Specific criteria for a new (old) SLR

<p>I'm looking to get an SLR and decided a film slr would be the right option as I have limited budget and the way the camera deals with HDR and low light conditions is important to me. My experience with photography is limited, but I'm willing to play around. I've tried to do my own research into what I feel I want out of the camera, but have reached the part where extensive knowledge I don't yet possess would be really useful!<br>

I plan to use it as mainly for slightly arty shots, probably with a wide angle and a relatively fast 50mm prime. Hence I think it's important for it to have good manual focus options (with metering) and DOF preview. I also plan to take it abroad, without access to batteries for extended periods, so it needs to be able to have either very low battery drain or be able to run entirely mechanically. Being compact and durable would also be a bonus.<br>

AF probably isn't high on my list of priorities, but it seems silly for me not to consider cameras with it, as the range is far larger. I was considering a rangefinder, but looking at prices and it being fixed lens I don't think that's what I need especially being so inexperienced.<br>

In summary a budget slr that has good manual control (esp. DOF), can cope with low light and I won't have to worry about the batteries dying on me. <br>

(Cameras so far considered are:<br>

Pentax MX - Concerned about durability and light meter<br>

Nikon n75 - batteries and compatability with manual lens (how much of an issue is this? can an AF lens be used as a manual?<br>

Nikon FE fm etc. all appear to be a bit pricey here in the uk, loathe to look at minoltas due to age and lens compatability, but maybe I should be more open minded.)<br>

Thanks a lot!</p>

Those are all good cameras. The N75 (AKA F75) would not be on my list for manual use, because it can't use its

meter with manual focus lenses and it's not Nikon's best ergonomics for use in manual mode (it has only one control

wheel, so in M if you spin the wheel you adjust the aperture but you need to hold a button down while spinning the

wheel to adjust shutter). Also its viewfinder is small and not very good for manual focus use. The N75 is happiest with

an AF lens in an auto mode, and if you use it that way it rewards you with very small size and competent automation,

and handles all the current lens tech (regular AF, AF-S and VR).

 

The FM series works without batteries but being honest I don't like its meter readout - it tells you if you go up or down

but doesn't have a needle to show you immediately what to do. The FE series handles that better, with a needle

readout and an auto exposure mode. Both series require a lens with an aperture ring (no G lenses) and work well with

AI, AIS and E lenses, and AF lenses that are not G (though with AF lenses the focus ring usually doesn't feel as

good). I wouldn't stress too much of the batteries issue - they last a very long time, and they're small so carrying

extras is easy.

 

The N80/F80 does not meter with manual focus lenses but otherwise is very good. The N90/F90 does everything

except VR, so that's a good option and you can get one cheap.

 

For what you're talking about I'd also consider manual focus cameras from "orphaned" systems - the ones with lenses

that don't work on any current cameras. Of those, Olympus OM is a good one though the price is a bit premium, and

Canon FD is good though I've never liked the feel of the midrange bodies and my favorite is manual focus Minolta,

because the equipment is excellent and the prices are reasonable.

 

The SRT series is solidly built and heavy, and works without batteries, but for the meter battery you need to deal with

problem of the original batteries not being available and having to come up with workarounds to substitute. My

favorites and the XD11, which is extremely well designed and made (it was a partnership with Leica) and the X570, for

use with the 360PX flash (so you can get TTL flash - note that the Nikon FE2 has the same feature). The X570 has

an excellent meter and is basically an X700, but with the P mode removed a full information in the finder in M mode

added. If you go that route, you need to verify the camera is working because some have a capacitor in them that

breaks easily. Look for the 50mm 1.4 or 1.7 MD lens, the 58mm 1.4 MC or 45mm 2.0 MD, and for wide angle my

favorite is actually a Vivitar lens, the 28mm 2.5 with the large front element that was made in several mounts.

