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Gary Naka

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Gary Naka last won the day on December 12 2016

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  1. REPLACE the battery, BEFORE it swells too much and that tape loop won't work.
  2. Nope For the way I shoot, a power zoom does NOT work. I have NOT used a PZ on a stills camera that I liked and could use. The only PZ that I ever could use decently, was on my father's Super-8 movie camera. PZs either zoom too fast or too slow. My fingers know how fast I want to zoom.
  3. The M is going where the Nikon 1 has gone . . . poof. Once Canon released the APS-C RF cameras, the writing was on the wall for the M system.
  4. If you are going to clean your computer, I HIGHLY recommend that you do it OUTSIDE. I once cleaned a computer in my bathroom, and when I shot a blast from my canned air, a cloud of dust came up, and dust when EVERYWHERE. YUK. I had to clean the bathroom of dust after that. You do not know how much dust will come out, until it does. Next time I did that was at my wife's office. This time I took the computer outside. And the same thing happened. A cloud of dust came up. This time I just let the wind blow the dust away.
  5. The 24/1.7 + 18-140 would make a NICE 2-lens kit. I just wish Nikon had made a F-DX 24/1.7.
  6. At NIGHT, in LOW light, FAST glass wins. Your kit lenses are simply not FAST enough for night time LOW light photography. In LOW light, your camera also has to have better LOW light performance. Your D5000 has a max base ISO of only 3200. The latest D5600 will go up to 25600. The D5600 has 3-stops better low light performance than your D5000. You can improve your results least expensively by getting a FAST prime, a 35/1.8 or 50/1.8. Next would be to upgrade your camera with a camera with a max ISO of at least 25600. Maybe a used D5600. As has been mentioned, you need to learn how to shoot in LOW light. It is NOT easy. And there will be a point where the light is SO LOW that you CANNOT shoot, without a flash. Gud Luk
  7. Even today's sophisticated "matrix" meters miss the exposure. I have plenty of examples of that. There are times when I switch from matrix to the older centerweight meter. You have to learn your meter. I agree. Take a pic following the meter, then evaluate the scene and determine if you should take another pic, and which way to adjust the exposure. Color transparency/slide is brutally unforgiving of over-exposure errors. I used an incident meter when shooting slides. B&W is more forgiving of exposure, but a blown highlight is still unrecoverable. Been there, done that. Grade 6 paper and a prayer. Depending on the scene, some of my better landscape/sunset pics have been with deliberate underexposure, to darken the scene and make the colors richer.
  8. Sounds like your SD9 is not working properly. The lights on the SD9 should operate as the manual says, and you should get significantly shorter recycle time vs. just the batteries in the flash. After all shorter recycle time is whole reason behind the SD9. If you are inside the return window for the SD9, I would send it back.
  9. Just because it is a digital thermometer does not mean it is accurate. If the digital thermometer isn't calibrated, who knows how accurate it is. In the old days, one of the home calibration methods was: bring water up to about 98F +/- It does NOT have to be exactly 98, just close enough for the next step measure water temp with a mercury fever thermometer, I don't know if you can find a mercury fever thermometer any more. then measure with your photo thermometer, and compare readings. CAUTION-1 This only calibrates the photo thermometer to 98F. The accuracy at a different temp could be spot on, or way off. 98F is 28F warmer than the 70F in the spec sheet above, so there is a LOT of room for the temp accuracy to change. I had a calibrated Kodak process thermometer, that I checked my dial thermometers against. Other thoughts: How is your agitation method? If you under-agitate, that could be a cause of under-developing. Are you using a plastic or SS developing tank? If you are using a SS tank, are you using a water bath, to hold the temp of the tank and developer steady? I had not thought of water change as RJ mentioned. They chemicals into the water, to kill the bugs, and for other reasons. Maybe one of those chemicals might be retarding the developer. Acidic water might be acting like weak stop bath, and slowing down the developer.
  10. The used market comes with time. You will find the older Z6 and Z7, but less so the newer Z5, Z6-II and Z7-II.
  11. If you feel the F4 is heavy/big, do this. I did, and the MB20 lives on the F4.
  12. My two-lens DX travel kit: I use the 18-140 as my GP lens. I partner it with a 35/1.8 for indoor low light use. Caution: As you go longer than 140, you have to consider how big and heavy that lens is. Will it get in your way, as a lens that you carry all day? re: Tamron 18-400. My only concern is how stiff the zoom ring might be. The lens has to push a LOT of lens in/out with about a 100 degree turn of the zoom ring. I could not find/determine how much you turn the zoom ring. That requires a STEEP zoom cam. I would like to feel the zoom ring myself, before making a decision. This comes from a bad experience using a Sigma 17-50/2.8. The zoom ring had a 60 degree throw, and because of that, it was STIFF to turn. Because of that, I did not like that lens.
  13. The OpTech harness holds the camera/lens at 2 points. So if one lets go, the other is still holding the camera. I prefer carrying just one camera, but sometimes you just need to carry the 2nd one. Switching cameras is faster than changing lenses. Been there, done that.
  14. A trap that you do NOT want to get into is to get too granular. Example, then you need Nikon, Canon and likely more subsections under - small format film cameras - dSLR - mirrorless cameras It is a tough balance, if you go granular, you can get very specific. But then that section may get very little traffic, and people stop looking there. Example, I would not make a subsection for Nikon rangefinders. It was before I started in photography, but Nikon did make rangefinders. Maybe that would go under "classic manual film cameras," in a subsection "small format cameras," for ALL the old rangefinders.
  15. The section "Leica and Rangefinders" runs into a similar confusion. Leica makes BOTH film and digital cameras; just like Canon, Nikon and Olympus. And Leica made film SLRs and rangefinders, just like Nikon and Canon. The problem is, we have small and medium format camera brands with product in multiple categories. - Film: Nikon F, Hasselblad 501CM - dSLR: Nikon D700, Hasselblad 501CM+digital back - Mirrorless: Nikon Z7, Hasselblads X2D And there are other brands in multiple categories; Canon, Olympus, Pentax, etc. And these companies eventually ending with mirrorless cameras, or gone. - Fuji makes/made both small and medium format digital and film cameras. There is a section for "classic manual film cameras" But again we have issues. The Nikon-F is a fully "manual" film camera, so it matches the section name. But the F-5 isn't a fully manual camera. Nor are many of the later consumer film Nikons. Better to just label it FILM cameras. Or you need another section for "Modern Film cameras." Add a subsection "SMALL format" cameras, for 35mm and other formats smaller than medium format. Or a separate "SMALL format FILM Cameras" section. And you NEED subsections for "other brands/types" that you do not have a specific subsection for. Exakta, Mamiya, Topcon, 16mm compacts, Minox, etc. We have a "medium and large format" subsection under both "DSLR and Film Cameras" and "classic manual film cameras" This one is just as difficult. See the comment above with Hasselblad in three categories. Admittedly the problem is not simple. But mixing different organizations (camera type and brand) and not accounting for technology migration (film to dSLR to mirrorless) is a problem.
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