bobpeters

Make doesn't matter. Compur and Copal #0 and #1 shutters conform to the #0 and #1 standard. Type of shutter -- self-cocking, cock-and-shoot -- can, but not for the 58/5.6 Konica Hexanon/Omegon.

Did Wollensak make a #0 Rapax shutter, and did they use it on with the Wollensak 101/4.5 lens?

Bob, all #0 shutters will accept cells from a 58/5.6 Konica Hexanon/Omegon.

 

Only cock-and-shoot #0s will accept cells from a 60/5.6 KH. Press shutters have the diaphragm set farther back that cock-and-shoot shutters. The 60 KH's rear cell will foul a #0 press shutter's diaphragm. The 58's rear cell (different design) will clear. I have both lenses and both types of shutter.

 

Look at short lenses for 2x3.xlsx It is a list of lenses with focal lengths 65 mm and shorter that cover 2x3 (= 6x9). Most concerned about whether they can be mounted on and focused to infinity on my 2x3 Graphics. Incomplete like all such lists but I don’t think anything significant is missing.

 

So, it doesn't matter if it's a Copal or a Compur for example?

Will all #0 shutters take the lens elements out of a 58/5.6 KH, or will only certain brands and models work?

Can you Modify a Paterson reel to take 2.25" sheet Film, or is the taco method the only daylight development method?

I’m still not understanding what you’re trying to do. Fit an LED in place of the flashbulb, fit a new flashbulb or what?

 

White LEDs need around 5 volts minimum to deliver any useful amount of light. Flashbulb firing circuits usually put a charged capacitor across the bulb to ensure reliable firing, with a resistor in series. So i’m not sure the flash circuit will light an LED without modification and without making it unsuitable for its original purpose.

 

Besides, how are you going to hold the firing button down and be at the camera position, as well as having a hand free to focus all at the same time?

 

Fit an LED for use as a flashlight that is attached to the camera. I have made a cord from a old lamp cord that I installed a toggle switch on that goes into the remote socket of the flash unit. I had to grind down one blade of the plug as one of the blades is narrower than a standard blade, and grind down part of the body to clear the ejector "button", as it was a no strip plug. It's a Heiland Flash Handle with 3 D Cells inside. Making it light was the 1st thing I figured out, getting a way to mount a light is another problem.

I got a Harbor Freight battery powered 27 LED Worklight, that I'm going to attach to an E10 Base I have.

The voltage matters not. It’s the power (wattage) that’s important. Too much and the temperature will overshoot its aim point and oscillate for some time before stabilising. Too little power and an inflow of cold water will drop the temperature for a long time.

 

IME a heater power between 150 and 200 watts/gallon or 30 to 40 watts per litre is about right.

 

Efficient mixing _ i.e stirring _ of the water volume is also needed for temperature constancy. Relying on convection turbulence won’t be good enough for process control.

 

What exactly are you trying to achieve Bob? Wash water, for example, doesn’t need a constant high temperature. As long as the water temperature only changes slowly, it can be brought down to ambient for the majority of the wash time.

 

OTOH an immersion water jacket doesn’t usually need as large a volume as 6 to 10 gallons but does need a very responsive thermostat.

 

Fixing and development,not wash water.

Sorry Bob, but why would you go to all that trouble when a little LED keyring light can be bought for peanuts, or a CREE flashlight for slightly more than the bare high power LED chip would cost you?

I meant open it up to use based bulbs. It's a three D cell Flash Handle that attaches to the side of the Busch Pressman Model C with a track, and is about 4.5V at the socket.

Would it be possible to use a 120V compact Water Heater, like around 6 or 10 gallons, For temperature control? I know that you would probably have to change the thermostat out with one that could go down to 80F, and I know you can do it with mixer taps, but it would be easier if you didn't have mess with adjustments.

I have a couple 3 quarter used GE Flash cubes, and I plan on using the last two quarters. But after that I plan on installing LED's in at least one of them to use my flash handle as a light for focusing on the ground glass at night. I have the Honeywell Bayonet to Flash cube adapter and a Medium base to Bayonet adapter. So is it possible to open one up to install LED's in, or though the casing, and to contain the connections?