<p>Pentax MX itself is very solid & robust and fully mechanical (no batteries required except for the lightmeter). A Nikon N75 would feel positively toy-like in comparison. Small reservations for the MX would be the top shutter speed of 1/1000 (stuck with ISO 400 film in daylight and you'll be restricted to very small apertures), and maybe somewhat limited meter coupling range for very low light/fast film. It's not quite as compact but in some ways I prefer the slightly older <a href="http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/bodies/film_K/KX.html">KX</a> which had a true analog 'match needle'-style meter in the viewfinder. If flash photography is important, these might not be first choice due to relatively low 1/60 X-sync.</p>

<p>Also worth mentioning that these cameras are pretty old and before setting off on a trip with a camera that's new to me I would probably want to get it CLA'ed (for Pentax, <a href="http://www.pentaxs.com">Eric Hendrickson</a> is well-regarded), and would probably consider bringing two bodies (which might also be handy for loading with two different film speeds).</p>

<p>I think it goes without saying that a 'modern' 35mm SLR that incorporates motorized film advance and/or autofocus will tend to consume more battery power and will usually require use of larger/more expensive/harder-to-find lithium batteries. Some will have available AA battery packs though.</p>

<p>Low-light and is synonymous with a big, bright, 100% finder, LED metering, slow shttr spds, mirror lock-up and, ideally, illuminated aperture and shttr spd data. Consider the Nikon F2SB or F2AS. The FM/FM2n would be good alternate choices at the expense of a few specs. All four models perform flawlessly with or without batteries.</p>

<p>The F2 models: meter up to 8 sec, slowest shttr spd is 10 sec, has DOF, mirror lock-up, does not require a cable for locking shutter 'open' for minutes/hours-long exposures, LED metering, illuminated shttr spd (and ap setting on SB), a bit larger/heavier than FM and extremely durable...classic cameras you can pass-on to your grandchildren. You have in the UK one of the foremost experts/repairman of the F2, Sover Wong, who also sells F2s that are primed for 50 years of service.</p>

<p>Nikon F and F2, Canon F-1 mechanical (not the new Canon F-1 from 1981 on), Leicaflex SL, Pentax K1000 all mechanical, also get a handheld selenium exposure meter and your entire kit will not rely on any battery power. I have and use all of the above recommended cameras.</p>

I think you would be very happy with a MX. This model has an excellent viewfinder. I would send the camera for a

CLA to Eric Hendrickson for piece of mind. There are a huge number of K-mount lenses available.

<p>If you like the idea of a Niikon, and want AF and manual and lots of features, consider the F100, which is versatile, well made, and nowadays can be found at a shockingly low price, considering that only a few years ago it was a thousand dollar camera. If you can afford it, I don't think you'll regret it. If you want flash versatility, these also have fast sync speeds, rear curtain sync, etc.,</p>

<p>For orphaned systems, I'd second Minolta manual focus, because the lenses are common and often very cheap to find used. The X series lacks some fancy features, and have a slow flash sync speed, but they handle nicely, have surprisingly accurate metering, and they're pretty compact and easy to handle. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>You said it's silly to not consider the AF cameras but your requirement that the batteries must last a long time rules all of them out. These cameras require larger batteries and run them out quite quickly as compared to the older MF cameras with manual film advance. Many of these need batteries to function but the batteries last a long time and if you carry spares the batteries are small.<br>

The Pentax MX has very good meter and this is not what you should be concerned about. If you think the FM, FE series are pricey then the F2, F3, Canon F1 would be too expensive for you. The FM, FE are fine cameras. The Pentax KX, MX are also very nice.<br>

Some rangefinders do have interchangable lenses but of course they are expensive.</p>

<p>I would suggest a Contax body but the lenses are getting oddly expensive. They have great viewfinders and are generally amazing cameras. A Contax 167 body is a lot of fun and inexpensive, and an RX is very nice. Having to spend $500+ for a 28-85 or a 35-70 zoom lens is painful, but they are great zoom lenses.</p>

