steve_clark1
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Posts posted by steve_clark1
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Yaakof, one thing to keep in mind with spotting dyes is that thier
color can change with time.
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May be that you need to spend some time looking at some really fine
prints...
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Jeff, ordinarily I present a nicely matted and framed print in just a
simple silver aluminum frame, the Nielsens are nice and not very
expensive, and tell the receipient that they won`t hurt my feelings
if they reframe it to thier tastes. Curiously, the only ones that
I`ve ever seen reframed have been gifts to my inlaws...
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Dave, a sense of humor is a wonderful thing, it makes life a lot
better. Just ask some of the "Brits".
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Dang, typing was never a high point either. L-A-N-D-S-C-A-P-E-S
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I shoot landspapes and other things because drawing and painting
never went very well for me and the music that I make is downright
unpleasant! Photography however, I can do...
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Nick, board is pretty much a personal preference thing if they are
both high quality boards. I find rag board a bit easier to make good
clean cuts on. From across a room you`ll have to be pretty darn good
to tell which is which. As for print curling problems, I`ve minimized
those by using a non-hardening fixer, and drying the prints face down
on the screens. Steve
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Pete, I don`t know what he`s doing these days, but I had Dr. Stroebel
as a prof. at RIT in NY about twenty years ago. He taught LF and
other things...
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Who makes a cable release that doesn`t get stiff in COLD weather. To those of you that live in the south, fifty degrees doesn`t count... I`m thinking around zero or so...Thanks,Steve
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Philip, when you find a manufacturer with your long term interests at
heart, let the rest of us know...
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Hmmm...A 617 back from Canham. Will that fit Canham only, or can the
rest of us {5x7 Deardorff} use it too?
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Jean-Marie, I have that lens. Outdoors it is usable with plenty of
light, indoors I`ve generally found it too difficult to work with. I
am replacing both my 75/8 and 90/8 with the new 80mm. For my needs
that seems like a good idea, hope it works out.
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Glenn, thanks for the weight, but thats a little to brief on how it
operates...I`m curious how they arrive at the differant formats on
that holder.
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Ellis, {or anyone else}, Can you offer a quick description on the
ease of use and weight on the Sinar Vario II? Thanks
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"Better image quality" is one of those value judgements that is
fairly difficult to define. Sometimes "better" is a 35mm with a tack
sharp lens, and sometimes it`s the 5x7 with a pinhole or a paper neg.
Steve Clark
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Doug, the upper right is pretty much universal, so that anyone else
knows what`s going on also. Your slides should have a silver or white
side and a black side to them, so that you can keep track of
exposed/unexposed film easier. Also, take note of the "dimples" on
the slides, they aid navigation in the dark. After exposure, turn the
locking pins across the slide and it may keep you from unintended
multiple exposures. Have fun, Steve
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I`ve owned and used a Durst L 1200 over ten years now, it`s really a
fine piece of equipment. No it wasn`t inexpensive then either.
However, if you plan on doing this for a long time, it may be a good
investment.
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As my 5x7 is fairly old, nineteen hundred and thirty eight, some of the holders and slides were getting to the point of not working very well. The easy fix was to pull the slides out and rub both sides with a piece of crumpled up waxed paper. Also doing the outside edges of the holders makes them slide in and out of the camera nicely. Here`s the good part, at this point it does not appear to attract more dust than usual and seems to cut down on static electricity, which may in turn cut down on dust. Those of you that use large wooden holders may see the greatest benefit, as there is more surface area to deal with. I just tried this today, so your actual results may vary...
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While we`re on the subject...What`s a good alternative to tray
processing 5x7? Thanks, Steve
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I realize it`s available 120 only, but what happens when you throw
Verichrome Pan into this same argument? Oops, sorry I meant to say
discussion. I don`t have any idea, as I`ve just started working with
VP yesterday.
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Joe, sounds like you have a "0" shutter and a "1" board...
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Erik, actually I only used it to photograph those objects, never
really thought about those other uses...
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Like anything else, the FA has it`s limitations. If your willing to
live with those limits, the FA is a wonderful LITTLE camera. I use
mine with 75mm through 240mm lenses and rarely run in to a situation
that I can`t work around. It is not an architectural camera, however
I have used it for industrial work, large presses, machines,
etc.,with few problems. "0" shutters work fine on flat boards, unless
you have mittens on. "1" shutters need the board with the extension
ring, it gives another 1/4" finger room. Recently I`ve started using
a "1" shutter on the 25mm "tele" board, it works well indeed and
gives another 25mm bellows draw.
Where to buy shutter parts?
in Large Format
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