Bob, B&J didn't make Busch cameras. Busch made Busch cameras. B&J made B&J cameras. The B&J camera most like the 2x3 Pressman is the 2x3 Watson.

 

Lens cells often unscrew easily from the shutters or barrels they're in.

 

In the world of press, technical and view cameras manufacturers sometimes sell cameras complete with a lens (this is more common with press cameras than with technical and view cameras) but press cameras were offered with no lens. Whatever the customer wanted, the customer could get.

 

Whether y'r 90/6.8 Carl Meyer lens was original to the camera -- it almost certainly wasn't -- is of no importance whatsoever. It can be used on any press, technical or view camera that can focus it to infinity.

 

To get an idea of lenses that can be used on 2x3 press cameras, please read http://www.galerie-photo.com/telechargement/dan-fromm-6x9-lenses-v2-2011-03-29.pdf. I haven't owned or tried all possible lenses.

I know that it isn't original, as the camera came with a 101mm Wollensak, but it would be possible to have bought a lens that was on a B&J Watson, and the lens and shutter were sold used separate of the camera, and the lens was installed on the Pressman board. Does anybody know if a B&J Watson lensboard has screw holes around the lensboard hole.? Thanks for the link.

Bob, cameras and lenses have been sold bundled and unbundled since time began.

 

The Pressman Model D is a 4x5 camera, is much larger than a Model C and doesn't use the same boards. Busch manuals here: Bush model C, Busch Pressman, instruction manual, user manual, free instruction manual, pdf manuals

 

11 mm focal length? Look more closely at the engraving. 11 cm is very likely.

 

All thumbs and then some, there's more than one make, and model of 90/6.8 lens. The OP hasn't told us enough about his lens. It could be an Angulon, an Angulon clone, any of several 4/4 double Gauss types, a real Dagor or a Dagor clone (I have a 90/6.8 Beryl) or even (unlikely) a 90/6.8 Grandagon or Super Angulon.

 

I meant 101mm. I've never seen a Model D in person, which is why I asked. I was thinking that B&J would only sell lenses with it's cameras, as they made them from what they had, and not in any certain way, other than focal length. All the 90mm lens says on the front element is "Carl Meyer Wide Angle No 24450 90mm F:6.8" The elements are easily removable by hand, meaning it might have not been attached to this lensboard originally, and was installed on a different camera by an owner, as the mounting flange has three recessed screw holes in it, that don't match up to the lensboard.

Probably a Gauss design that will cover 3 1/4 x 4 1/4 and maybe 4x5 with soft corners.

What is the smallest f number/largest aperture ? Any trade name?

Probably from the 1930's to late 1940's.

A Lens Collectors Vade Mecum does not list a 3.5 inch/90mm wide angle lens, it does list 3.125 inch and 4 inch f6.3 along with longer focal lengths that have a 105° angle of view. Probably on par with 90mm Angulon, Optar, and others of the era.

Put it on a camera and ask it how good it is optically, it will not lie.

 

The smallest f number is 6.8. The camera is a Busch Pressman Model C that has a Vue Focus rangefinder on the top, and quick change lensboards, so it's 1948/1949 or later.

Bob, Carl Meyer is a Burke & James house brand. B&J didn't make lenses, they bought lenses, some scrap or rejects, badged them and sold them. Some are fine, others aren't. The only way to know whether yours is a treasure or a clinker is to ask it.

 

Compur Rapid shutters were made from 1934 to 1951.

 

Asking whether your lens is good or bad is silly. You have it, no one else does. Asking whether a used lens has a good reputation is nearly as silly. Quality control isn't always stringent so lenses of the same make and model weren't always equally good when they left the factory. Used lenses have sometimes suffered abuse, some worse than others. And no two people work to the same standards. What's not good enough for me might be better than good enough for you. Or vice versa. The only way to find out whether a lens will suit you is to ask it.

