switched on, since this combines two pictures taken in one shot ( depressing the release button fully once takes 2 shots) ?<br />- Is it possible that Multiple Exposure is switched on for 2 pics ?</p>

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<p>also a good input</p>

<p>No, neither multiple exposure or HDR is are on.</p>

<p>Is it possible that you have the VR turned on while it's mounted to the tripod?</p>

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<p>Is it possible that you have the VR turned on while it's mounted to the tripod?</p>

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<p>That is a good thought, as I have had "motion blur" issues due to VR malfunction, however, not with the 24-70mm/f2.8 AF-S, which has no VR.</p>

<p>What happened to Shun's suggestions? Or is the only test going to be this one, not very useful photo?</p>

<p>There are actually two photos which show the problem pretty clearly. I see no point in posting a bunch more that all show exactly the same thing.</p>

<p>Joe--nobody is asking you to post a bunch of photos. There are really two potential causes of your images looking the way they do: <em>technique or equipment</em>. What people are asking is to see if we can eliminate one of these two. You have said that your 70-200 mm lens works fine on that camera body--shooting under different conditions (i.e., outside with no flash) and it has been suggested that you essentially do the same thing with your 24-70 mm lens (outside, lots of natural light of a static image--nobody is looking for great art here--it's a test of your equipment). If the camera focuses fine in this situation, we can reasonably eliminate the lens as a culprit.</p>

<p>Regarding your flash shooting on a tripod, you said that you used to use the electronic cable release when using a D300, but that option was not available to you with this body. Are you mounting the camera on the tripod and depressing the shutter release using your finger (possibly introducing camera shake) or is there some other way you are taking the shot?</p>

<p>Also, while I tend to be a big tripod user, there really shouldn't be that much of a need to use the tripod in this situation. Shooting at 1/250 of a second -- with a flash firing of a much shorter duration-- your image should be sharp if you locked in the focus before firing. Are you using any sort of modeling lamps (which can help significantly in focusing) or are you focusing in a very low light situation just before the flash goes off? Do you have any shots from this session where the camera is not mounted on the tripod?</p>

<p>Is it possible that the switch on the lens is at M?</p>

<p>Forgive me if I say something too naive</p>

<p>The reason I started using a tripod all the time, and using a remote was because of this problem. My first thought when it started was that it had to be camera shake. I use a tripod with the 70-200 because it's heavy and awkward to hold, and those pictures are sharp as a tack. So, it was an attempt at process of elimination, first using a tripod all the time, when that didn't solve the problem, trying the remote (and you're correct that the D300 cable doesn't work with the D7100, but an IR remote does). Believe me, I have no desire to have to always use a tripod, I hate doing a regular portrait shoot with a tripod. In answer to another question, yes there are modeling and room lights on when shooting in studio, so there is enough light to focus. I have noticed that there are some photos where the camera is close to the subject that seem to focus fine, so it must have something to do with how much of the viewfinder the subject being focused on takes up, if that makes any sense. And no, the lens is not on manual focus.<br>

In any case, I have not had a chance to try the live view, etc. or the other tests mentioned here, the time I can really devote to photography is limited, but I will do it first chance. <br>

Thanks for the help everyone, if I sound rude it's just frustration with this. This is a lens I wanted to get for years, and it was a gift from someone close to me who has since passed on, and so this has some added resonance to me. It is also a colossal embarrassment to have to tell someone after a long shoot "I'm sorry, but most of these photos are out of focus", it just makes me look like an incompetent moron.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>It looks to me like the focus is way out of whack. The window frames in both pics are more in focus than the face. I would return it. </p>

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<p>It's on Single-point auto focus and I used the closest focus point on her face (or her eye if I was close enough) and recomposed slightly if needed, but the focus lock was on her face.</p>

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<p>And you are using a tripod with a ballhead and a remote trigger.</p>

<p>Is it anyhow possible that you do not actually have "focus lock" on her face? This seems to be the case.<br>

How is your camera set up - closest focus point? Try to eliminate this by using a single focus point you choose and control by yourself. (This is my bet.)<br>

Is it possible that those samples are from center focused and reframed shots so that reframing takes the focus plane backwards from the intented subject? (Possible too and more pronounced with wide angles.)<br>

A simple suggestion, as pointed to by others: try manual focus and or live view on static subject matter first to check the lens. Try a simple setup maybe without flashes.<br>

Flashes: is it possible that the two flashes are not synchronized the same way? A delay between the flashes or similar allowing the subject to move during the exposure. (Not the main issue, but maybe worth to check.)</p>

<p>The camera is set to use only a single focus point. While it's possible that she may have moved in some way between the time focus was locked and the shutter was pressed, I can't see that happening for such a huge percentage of the photos. They are really are almost all like this. As for the flash, there was only a single flash used, an Einstein, using a paul buff transmitter to trigger it.</p>

<p>A quick test: center focus point, static subject, focus, take the picture without reframing - check the result.<br>

Do the same with live view - check the result.<br>

Check for differences in two cases above. There should not be major differences.</p>

<p>If they differ a lot, then send the lens for checking again. In this case in might be that the lens internal phase detection AF paramaters are off. This might lead to a situation where the lens is sharp -background- but defocuses severely. And you did check the AF- micro adjustment setting for your 24-70 in the menu.</p>

<p>Not any possibility Paul is interfering with camera-lens communication - test without Paul being present ;-)</p>

<p>Also, do a quick test with that lens outdoors, just for a reference.</p>

<p>You have to learn, how to hold the camera steady or use a heave, sturdy tripod with cable release. You will notice a sudden increase of sharp punctures.<br /> It is also a good practice to learn how to trigger a rifle, to get an accurate shoot. Learn from a sharp shutters. Slow trigger pushing and hold your breath.<br /> Never use a shuter speed lower the the lens focal lenght +0.5 +1.0 ( 50mm = 125s. minimum )</p>