vatovec

I bought my 10d a month ago (used for 1 week for 830 EUROS). I had an assortment of EF lenses which i used on my EOS 50. Before that i used the Canon g3 just to get accustomed to digital workflow (now i sold it).

 

10d is capable of very fine images (though i do mostly portraits/nudes). The image seen here: http://www.photo.net/photo/2870220

was enlarged to 30x40cm and i was very satisfied with the image (shot with the EF 28mm f1.8 lens). But i wouldn`t go any larger than that with 6MP (and even 8MP wouldn`t go much larger). It`s a whole lot different with portraits since there aren`t many important minute details.

So for landscape and/or BW i would go with MF (i also own a Mamiya RB 67 which i purchased used for 500 EUR with the standard 90mm lens).

Regarding noise - it is a problem with exposures over 30s but You can raise the ISO level beyond those You`re accustomed with film, since high ISO noise is very low (it`s a different kind of story if You need to blur moving subjects though).

 

Hope i was helpful - happy shooting!

We got bad news for ya!

This is a non-issue to me too. Try finding those negs on which You shoot Your friends daughter 20 years ago - where shold they be?

CDs are not archival - so what, buy the best You can and make copies in 5 years of those You really care of.

The finish is nearly identical - though i used the ink-jet paper only for color.

 

I print on Epson r200 and choosing the Epson Colorlife paper in the printer dialog box gives excellent results.

I`m with Stephen here, the major differences are in subjective people`s opinions - so don`t worry there is no absolute better way to interpolate (i have GF and PSCS and in a blind test i couldn`t tell the one from the other!).

Candice I have downloaded the software and it says 0 for my 10d, so the number must be wrong.

If this is correct i have taken exactly 0 shots in 2 weeks, WOW!

How large?

 

Nowoadays i use the bicubic smoother in one step exclusively.

Is there actually any difference between an output image from camera RAW and C1 in terms of image quality?

I have also worked till now with Camera Raw, however I`ve been told that the C1 is better.

 

But the workspace is very strange to me to.

Just check the "Supress Open Dialog Box" checker in the "Batch..." command, that should do it.

 

You can also do that via the "File Browser".

What is Bibble?

Yeah, and there are no prices :-)

Yes.

No.

Thank, You Sheldon, that means there is no point to get more MP count beyond some number, which is that number - i just read the Bob Atkins article on the 10d resolution versus Kodachrome 25 (scanned) and there seems to be little difference. So i guess there is no big incremental improvements bejond 6MP?

I know the wide angles from Canon are`t so good as their telephotos. But where did You get those conclusions? If what You said is true the 28 and 35 can`t get 60 lp/mm on the sensor? That`s a rather low figure!

I think i am the ultimate 1dmkII accessory, get me - give me the camera and i`ll do the rest :-))

I`m troubled with the lens part (actually this is a bit off topic).

 

There`s a lot of talk about resolution, sharpnes and digital sensors. I`m contemplating to jump into the DSLR realm but I`m waiting the prices to go down.

 

Does actually anyone know how much resolution can produce certain EF lenses?

 

I have the 28 f1.8, the 35 f2, 50f1.4, 85f1.8 and 135 f2L - do they outresolve the current state of the art sensor in the 1dsmkII?

 

Where are the limits for sensor/lens combinations?

 

I rarely print bigger than 30x45cm (12x18inch).

 

In your shoes I would go for the 1ds, there is to small a difference between the 10d and 20d - perhaps the bigger difference being the almost instantaneous start-up time of the 20d.

No problem whatsoever - i have for one month now, and i didn`t even know what it fixes,...

Just start with the Epson HW Matte profile - for me it worked great and didn`t have even to correct any casts.

Oh no! Wait a minute maybe that 12Mp Sony F1212 digicam isn`t that far away,..!!!!

What about a Zeiss camera? They could market it like Zeiss - overprice it and still have enough market.

You are right in point one and two.

 

For your additional questions - if you shoot in Adobe RGB, You capture more colors ie detail - then You can stretch those colors (or let PS stretch it for you) in the most usable way. When converting in PS from a larger gamut color space to a smaller one PS takes this into account and renders colors in a way that is as similar as one could get from the original.

 

Yes ink jet printers are the limiting factor here (the Fuji Frontier has a wider gamut than any ink jet i know).

 

For the fourth question i think You should buy a book.

Oh Gary BTW I looked at Your portfolio and You have some very interesting images there - You have a good eye for color and form - congrats!

In the ProPhoto RGB space (on certain images not all of them) I can "rescue" the clipped highlits without loosing (clipping) shadow detail and that without the exposure compensation slider. The resulting histogram is much better with the one obtained in Adobe RGB it seems You can just rescue some data that the sensor captured.

I read this tip in "Real World Photoshop CS" (tremendous book BTW) but the Prophoto color space was developed to get the most possible color detail from high end slide scans - it works for RAW (at least for me).

 

Just try it - open an image that has some problems with clipped highlits and then try to change color spaces without any other adjustments and keep an eye on the histogram - you`ll see the difference.