First time processing b&w (HP5)

Hello - Im about to try developing some 120 HP5. This will be the first time

Ive ever developed film and Im excited about the prospect. I have all the

equipment which was handed down from my Dad including a CPE2 Jobo thermal bath

and containers etc needed for the job. My good old Dad has offered to assist me

in this but he's not done this for about 15 years, although he claims it will

be easy once Ive mastered the dark bag technique on a few practice rolls.

 

What he's asked me to find out is the correct chemicals I need to develop HP5

as he's only ever processed FP4.

 

Can anyone advise me on the developer, stop and fixer (and anything else) I

will need and also recommend a good UK based online store to buy them from.

 

Many thanks in advance.

-Paul.

Developer: D-76 or ID-11. I'm sure someone else will chime in with other choices, but you can't go wrong with either of these. Either will work, and work well, with just about any conventional (not C-41 process) B&W film on the market today. Stop and fix are the same as for any other B&W film too. You might want to pick up some wetting agent. Kodak's PhotoFlow, Edwal LFN, Ilford's Ilfotol Wetting Agent are all good choices to help drying without leaving water marks.

I have recently returned to B&W processing after 20 years. Here on the Falkland Islands it can be expensive to import liquid chemicals. I am using ID11 (D 76 is identical) no stop bath, just a water rinse. I was lucky to find some Hypam fixer at work but had been trying to source a powder fixer to keep carriage costs down. A couple of drops of Fairy washing up liquid is fine as a stop bath, certainly no drying marks. I use Ilfords recommendation for washing, 5 inversions, 10 inversions, 20 inversions changing the water between each. The only problem has been dust but then I am working in less than ideal condotions. I scan the negs and Photoshop gets rid of the spots.

Sorry, the Fairy washing up liquid is used as a wetting agent, I shouldn't submit posts after a bottle of wine!

Take a look at <a href=http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html> The Massive Developement Chart </a> select Ilford HP5+ and all developers and then select a developer that is readily available for your location. Many of the developers listed amy be mix your own from scratch type. I like Xtol diluted 1:1.

Another developer to consider is Kodak HC-110. It is wonderful with HP5

and comes as a liquid concentrate. Just mix what you need from the concentrate. The remaining developer will keep for years! Unless you plan to develop several rolls of film in a fairly tight time frame, you will save money and storage hassles with a concentrate.

in the UK, 7dayshop.com is one of the cheapest places to buy film (if you don't mind waiting a week or so for delivery).

Paul, you've been given some good advice here. I'll chime in with ID11 for HP5. I haven't used

HC110 but hear it's very good. I use ID11 usually at a dilution of 1+3. Kodak's D76 is the

same. HP5 and ID11 seem made for each other. Ilfostop Stop Bath and Ilford Rapid Fixer have

served me well for years. A wetting agent like Kodak's Photoflow is definitely worthwhile.

I buy from Retro Photographic:-

 

http://www.retrophotographic.com/about.htm

 

I use Rodinal, Kodak Indicating Stop (Maxstop), and Ilford Hypam/Rapid Fixer.

I know they're not everybody's favourite store but Jessops do supply chemicals online with D76 at ?1.46 for a one litre pack and also fixer. You can order to pick up at a local store.

I ended up buying 10 packs of D76 to reduce the per pack postage cost -should last me a while. Water is fine as a stop and a drop of fairy liquid in the final rinse will clean up the negs.

The Ilford site has a good guide to processing if you're a little unsure.

As stated before, I just started developing my own B/W 35mm. I chose Diafine two bath developer. So far it has worked very nicely for FP4+ and Tri-X, but I have yet to put some HP5+ through it.

 

Doing your own is a lot of fun. Most difficult thing is to spool film in the changing bag at first. I recommend trying it first in broad daylight to get a feel for it. That means sacrificing a roll of course, but when you actually want to develop something you will have a feel for it.