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How do I do this in PS (samples attached)


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Good evening,

 

Well, I consider myself pretty good at PS. I have been using it for

years. However, lately I have seen a new technique that I am not sure

how to duplicate. So, if any of you have ideas, I would love to hear

them. I don't need detailed instructions. Instead, suggestions

like "curves and then channel mixer" would be sufficient. Oh, by the

way, I am after the color technique in the samples, not the

composition. That I can handle.

 

So, here are the samples. Hopefully the links work. If not, I have

listed the links below. These are NOT my shots (obviously). The

credit certainly belongs elsewhere.

 

Thannks everyone.

 

Hunter

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Is this what you're after?<p>

<p align="center"><img src="http://www.fujirangefinder.com/files/0441/

flowerman.jpg" border=2 width=800><p>

I shot this on color negative film and blew out the highlights and clipped the shadows

using curves. That's 75% of the color effect. I also created a chanel mixer layer, set it

to monochrome, and made it a b&w image. I set the chanel mixer layer to "luminosity"

and the color came back, but with the tonal values selected in the b&w view. I

probably then played with the overall saturation and color balance. The flowers were

given a little extra saturation.<p>

 

But no cross processing.

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Ellis, do you have any examples of crossed negs? Until now I've experimented in crossing

slide film but I haven't been able to get consistent results, especially in the skin tones.

Does crossing negative film give a more subtle result, like in the second example above?

<p>

Hunter,

I've also tried getting similar results in photoshop and I've found no sure way to get there.

Creating a second layer in b&w and using luminosity or overlay will sometimes get it

looking similar to your pics but you don't get the color bleeding. That's something I've

only gotten by crossing or by overexposing/pushing in development. I think a

combination of both give me the best results - pushing and some photoshop work. <p>

You also might want to try a photoshop filter called 50mm, there are bleach bypass and

crossing filters that work to some extent very nicely. Oh, and on other photoshop trick is

to use variations. Using variations allows you to adjust colors in the highlights and

shadows separately. <p>

Let me know if you come up with anything else. <p>

Kipling

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Cross-processing or tweak the curves in a manner BG suggests.

 

There are some interesting threads on cross-processing in the film-forum and I suggest continued discussion about cross-processing be done there, as I know all cross-processers don't read this forum (nor does it really belong here...but please look at the archives first!)

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Thanks for your input Oskar but a lot of us are scanning film before we start tweaking in

photoshop, might be interesting to hear what these people have to say about the film they

are starting with. <p>

BTW, I've read probably every thread on cross processing and there is nothing there that

would make this discussion irrelevant. Some nice suggestions on what films to use, etc.

That's about it.

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Kipling, I remember seeing many discussions about which films to use. In any case I've had good success with Kodak EPJ and EPY (yes, I scan.) Others have reported success with eg. EPP and Fuji RDP. Scanning these films is not hard. I have not yet seen a plugin/action that does the same effect (but hey,I haven't seen everything.)
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First, Thank you everyone!

 

As for crossing, I am not sure what it is, but it certainly won't work for me. I shoot on a D100, so film is out of the question. I do have an extensive film history, but it was from my youth, so I remember little.

 

The look I am going for is similar to the images I provided. To me, they look oversaturated, the colors are bleeding, and they almost seem grainy. I think it gives a nice surreal quality. Yes, they appear obviously doctored, but in this case, I think that is OK.

 

I guess to reshape my question, does anyone have direct tips for how to accomplish this solely in PS? I will try variations (which I suspected would work) and overexposure. Also, thanks for the other tips. Any more that do not involve film would be great.

 

Take care, Hunter

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William, have you crossed different films, scanned and compared them with digital images? A specific effect, such as doing EPJ in C41, is hardly trivial to achieve by Photoshop's curves! And what starting point to use - a film scan or a digital file. Colors might posterize if the starting image is not chosen well. There might not be enough color separation or latitude to begin with.

 

So by all means use curves, actions, plugins but realise that there are advantages to using film directly, too.

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Oskar..........

 

The original question was is there a way to duplicate the cross processing effect in PS. I

give a source for this information. Have you read the source book? There are examples of

crossing both ways using PS, have you seen these?

 

I never stated not to use film, I just answered the question as presented.

 

Oh, and by the way, I was cross processing film in the early 1970's at Rochester Institute

of Technology where I was getting a graduate degree in the science of photography.

 

Any other questions?

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William, I haven't read the book. I've seen dozens of cross-process actions and I have used PS for 10 years, so I don't think two pages from a book would be a huge revelation ;-)

 

And I don't think it's bad to tell a little about the background as well as options to a question. In my first response I quite clearly said that tweaking the curves is one option. So I don't really see why you're pointing out to everyone "read the book" as that's obviously not the only solution. Relax a bit.

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We're having troubles here aren't we William? I don't recall mentioning to plagiarize someone's work. However, if you can't summarize and pass on what you have learned from your exercises, then I think you have done sufficient help for this thread. I can't imagine this place if every answer was 'buy a book'.
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I have difficulty seeing where you are getting at, William. Maybe you should re-read my posts? I can't see where I wrote that the method described in the book wouldn't work. However, I have stated that there are several methods to try, but one must evaluate what suits oneself best.

 

Also, I have a hard time believing that on two pages of a particular book something is described that has absolutely not been described anywhere else. Eric's comments make perfect sense.

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