GR1664886157

UVC: ultrashort wavelength rays 200–290 nm blocked by Earth's atmosphere UVB: short-wavelength rays 290–320 nm blocked by window glass (also cause sunburns) UVA: longer wavelength rays 320–400 nm blocked mostly by the most obstructive Hoya UV filter There is not much UV bouncing around below 290 to block. The least obstructive UV filter, produced by Tiffen, permitted rays of around 300nm to pass. Would either 290nm or 300nm UV pass through a camera lens?

I confirm I did (yesterday) log out and login again without using a shortcuts. It should have been a new session. I also confirm there is no change in account behaviour. I set the photos to public, and the server reverts them to private (or does not save the edit). Verified behaviour is the same in Chrome and Safari.

I think skylight filters are UV filters with an orange/magenta tint, but in either case, I don't think anyone should base buying decisions on anything I post :oops:

According to research published a NCBI, a 254nm UVC light source was shown to cause fungal deactivation. Light based anti-infectives: ultraviolet C irradiation, photodynamic therapy, blue light, and beyond The following UV filter test results claim that 254nm is blocked by the most effective and least effective UV filters. Hoya scored highest for blocked UVC penetration from 200nm to 380nm. The least effective in the test also blocked the 254nm UVC. In other words the frequency that has been shown to deactivate fungus is blocked by UV filters. UV filters test - Hoya 72 mm HMC UV-0 - LensTip.com UV filters test - Tiffen 72mm UV - LensTip.com With respect to vintage lenses, have I missed something?

Floor of desiccant in the vivarium? :) Perhaps the worst accessory one can add to their camera is a UV filter because any UV filter will protect fungus spores from deadly rays.

I confess, I tried to help by uploading another public photo :( Did you try turning it off and on again? o_O

Something has changed. I currently see only a spinning aperture in my photos, so maybe the server is scoring me.. ;)

This is the nugget that made the penny drop on my end.

To be honest I find the screens annoying dust traps (electrostatic?), fiddly to clean/replace, and never the right one at the right time. Do any cameras have multiple screens to rotate and select the right screen for the environmental situation? Do they offer any eye protection? Is there any harm is just removing them?

The OP's account remains unapproved. I think we have established the process is broken. Here is a screenshot of my profile, which has had 5 public photos many times, and it also not approved: The hypothesis that we need 5+ public photos to be approved is a non-starter: I select "public" at upload, and because my account is unapproved the images are automatically reassigned "private". I manually set "public" after upload, and because my account is unapproved the images are automatically reassigned "private". Admin explained they are not part of this process, and none of us seem to know who is part of the process - maybe nobody is?

There are many types of focusing screen. Most of my focussing screens feature fixed guides and a textured surface - the textured surface makes the viewfinder looks permanently dusty. One of my cameras has a "Micro Prism Split Image" surrounded by various textures in concentric rings - the complexity of the image makes small targets harder to find in the viewfinder. Why does so much engineering go into focussing screens, and what is wrong with simple cross hairs on a smooth surface?

If you have a glass front on the oven it could be for display... :eek: ... or vivarium display cabinets (thermostat with ceramic heater or heat map) are already tuned to maintain a permanently dry 45°C. They even have a little UV. What could be better?

According to Zeiss, "Reduce the relative humidity to less than 60% (never under 30% as it is dangerous for the instrument) by storing ... in a special cabinet whose interior is heated to 40°C (max. 50°C) using a fan heater/ incandescent lamps, thereby reducing the relative humidity" Helpfully, according to FineDiningLovers, "At this point, there are two choices: if you have an oven that can maintain a low temperature, set it to 45 °C. If not, bring the oven to the minimum temperature it can handle, then turn off the heat and wait until it goes down to 60 °C. That way, when we open the door of the oven, the temperature will descend to 45 or 50 °C." ;)

Following-on from the "camera bag" thread where silica gel and desiccants are mentioned, what other fungus killers do you use? I suspect one of the best is sunlight. Direct sunlight contains deadly shortwave UV rays, and the inside of a lens in sunlight would be a very hot greenhouse - I doubt many funguses could survive that kind of treatment. Would UV lights work when sun is unavailable? Longwave UV is used in "detection" and bounces off does without penetrating surfaces, making it a less effective killer. Shortwave is deadly but its expensive - the cheapest source might be pond filter equipment. I am tempted to give my lenses an annual bathing in shortwave UV. What are your views?