 

The normal focal length for 2x3 is 100 mm. A 90 mm lens is a short normal lens for 2x3. I'm glad you were able to get it for free, but if y'r Pressman already as a 100 mm +/-- lens a 90 won't expand what you can do very much.

 

Did B&J sell lenses separate of the cameras, or did they only come with a camera? My Pressman came with a 101mm lens installed. Does anybody know if the Model D used the same lensboards, as it does seem weird to have a lens with in 11 mm focal length?

I got a Carl Meyer 90mm Wide Angle lens in a Compur-Rapid shutter yesterday. Is the lens any good, and do some of the

Compur-Rapid shutters have a wire shutter release? I got the lens and the Pressman Model C lensboard it was mounted on for free. It doesn't have a threaded cable release socket, but something that looks like a PC socket, but smaller. It doesn't have a flash sync selector.

They only made the #029 up to a mkii, and the differences were in having a red rubber grip on the levers/twist locks, a plastic QR safety latch rather than all metal and a slightly smoother action.

 

I think I got confused by the Bogen numbers. It looks like the 3039 was in production in parallel with the 029 model for some time, rather than replacing it. The 029 and 3039 look quite similar, but aren't exactly the same. The 3039/229 has bronze bushes on the locking grips and a slightly beefed up tilt pivot. In operation and carrying capacity they're about the same and take the same hexagonal "quick" (not!) release plate. The hex plate is the worst part of the design and can be mislocated if you're not careful, with a risk of popping off the tripod unexpectedly. It's secure enough as long as you double check that it's seated properly. The hex plates were available with either rubber or cork facing. IMO the rubber facing is more resistant to the camera twisting.

I mistyped MK3, and mine does have black rubber grips with red centers, My release plate is rubber, or at least it's black.Mine appears to have bronze bushes where the handles enter the tripod head.

The Manfrotto 229 replaced the 029 mkii head sometime after 2008. I came across this old classified ad.

 

About 20 years ago I bought a used 028 tripod with 029 head. So the 029 (mki) obviously pre-dates 1997. The head was a bit tatty with a bent control arm when I got it, and I recently had the opportunity to buy an old stock 029 mkii at a price I couldn't refuse. The 029 mkii now appears to be discontinued in favour of the 229. So I'm guessing that a 229 can't be much older than 10 years, and probably more recent than that.

 

I wouldn't worry about your Bogen head's age. My old 029 served me well for 2 decades, and I expect the mkii to outlast me. Just use it and clean and regrease it occasionally.

 

BTW, the 029 head has supported everything I've thrown at it, from a DeVere 5x4 monorail and an MPP 5x4 technical camera through various MF cameras and down to full frame DSLRs. The 229 looks even sturdier.

I'm not worried about the age, I'm just curious. I know that the legs it's on are from 1978 to 1982. What's the difference between the 029 Mk1 and the MK3?

So when did they Bogen start selling it, or Manfrotto start making it then? I knew that Manfrotto made it, and the head does say made by Manfrotto, meaning it could've been made during or after 1993, as I think Manfrotto bought Bogen then.

Put the feed spool in the holder, using one finger to keep the film from unwinding.

 

Pull out enough backing paper to reach the end of the holder plus a little.

 

Completely withdraw the dark slide.

 

Push the end of the paper around the roller and slide it across the front of the holder. There's no pressure plate, the backing paper goes in the grooves at the top and bottom of the gate. You'll have to inch it.

 

Close the holder. If you prefer, you can close the holder before you start inching the paper through the gate.

 

Attach the backing paper to the take-up spool. This can be fiddly.

 

Re-insert the dark slide, leaving a small opening at the insertion end of the holder.

 

Advance the film until the tape holding the front end of the film strip to the backing paper is just visible.

 

Insert the dark slide completely.

 

Advance the film five (5) clicks of the film counter.

 

Set the film counter to "1".

 

Ready to go.

