cmuseum
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Everything posted by cmuseum
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A chrome nose lens would have a silver breech-lock ring and this one does not look to have one. Given the reflection of the finger I'd think there is a filter on the lens.
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Here are a few things you could try: * Dial in different aperture values and shutter speeds in Av and Tv mode and verify if the value displayed in the finder matches the dialed value. * Verify if the film speed and exposure compensation dial can be moved through the entire range. * Use another FD lens and check if that gets you significantly different exposure settings. * Use an external light meter (or estimate exposure settings by the sunny 16 rule) for a few shots and mix with automatic exposure settings on the same roll of film.
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It's not just the mount that is different but the entire construction. With the New FD bayonet style mount almost the entire lens is rotated. Only the inner rear-most part of the mount remains in a static position. Breech-lock lenses are quite the opposite: The entire lens remains in a static position, except for the breech-lock ring. It is neither bolt-on nor a “conversion” which can be done with reasonable effort.
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According to part numbers, for the very early line-up of chrome nose lenses there have been at least 2 different springs. I don't know for later S.C. and S.S.C. lenses. If I had to make a guess I'd say that more variants of the spring were added with the broadening lens line-up.
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How to assemble Canon FD 24mm 2.8 (breech-lock)?
cmuseum replied to marklee's topic in Canon FD Mount
That's the positioning pin that ensures proper alignment of the lens with the mount. The mount has a slot matching this pin at the 12'o clock position.This pin has always been there since the early days of Canon R lenses and an adapter not having the slot is not a regular R/FLFD adapter. -
Please note that the lower the aperture number is set the smaller is the movement of the ring. The movement is smallest at 1.2 or 1.4 and it is greatest at “A” (or green ring). The force that turns the breech-lock ring comes from a small spring inside the lens that also actuates the aperture signal lever. It's not a very strong spring as the camera has to overcome its force for transmitting the selected aperture number. The breech-lock rings are mildly lubricated and dirt can accumulate or the grease can get stiff. Cleaning and re-lubricating might help. Use very light grease. Theoretically, a mechnical issue with the aperture signal lever could also be the cause. But you already mentioned that the aperture is working well and hence this should be less likely.
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Did you check if there is a film in the camera? It might be wound all the way to its end and block film transport now.
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Left-hand thread is correct. Putting the two tiny screws back in their place can be abit tricky. A longer screw of the same size comes in very handy. If you don't have one try holding overhead. Please note that the lens in the video is the very first, non-SSC “chrome nose” version and might not be entirely identical to your SSC lens. The mount part should be pretty much the same, though.
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Converter A and B can be combined with M39 extension tubes for building R/FL/FD extension tubes: I'd agree that Converter A and B are not found as often as Converter P but they are not exactly rare. These are all more or less recent ebay finds: I think the least common ones are the Converter E (Exakta) and N (Nikon), with the N version clearly being found least often and selling for the highest prices:
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I think that will help only to a degree. Which still is better than nothing, of course. This is a picture of a T90 shutter with the rear shell and the closing curtain removed: The opening curtain rests on this little damper when closed. The damper deteriorates (you can see that it already left some residue on the edge of the shutter blade) and finally the curtain will stick. Same shutter with the closing curtain and the separator plate in place: It's not easy to see but some residue also gets onto the bottom edges of the closing curtain blades. Can this be cured? Well, unless you know where to get a spare (or how to make one, you 3D printing geeks) the damper can only be removed. But I don't know if the potential overtravel will damage the curtain over time. I haven't tried that. Disassembly down to the shutter requires unsoldering more than 30 connections. And I haven't found the time to do the reassembly yet.
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Position of the aperture signal lever matches the selected aperture value. That makes me think the mount was correctly assembled. My next step would be removing and inspecting the diaphragm unit (again).
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Use a macro focusing rail and focus by altering subject distance. Don't use the lens for focusing. Use a magnifier or an angle finder with magnification. Close the eyepiece shutter when taking a picture. (This won't help with focus, though.)
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The pin indeed looks a bit worn. This is a close-up of a used but good one: The pin height should be 0.8mm. When the ring rotates the pin needs some room to move down the notch. So for the two extreme positions I wouldn't be worried about this position.
