Jay M
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Everything posted by Jay M
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Using A Teleconverter On Nikkor 300 f/4.5 ED-IF AIS Lens
Jay M replied to Vincent Peri's topic in Nikon
D300s tripod held with mirror up for the 300 4.5 ED-IF with both TC-201 and TC-14B at three different apertures (4.5, 8, 16), and don't owe the TC-301. Overall, TC-201 results are really good especially at wide open, while TC-14B does stand out with its well-known excellent optics at all apertures. Compare them for yourself and hope this helps. F4.5 TC-201 TC-14B F8 TC-201 TC-14B F16 TC-201 TC-14B Jay -
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That is correct. According to comparison as shown below the one for sale from the link is for ED-IF version, which's not suitable for the non-EDIF version.
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No switch needed. The light received by the light sensor sitting behind is measured with the physical measurement unit attached in its way supposed to measure, i.e. the Lumisphere doom for incident and Lumigrid flatscreen for reflect light measurements.
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Speaking of my own experience from MANY (least 10 plus) years ago about the 28 2.8 Ai-S lens for removal of fungus on the very last rear element with some coating repair as observed, by APS (don't remember exactly which one but sent to somewhere in mid-west of states as recalled today), and job got done very well like new and still the same look, feel and results as day one after repaired, cost wise, was around 150 dollars back then.
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Yes, no film, fire the shutter btw A and B modes until meter turns back on.
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Worth to try as I encountered the same lately with my FE2 then what I did was to remove batteries and clean them up with alcohol, reinserted, then fired dry shots numerous times btw B and A, meter came back on.
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Recommendations for budget single strobe kit
Jay M replied to lindsey holland's topic in Lighting Equipment
To the budget you should be able to get couple of SP Studio Systems 920 (Series 100) or SP920 strobes used, with any sized soft-box(es) and stands (cheapo one) plus couple of YongNuo's RF603 triggers, from ebay. -
Nikon FM10 mirror gets stuck when pressing the shutter button
Jay M replied to karlivanremonde's topic in Nikon
Just wondered how did you tell know mirror stuck halfway, not all the way with lens attached … did you see a total dark or partial reflection of view through viewfinder? -
Use couple of Q-tips and white vinegar (general purpose one from Costco) to apply to the edges around battery door for a while, should work.
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With new holder (MS-12) and a fresh set of batteries (both regular and rechargeable Duracell) and no apparent corrosion in battery compartment I am experiencing the same problem on a F100 unit today (no power on when turned on), any update on this subject please?
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Checked other models that F4 still has it but 8008/s and 90/s already removed it, looks to me that once the nobs and dials were gone so was this switch.
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I am encountering the same problem with an F5 as OP described now and wondered if the battery update can be posted from anyone here who has tried and succeeded with NiZn or Sanyo (Panasonic) AA batts? Btw, I've tried Sanyo's rechargeable and Duracell regular batts fresh and no luck. The VF is functional and battery tray's no issue whatsoever as tested, and without VF body won't power on either (first thing first, "E" does not appear on top LCD panel before power switch being turned on).
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Original battery cell from Japan was one piece (not confirmed but I do see one) instead of two button cells stacked together, then there's a small chance of battery dimension deviation from batch to batch time to time that the one on bottom not sitting perfectly to cause shortening as found out myself over years (not on one body) that only one of two cells gone dead zero and the other still full. In another word, it may be of "defective" battery not the holder.