chuck -

<p>Older cameras often have the foam rubber "bumpers" for the mirror get soft and "gooey". The bumpers can definitely hold a mirror due to their stickiness.<br> Replacing the foam rubber is easy - check the Internet. But you still have two problems to overcome - 1. Getting the mirror free, and 2. Cleaning any gunk residual off of the mirror. A dental tool used on the EDGE of the mirror might free it. As for cleaning, knowing it is a "front surface" mirror makes this a dangerous effort. I would live with the crud or if it is bad enough, maybe try a sensor cleaning pad...<br> One possibility, anyway. I'm not familiar with the camera. Good luck!</p>

<p>That cable is an acetate ribbon with copper "printed" onto it. It can't be soldered; there is nothing to solder to anything. The acetate just melts...<br> Don't know about disabling the AF - haven't read the manual. Most similar cameras don't offer that choice... :(</p>

<p>This thread reminds me of a popular 1970's-80's marketing drive to sell electronic styli to consumers to etch all of their personal belongings. The recommended identifier, of course, was your social security number. Identity theft had not evolved yet!</p>

<p>Another frequent contributor in the past that has been missing for a while is Sarah Fox. I always enjoyed her posts, as well as Lex's...</p>

<p>When you move or copy files with Windows Explorer, Windows wreaks havoc on the "Date Created, Date File Created, and Date File Modified" EXIF information. You can confirm this by checking with Adobe Bridge or Canon ZoomBrowser or ???. Any such changes to the EXIF info are going to affect file size - usually, in my experience, making the file size larger. Very annoying.</p>

<p>And Walgreens has already announced their impending total exit of the film business...</p>

<p>Mary-<br> Try scrolling all of your control wheels (mode dial, etc) to make sure you don't have one in between "stops" - long shot, but I've had it happen with erratic results.<br> Shun-<br> Pretty heady analogy...</p>

<p>After many years (and many cameras) of film photography, I bought my first digital camera in July of 1999. It was one of those "goose bump" experiences where you know things will never ever be the same again. Sort of like the first time you printed a word processor document on a computer - "goodbye, typewriter".<br> Of course, I have had numerous digicams come and go since that first one... But, that first one changed my hobby forever. And, most ironically, what was that first digital camera? A Kodak DC240. Yes, Kodak. <br> How Kodak let the marketplace crush them will be a case study in business schools for the next 100 years. As for my old DC240 - still have it, still works. Not quite as good as my Canon 5DII...</p>

<p>Well, good luck David. I've been on the same quest as you, and I gave up. The issues I encountered included:<br /> 1. The card slots are so shallow that the CF pin alignment "ridge" never gets a good shot - bent pins can result.<br /> 2. The Mobo USB cord is too short (I have a LARGE tower) or specs don't reveal the length.<br /> 3. As you said, superfluous jacks/switches/features that have nothing to do with the task at hand.<br /> As much as I wanted an internal reader, I ended up getting an external USB3.0 Hoodman Steel UDMA Reader. Small, CF and SD only, and blazing fast. Hasn't failed me yet, with a variety of capacities and read/write speeds.<br /> All of the internals I looked at were junk. I found one HP that had great specs, but it was discontinued. It will be interesting to see what recommendations you get for internals...</p>

<p>There are several advantages to going with the i7 6-core, although I think the 5820 is quite enough. The first advantage is going with an Intel X99 chipset mobo, opening the door to DDR4 memory - which would be a boost to Photoshop operations. The second advantage is that some X99 mobos include SATA Express 10Gb/s ports; these will be awesome when SSD manufacturers move up from 6Gb/s units.</p> <p>As for the liquid-cooled debate - I'm on my second liquid cooled and I will never go back to all fans. I don't miss the noise, and I believe that "cooler is better" for all electronics...</p> <p>I agree with others to use WD black drives. With the speed of components today, I'm not sure RAID has a place in a computer anymore. Maybe in an NAS for redundancy...</p>

<p>But even serious photographers sometimes need a small camera. <br /> Both my Canon G9 and G15 have optical viewfinders. 'nuff said.</p>

<p>I'm not sure Bob has a problem - assuming that saying "Photoshop 4, and 6" really means "CS4 and CS6" (considerably newer releases <g>). Merely convert the Mk3 files to DNG. This can be done with the free Adobe DNG Converter, software like DxO, or numerous other offerings. At the worst case, the DPP software that came with the camera will convert to TIF, which can then be further edited in CS4 or CS6. Lots of options to still use the older Photoshop.</p>

<p>Mark-<br> Read the responses to the thread that you started yesterday.</p>

<p>Interesting. A while back, I bought a handful of Sandisk 16G thumb drives. Eventually, 2 of them started giving me the exact same message that you are getting. Formatting fixed nothing. I just started ignoring the message, and everything works fine, but it makes you feel very uneasy trusting them. I have dozens of CF cards, including some Kingstons, but haven't had the message come up on them - just the Sandisk thumb drives. I wonder if something "buggy" develops between the drive ID/MFT and the OS? BTW, I'm on Win 7 Pro.</p>

<p>I have this movement on my 5Dmk2 with a 24-105, on my 5Dmk1 with a 17-40, and on a 30D with a 17-55. Several other L lenses have some rotational movement as well. I was concerned at first but never found a real issue with it. Go, and enjoy!</p>