<p>The F100 is the best autofocus Nikon that isn't huge or very expensive, and does well with manual focus. It does require batteries but the batteries are AA so easy to get replacements. (The lithium AA's are good - they don't weight a lot and they're good for many rolls.)</p>

<p>I'm surprised that there are not fifty responses so far. Everyone has their own opinion on this.<br>

I'd just say go with a Contax 139 and be done with it. Small, depth of field preview, all info in the viewfinder, Copal metal shutter, cheap batteries. The Carl Zeiss lenses are great but you can get a good tiny Yashica ML lens at f2.0 and have little money in one which is refurbished.</p>

 

<p>Given that your requirements are contradictory (low,or no power demands,but A/F and on-board metering) there are considerably more than 50 cameras you could consider.<br>

But,it is not all bad -there are a smorgasbord of cameras you have available.<br>

Since I like Nikon, the F100/F90's are very affordable, the 801s/8008s is excellent -but the thing is :they work on AA batteries,which are globally available.<br>

The FM/FE range are also great,but need tiny silver oxide cells - better bring your own (but you could fit a lifetime supply in a lipstick tube). Every major manufacture made many models which would fill your purpose : Minolta/Canon/Pentax etc,etc.<br>

But : check it out before you commit - most of the cameras you will see need new light seals/mirror bumper foam at the very least.</p>

<p>I'm going to have to echo Michael Linn's suggestion, on every point he mentions. The little 50mm ML f/2 lens is a cracker, but you can get a Planar 50mm f/1.7 for relatively little (considering the quality) and you'll never look back. Light seals and mirror foam will need to be checked, but it's an easy do-it-yourself job with negligible cost. If you want to add a wideangle, the Distagon 28mm is as good as it gets, but may be pricey ; however, you can also get the Yashica ML 28mm for about a fifth of the cost, and it's a pure gem.</p>

<p> </p>

<p><strong>Minolta SRT 102</strong> would be my choice. Just have it overhauled and it will last You for years.</p>

<p>Instead of the Nikon N75, why not consider the N80? It is a full-featured SLR, the "poor mans F100" to most. I've owned one in the past and liked it, though the F100 is a far better camera in nearly every respect. But a good F100 body will run you around $250, and a good N80 body will run you less than $100. So your decision. The n90s is another good one, but it cannot operate Nikon G lenses as the N80 and F100 can, so I wouldn't consider it unless you wanted to only use older lenses.</p>

<p>Like everyone else I have my own favorites, but these are based on what I have tried or own, not the whole range of what is available, making the giving of useful advice difficult. I would not suggest you spend too much on a first film camera, as using the camera could open up new directions so you may well need to make a change in the future - I would just make certain that batteries are available and that it all works as it should. If you were to stick to Nikon or Pentax the lens mounts have not changed for a long time, so there are many lenses to choose from. <br>

I would however answer one part of your original post with the comment that Yes, autofocus lenses can be used manually on a manual camera (provided the mount is not different of course) but they are not the easiest to use in that way, usually having little tactile feedback in manual mode and too short a travel to be pleasant to use.</p>

<p><em>Pentax MX - Concerned about durability and light meter</em><br /> True, most light meters will fail without a battery.</p>

<p>For durability purposes, my Honeywell Pentax Spotmatic F, the great, great grandfather to the MX(brought new by me in 1975) still functions as new. I will also say that it's SMC TAKUMAR 50mm f1.4, screw mount lens is legendary. The camera had a CLA once, back in the 1900's, and it's light meter has failed(mercury batteries are no longer made and a replacement for one caused the meter to fail!), but everything else functions as new. The MX was built by the same company, and it uses more modern batteries, and in a pinch like the LX and the Spotmatic F (with shutter speeds 1 to 1/1000, plus B), can be used without batteries.</p>

<p>My Pentax can be repaired, but my extra funds have since been used to purchase MF cameras, for portraits and landscape use, and my 35mm film is now used in a Canon EOS 3.</p>

<p>Good luck with your choices, E. R. Averitt</p>