Its actually a K-3ii and it does have the latest version installed, although the GX10 still runs v1.0 Latest PENTAX K-3Ⅱ Firmware Update : Software Downloads | RICOH IMAGING :confused:

It turns out there is some bad news to go with the above good news. The above does not work with Pentax K-3. When there is no communication with the lens the K-3 body will prompt for a focal length, which is the same. However, where GX10 has a menu setting to update the focal length, the K-3 does not. This becomes a problem if the vintage lens has a zoom, or if a lens is being swapped over, and so forth. Turning off the K3 does not reset the manual "Shake Reduction" focal length. To modify a manual SR focal length setting on the K-3 the battery needs to be taken out. Compounding the absurdity, having a good grip is important in reducing shake, and the K-3 has a smaller hand grip. The K3 body is only really usable with the battery grip attached. Each time I change the focal length on a vintage zoom lens, to use K3's "Shake Reduction" I need to unscrew the battery mount and open the camera to remove the battery and reboot to get the prompt. Does anyone have a direct line to Pentax's design team to give them a piece of my mind?

Can an analogue flash be used with the K-3 II or does it need something from the digital age - is there a tutorial on this topic?

Maybe, but I have a feeling that such a philosophy could be moulded to arrive at something better than is currently available.

Do you no longer use this approach? In a large bag like a pelican I might be tempted to try desiccant in an old sock, and microwaving to recharge, but how did you recharge them in the field? In my example I had smaller pouches of desiccant stuffed in where they could fit, and they were made of perforated paper-like bags (did not recharge). My gut tells me that what is observed in the hot & humid settings is merely an accelerated glimpse into what will happen at temperate zones given more time. Do you find that is not the case?

That may be a differentiator. I do not view dry cabinet and bag as vastly different because I have been out for 4 months at a time. In my case home storage means exposed on a shelf next to books. Out of my first collection the only gear that survived a rainforest was the GX10 and its original lens, and the experience makes me picky about how gear is packed. My camera and lenses were lugged together in a waterproof backpack with desiccant, but some items faired better than others. I like the dry cabinet idea; ideally like that but mobile.

This may seem daft, but what kind of camera bag do you prefer? My honest answer is none; they all horrify me because they destroy gear. The only purpose-made items I consistently use are trekking pouches that keep things together (batteries, storage cards, etc.) and provide protection within larger bags (e.g. general purpose backpacks, suitcases, etc.) The challenge I deal with is that my camera gear is exposed to atmospheric moisture and changes in temperature. Cold air leads to condensations, and though may not feel like it, warm air has the capacity to contain much more moisture than cold air! Camera components expand and contract with temperature changes, zooms contain moisture that they push/pull from previous uses, and all that stuff is fuel for life such a moulds and bacteria. I do like weatherproof zips, and lint-free linings in case a lens cap accidentally pops off, but the only features I really need from a camera bag is some way to keep moisture-absorbing desiccant close to my gear. In complete departure of what I seek the high-end widely reviewed purpose-made camera bags provide snug fits with nowhere to tactically store desiccant; a shoebox is more useful! What do you use?

It is possible to convert a mobile phone into a low-spec DSLR using a SLR jacket, but its cheaper to buy a high-spec DSLR body. Mobile accessory review: Turtleback iPhone SLR Jacket

Actually, I can refine this. After some playing around I found this version of OPS produces vibrations that can be felt clearly in the hand. Using vintage kit disables the automatic OPS and the camera prompts for focal length. I am using an "extra heavy" combination to achieve 800mm as this is outside my typical range. I just now tried hand-held and there is a notable "rumble" from the camera body when OPS kicks in with this amount of zoom.