 

After taking an exposure, insert the dark slide completely and advance the film four (4) clicks of the frame counter. Ready for next shot.

 

Using this loading procedure will give nine shots per roll.

 

Thanks, I'll try that next time I use it, and will print it out for future reference.

Go to www.graflex.org, read the Speed Graphic FAQ. I wrote the AAR 620 section.

 

If the cam and rod and ratchet mechanism doesn't move freely or the roller at the insertion end of the holder doesn't turn freely, lubricate with powdered graphite. Don't use oil.

 

I have a small pile of AAR 620s and use them in my 2x3 cameras. I put 120 film on a 120 spool in the feed position, take up on a 620 spool, rewind exposed film to the 120 spool before sending it to the lab.

 

I use dead rolls of film for testing the devices, rewind them for more testing. After a number of unwind-rewind cycles the film won't stay tight on the spool. New film shouldn't be a problem.

 

I read the FAQ and have the manual, which doesn't that say much more than what you said. When I did load it the counter didn't work at first, but started working when I went into the roll, like if the film was getting tighter as I was winding it. How much safety paper do you pull out when you load it? I pull out the about 8 inches of the safety paper, which is what it says in the manual, and the paper is loose on the counter roller, and not tight like is should be. Should the paper be on the top of the pressure plate, with a little roll at the end for the counter roller like in one of the pictures on this page: Restoring Speed Anniversary ?

 

Do you attach the end of the paper before or after installing the supply spool? In the manual the paper gets attached after the spool goes in, and I wish I had three hands, as it seems that you need three hands to install the spool while keeping the tongue of the backing paper from slipping back down.

How to load an Adapt-A-Roll 620, and how do I know if the film counter needs lubrication? I have an Adapt-A-Roll 620 that I'm having a hard time getting the film to stay tight on it. The instructions are kind of hard to understand, though I think I get that you have to bring the end of the backing paper to the end of the holder, then attach it to the spool. When I tighten it by hand, it loosens up when I let go of the spool, so the paper has a gentle "arc" over the pressure plate when the holder is open. Also how tight does the film have to be to work the counter reliably?

When did film get fast enough to allow fast enough shutter speeds to "freeze" motion, and not have objects that moved "disappear"? I have a couple really old pictures of a horse and buggy or carriage with a couple people next to it, and the horse is missing his head because it moved.

Check this: Lomography Diana F+

 

What they say seems good advise. What they don't say, though...

 

Some people leave the band on the film when they put the roll into the camera. I take it off but hold on tight to make sure the film doesn't unspool

 

When pulling the film/paper from the supply spool to the take-up spool, only pull out the amount needed to get from spool to spool and engage correctly. Not too much; not too little.

 

Load in subdued light.

 

I'm not sure if Diana has a dot to align the arrow with or not. If not I have no idea how Diana knows where the film starts.

The Diana uses a red window on the back, as it doesn't have a built in film counter.

When did they make the Bogen 3039 under the Bogen name? I know it's still made as the Manfrotto 229, but mine says it's a Bogen 3039, so I think it's an earlier one.

press shutters are self-cocking. Pressing the shutter release first cocks and then fires the shutter. cock-and-shoot shutters have cocking levers and release levers. Cock the shutter with the cocking lever, fire it with the release lever.

 

Undesireable lenses are lenses that are in low demand. For example, most tessar types.

 

2x3 is generally considered medium format, not large format. But 2x3 press cameras are small versions of 4x5 press cameras and 4x5 is seen as large format. It you want to learn about LF photography, go to www.largeformatphotography,info and read the FAQs, Ask questions in the forum. photo.net is a poor source of information about LF photography.

 

There are also books, IMO more can be learned more rapidly from a good book than from short often half-assed answers on forums. Two books that are often recommended on LFPF are Leslie Strobel's View Camera Technique and Steve Simmons' Understanding the View Camera

 

 

The shutter on the camera lens that's on it is a cock-and-shoot shutter, meaning I'm already used to cocking my own. I also have one other camera with a cock-and-shoot shutter.