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Here are some images of a New FD 28mm 1:2.8 (S/N 56xxxx range) with the mount removed: Aperture ring set to 2.8: Aperture ring set to 11: Aperture ring set to 22: Aperture ring set to A: Incorrect setting (lug of inner aperture ring does not match notch of outer aperture ring), don't assemble this way: Try the same configurations with your lens and compare. Pay attention to the position of the outer aperture ring, the inner aperture ring, the cam ring and the small lever actuating the aperture blades (11 o'clock position). The outer and inner aperture rings are linked by a lug (3 o'clock position in first picture) that can slide up and down while the mount is removed. It tends to disengage, watch out for it. The inner aperture ring and the cam ring are unlinked while the mount is removed. Look at the inside of the mount and you will immediately see what part fits the lug of the cam ring. Make sure they are match properly when reinstalling the mount. The small lever should always be touching the cam ring. If it is not, check diaphragm unit (again).
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When you do keep the release button pressed, does the camera deliver the selected shutter speed? Or does the shutter stay open as long as you keep the button pressed?
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Canon FD aperture issue on Sony E mount adapter
cmuseum replied to andrealivigni's topic in Canon FD Mount
Does your adapter have an "open/close" or "lock/unlock" switch? Do you set this switch to the proper position before attaching it to the lens and do you engage it afterwards? Can you maybe post a pictures of the adapter attached to the lens and the lens set to f/2.8 and F/22? View from behind into the rear of the lens. -
I have marked the part which is moved by turning the AV/TV dial in the picture. TV mode position in this picture. AV mode position in the picture I posted above (Oct 8). Try moving that part left/right. And check the pin at the bottom side of the AV/TV dial ring for wear.
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Where does the needle move when you press the battery check button (shutter dial not set to "A")?
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If the shop was able to fix it, please post how they did!
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Hi Moriz, never have had to deal with this issue. But this is what I would consider in an attempt to track it down: Both, "battery check switch pressed" and "brightness value" are processed through IC2 and IC2 is then driving the meter. So the common components I would concentrate on are IC2, the galvanometer and the wiring inbetween. I would unsolder the galvanometer wire and try to check the current flowing through the meter. I would also try driving the meter using a separate power supply. (A current flow of 459 microampere (microampere not milliampere!) at about 2V should drive the meter needle to "f8"). I would hope to understand whether to further look into the galvanometer or to continue with IC2 and SV board to main board connector. Dirk
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This is my personal recipe for stubborn retaining rings. YMMV. If there is locking paint, carefully remove it using acetone. I couldn't spot locking paint at my 100-300mm 1:5.6's retaining ring, though. Carefully clean the filter thread using a drop of lighter fuel. Use quality spanner wrench. Don't use the China ones. Micro-Tools has good ones but they are pricy. Alternately apply loosening and tightening torque. Carefully heat the front barrel of the lens. Use an adjustable heat gun, not your hair dryer. Find a piece of round wood that fits the ring without geting in contact with the barrel or the front lens. Apply a few light hammer strokes just onto the ring. Let a drop or two of thin oil soak between the barrel and the ring. Some cleaning required afterwards. Be patient. Try again next day.
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Correct, the washer goes right under the dial. There is another smaller (but optional) washer that goes between the AV/TV dial and the release button. Apart from the thickness of these washers (3 different sizes were available) there is no adjustment. From the picture it looks like the camera has seen quite some use. The dial or switch mechanics may be worn and one or both may have to be replaced. To give you an idea how the actual AE mode switch assembly looks like (the actual electric switch being a wiper that in AV mode connects the two gold-plated contacts barely visible at the bottom left corner of the PCB): Can you be more specific on this? Not firing as after replacing the battery door or entirely dead now?
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Canon New F-1 Slow Speeds Shutter Problem
cmuseum replied to akamizukotaro's topic in Canon FD Mount
Never have experienced this issue myself but AFAIK could be an issue with the resistor board, contacts between the main PCB and the resistor board, release magnet or transistor, bulb switch. Checking any of those requires different levels of disassembly. Repair could range from cleaning contacts to replacing parts you can only source from another New F-1 body. Cost of repair may range from reasonable to uneconomic. It may be better to return it or sell it for parts. -
EUR 70 for a New FD 70-210mm f4 is too expensive. Depending on where you live you should be able to find a good one for EUR 25 to EUR 50 (incl.shipping) on ebay. EUR 70 for the 50mm f3.5 Macro is not a bargain either but still reasonable.
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Weird. This pin usually does not fall out. Could mean that something with the switch is wrong. You will have to remove the front cover (four screws) and the body mount (another four screws, secured with a drop of bonding agent). Caution: There can be small shims under the body mount, don't loose them and replace them exactly were they were!
