eric_burgess

Thanks Jesper, Marvin, and Paul - I had read that histogram article before and conveniently forgotten it.

I did some other research on the camera - it comes out of the factory with default settings of +1 on saturation, contrast, and sharpness - probably to match high contrast consumer film. Their higher end digitals come with flat settings on these parameters, something closer to pro film. I will definately change these next time I use the camera.

Used a digital rebel for the first time in a studio setting today. I

did a brief portrait session and used the rebel to set up the

lighting ratios before switching to medium format for the real

shots. As luck would have it, some of the test shots turned out

great.

When I preview the shots on the camera using the rear screen, the

shots look very well exposed. However, when I download them into the

computer, they seem underexposed by about 2 stops - very dark and

low contrast.

I have used this camera with natural lighting before, and have not

noticed this before. I would like to salvage some of these shots.

Any ideas on what would cause the discrepancy? Is there any in-

camera processing that would cause the images to be modified while

downloading?

The Macro lens doesn't allow you to shoot any closer than normal without the extension tubes. It does have a floating element that allows you to correct for edge sharpness. You will still need extension tubes to shoot closer than 1/3 life size.

I have the 180 and extension tubes, and it performs well, but it does get quite nose heavy with that arrangement.

Gamma - on Superior

I second the idea for the 2521 - no problems at all, once I realized to really fill the tank all the way up with chemicals. Follow the printed numbers on the side of the tank - I learned that the hard way!

I travel about 3 times a month, and usually carry medium or large format equipment with me. I usually get stopped for a hand check, but have never had any issues. I usually tell them that it is photographic equipment, and offer to help them (politely) open the different lens wraps and compartments in the packs. I have never had any issues (even the day of that announcement), and usually have interesting conversations with people who mention the camera 'their grandfather used to have' - after seeing the LF gear.

I have 4x5 boxes if you want them - email me off line...

Does anybody have any experience with the Shen-Hao focusing hood? I

am especially interested in ease to attach / remove, and how well it

blocks the light. I currently have a BTZS dark cloth, but am looking

for something to speed up composing shots.

 

Thanks,

Eric

In answer to the Shen-hao, it folds with a small 135mm lens (I have an old Zeiss) - anything bigger and you will have to either flip the lens board or fold without a lens.

 

By the way - I love the Shen-Hao!

I had similar problems with inversion processing 2521 reels (see previous post). Since I have increased the solution from 1200mL to 1400mL (as recommended), the problem has gone away (so far!)

 

Eric

Mine does the same thing. Pretty annoying. Other than that I love the meter.

I just used some Plus-X at 1000 (3 stop push) - I ran out of TMZ and decided to try it - I developed it at 24 mins with D-76 straight. It came out suprisnigly low in grain (actually less than TMZ), but pretty high contrast (no suprise).

 

The negatives were a little tricky, but printable on grade 1.

I second (and third) the vote for the eTrex. It's cheap and does the job. I always bring a hard copy of a topo map if I'll be out awhile, or if I have a specific point in mind.

 

The only negative with the eTrex (and I'm not sure if it is with all GPS units), is it is pretty poor in heavily forested areas. It really needs to have a clear view of the sky. I don;t know if more expensive ones are any better.

I have an Mamiya six folder (old style - Zuiko lens), that I

absolutely love. It has been an incredible user, until recently when

the film advance seems a bit sticky.

 

I have done some adjustment on older rangefinders (Petri's), and I

am not too afraid to open them up. However, I have seen comments

that say that these are very difficult to repair, and are "spring

bombs" waiting to explode when the top cover is removed.

 

Does anyone have any experience opening one of these up, or have an

assembly manual? I have looked at the usual on line sources for

downloading manuals, and only found the newer Mamiya 6 version.

 

I would also be interested in any competant repair person, as I

don't want to lose this camera.

 

Thanks,

Eric

An update - I did call Jobo (excellent customer service, by the way), and really analyzed what I was doing. I had decided a few months ago to reduce the volume of chemicals to 1200mL. It looks like that may have caused the streaks (that's about where the line was). I have since raised it back to the recommended 1500mL, and haven't seen the mark since. I repost if it comes back!

 

I do use the "wings" or whatever you call them. I don't know if they make a difference, but I have gotten used to putting them in.

 

Thanks for all the help.

Help! I have been processing all my 4x5 film with a Jobo 2500 series

drum (hand inversion) for about a year now with no trouble. This

evening I got a strange streak on two negatives.

 

At first I thought it was a light leak, but it is almost identical

on negatives from two different holders. I was processing 4 at a

time, and the other two negatives look fine.

 

Any ideas? I have a lot more to process from this trip, and I am a

little gun shy right now.

Another easy way is to tape some IR filter material over the built in flash and use that to trigger the stobes. Works great - and no tripping over wires!

I'm using firewire with 1.8gig processor, 512MB RAM - about 15 minutes for 6x7.

 

Wish I could speed it up!

Thanks for all your help - I think I'm going to take a peak inside to see the condition of the fresnel this weekend, and I'm ordering a BTZ darkcloth today.

 

Thanks for the good advice!

 

Eric

Okay, I finally made the plunge into LF and bought an old Crown

Graphic cheap. I love most of the differences between MF and LF, but

I just can't get used to the darkness (In my opinion) of the ground

glass.

 

Of course I'm focusing with the lens wide open, but I have a hard

time transitioning between the light outside the dark cloth (actually

an improvised black sheet) and the ground glass. Maybe it's my old

eyes, but I just have a lot of trouble.

 

I think my problems may rest on either the old ground glass (could

that be darker than a new one), or modiying my dark cloth with some

elastic so the light doesn't get around it.

I'd like to stay away from any Beattie brightscreens, because they

are more than I spent on the camera. Maybe on the next one.

 

Any ideas? I can't be the only one that had trouble getting used to

it (I hope!)

 

Thanks!

Can anyone explain the difference between Polaroid 679 and and 669 to

me? I have checked their website, but can't notice any difference.

What am I missing?

Yes, it is Photobition. I had thought that 300 dpi was a pretty standard output resolution, but was shocked when they told me input. Maybe I was speaking to a bad cust. service rep, because I asked her twice.

 

I'm glad to hear you've had good results with them - Thanks!

I searched the archives, but didn't get the answers I was looking

for. I have some 6x7 transparencies that I would like to get printed

at 24"x30". My options are Cibachrome (concerned of contrast buildup)

and scanning to Lambda processing.

The Lambda seems to be the best option, but I am concerned by what

the lab (well reputed in Chicago) is telling me. They claim that they

only need to scan the slide at 200-400dpi to achieve good enough

resolution.

They say anything more is just simply over scanned. How does this

sound to the forum???

One more thing - the shutter release button is in the white position - not manual 1/400 setting.

I just bought a new RZ67 and am confused on the mirror lockup

procedure. It works fine for me at all shutter speeds except for B

and T.

 

I don't have the Mamiya cable, but I am using a regular cable release

screwed into the lens.

I press the shutter release (locking up the mirror), and then when I

press and hold the cable release (should release the shutter and

leave it open), it opens and closes the shutter very quickly (maybe

1/250).

Reading the owners manual, I thought it would stay open until the

cable is removed.

 

What am I doing wrong???