sanjay_chaudary Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 <p>Hi,<br>I am in india and after running around, I found that it might be possible to import this through Tetenal distributor. Kodak/ Fuji do not sell their small kits here.<br>If I wanted to process 4 rolls at a time and then process another 4 at a later time, what would be the best way to do this?<br>I do not have jobo or any other processing machine. The distributor said that this kit was used by local press before it went digital. Its advantage was that it could be processed at any temperature . Is this true.</p><p>Thanks in advance.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 <p>You always get the best results processing C-41 film at the correct temperature. If you're scanning, you can somewhat correct the errors caused by off-temperature. That doesn't fly for optical printing, but that's getting close to obsolete.<br> In Kodak and Fuji C-41, it's only the developer that has shelf-life issues once mixed. With the Tetenal kit, because it uses blix, you also have shelf-life problems with the blix.<br> There are mini-labs in India, someone must be selling them C-41 chemistry.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterbcarter Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 <p>I keep hearing that but have never experienced it. I develop at room temperature and have yet to see any ill effects. Same results at longer dev times and a whole lot less less pain with temp control. It works well for me.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack_fisher1 Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 <p>From the manual that comes with the Tetenal C-41 Kit:</p> <p>Color Developing times:<br> Temperature 38 deg C/100 deg F = 3 min and 15 sec</p> <p>Temperature 86 deg F = 8 min 0 sec</p> <p>(Rapid) Temperature 113 deg F = 2 min 0 sec<br> The times are recommended for rotary processor. For other processing, the times may need to be modified to meet ones needs.<br> Durability: used developer = 6 weeks - opened concentrate = 12 weeks ("keep working solutions in completely full and well sealed plastic or glass bottles."</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_clayton Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 <p>you can also process C41 at 30oC. for info, i uploaded the instructions to flickr here:</p> <p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulclayton/5171695712/</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ingemar_lampa1 Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 <p>If you mean the powder Tetenal kit, I have heard it is the same as Unicolor which I use, so I will write down my experiences here, if it can be of any help.</p> <p>Googling a bit will give lot's of info and many varying opinions on longevity and reusability, as well as temperatures that work (or not), but in my personal limited experience, I am still on a batch I mixed up on 10/11/2010 and through which I put the 9th roll yesterday. Sample attached, scanned with no editing or colour-correction. No colour shift or other anomalies to report - yet. Some say you can put up to 15 rolls or more through one batch, which is exactly what I will try out. However, as it is mentioned in the intructions, longevity/capacity of the chemicals depend on too many variables (how are they stored, at what temperature, etc. etc?) for anyone to do more than an educated guess on how long they will last.</p> <p>I process in a small hand-held tank, at 35C for 5.75 minutes, per the instructions for that temp. My reasoning is that the percentual margin of error increases with a longer developing time and second: the same is true when using a lower temperature, plus, it is easier to keep it at that.</p> <p>I used to have a Jobo but sold it, because I found that it was overkill to set up and use for one roll at the time. When processing 4 at the time, it may be a different story. A Jobo is after all only a fancy regulated water-bath with a rotator (if we are talking of the CPE, not ATL, models). Takes long time to get up to temperature, requires kitchen counter-top real estate, electricity (full of water...hmmm. Besides, those machines are getting a bit old nowadays, how long will the insulation last?) etc. I usually just fill the sink with water slightly over 35C, then microwave the developer and blix to exactly 35C (takes 2 minutes at the most), use the sink-water for pre-soak and for keeping the tank and chemicals during the processing. I also use that water for the final rinse.</p> <p>I read the Tetenal instructions and they differ from Unicolor where nowhere is increasing development time as you go through more rolls mentioned. Maybe there is a difference between the kits, or maybe just between the intructions.</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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