d_g

<p>Considering the 80CB, i've bought one after conducting a comparison with a 80 Cfe from a friend of mine !<br>

The 80 CB is as good if not better in the center, but performance decrease in the abgles of a 6X6...<br>

because iv'e intend to use it with a digital back (36x48), i've bought it on the spot!<br>

The 60 CB is similar to the Cfi without the F position and the nivarox stuff... nothing to worry about with a V...<br>

The 160 is harsch, the bokeh isn't nice, but at F11 is really sharp, and less weight than a 180.</p>

<p>i've read many things about CB lens... and test some !<br>

the 60 is similar to the Cfi<br>

i've compare a 80 Cfe and a CB... the problem of the CN being contrast in the angles of the 6x6... i've found it to be better than the Cfe with my digital back (36x48mm)<br>

i've test a 160, and wasn't really impress... it was ok at F11, otherwise not a nice rendering</p>

<p>Now, i'm in the process to buy a 120 macro for artwork reproduction (3D) and macro </p>

<p>is the 120 CB similar to the Cfi ? i can't find any data for that lens !<br>

I've read that the Cfi is less prone to flare than the CF... so i skip the CF... but Cfi still quite expensive.<br>

I've seen a 120 CB for 800$, but i need to make shure that is as good as the CFi....</p>

<p> </p>

<p>is there a way to adapt an HVM viewfinder for Hassy V camera ?<br>

if just bought an hasselblad V chimney and i've find it to be unsuable with glasses...</p>

<p>If you want to see the mtf of a lens with <strong>no distortion</strong> ...</p>

<p>the 100 cf is perfect in this regard !</p>

<p>for portrait i will go with a 100 cfi (maybe too sharp) or a 120 makro cfe.<br>

considering the back, i think that for portrait the waist level finder is a must, so if you wants to shoot in "portrait" orientation, then the new CFV39 isn't for you... it does not allowed to be attached this way, so you have to turn the camera..</p>

<p>leaf and Phase one backs in V mount can be used in both ways !<br>

not a problem with the previous CFV because it was square !<br>

backs are compromises, something like a P30+ is a good option if you want to shoot at 200 iso... but for architecture, it's the worst choice... horrible thinks happen when using movements because of the micro lenses !</p>

<p>For your purposes the 55mm Apo Sironar Digital is the best performer.<br>

Yes i know, i used it with great success... if i was shooting film again, i will use that one too !<br>

The 55mm 4.5 Apo Sironar Digital covers 125mm at f11<br>

this numbers are for the digital use, but when using film, the IC is similar to the apo grandagon !</p>

<p>The digital lenses are different then the film lenses, right down to their coverage.</p>

<p>yes, but for exemple i can say that the 55 apo sironar digital covers 4X5... so this values are for optimum sharpness...</p>

<p><em>Also they resolve higher and hit optimal aperture sooner...</em><br>

Yes, but anyway with my type pf macro work (art work) i need to increase the deph of field... <br>

<em>The digital series of lenses are designed so that the light rays hit the sensor at the best angles</em>.<br>

we are talking about a 120mm that will be use for macro (240mm of bellows for 1:1)... and when you see how a 35 xl digitar perform, or even a 45 apo grandagon, i suspect that the light rays hit the sensor properly with any 120 mm lens !<br>

under 55mm, i will go for a digital lens without hesitation... but there, i'd like to see real user reports !<br>

Where can i find the mtf of both lenses to compare ?<br>

Is the 120 digital the same lens as the plain macro but with a different optimisation (as the 55 are... ) ?</p>

<p>Thanks anyway !</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'm in the process to buy a new macro lens for my aptus 22 (and arca fline 69).<br>

While ive found that with extremely wide angles, i had to go to the digital lens route ... i've also find that my apo sironar S 150, perform extremely well...<br>

I have the oportunity to buy a 120 macro sironar lens (orange ring) for a good price, but i'd like to know if someone test it and compare it to his digital brother or even to the Hassaelbald CFi 120 ?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>5 pieces @ <br>

http://www.digitaltransitions.com/accessories.php<br>

but US only ;-(</p>

<p>As long as you don't need tilts, swings, shifts or rise/fall...</p>

<p>For shift, it's ok... using a flexbody screen adapter !<br>

First focus, then shift.</p>

<p>He bought the sinar P years ago, and the P20 was a bargain in second hand... considering precision, i've fount out the same problemm with an Arca Fline... but if you mount the lens on a focussing mount, then it's ok... precise as an alpa !<br>

The main problem still the ground glass... but he can shoot via the computer, and check the exposure... not live view but still better than previous polaroïd test shots !<br>

I'm dreaming of an Aptus with the same live view as the 5D II... just dreaming !</p>

<p>A friend of mine needs to mount his P20 on his Sinar P camera for a tabletop project.<br>

Subject size : from 1cm to 30cm Location : studio with srobe He needs to buy a sliding back... best option ? best value for money ?<br>

From chinese ebay stuff to Flexadapter... cambo maybe ?</p>

<p>He also needs a new lens, considering the subject, what's the best option between 100 and 120 ?<br>

105/f5.6 Apo Sironar Digital<br>

120/5.6 Apo Macro Sironar Digital<br>

100/5.6 Apo Digitar N 120/5.6<br>

Apo Macro Digitar the HR is too expensive... and it will upgrade to a larger sensor...</p>

<p>Has anyone tried to use a Nikon 35mm PC (perspective control) lens on a 5D? </p>

<p>you should consider a D700... while i'm a canon user, it's said that with this lens you get less color fringing with the D700 than with the 5D. Don't ask me why...</p>

<p>i will use it on a 5D and later on a 5DmarkII.<br>

I will use F11 for deph of field...</p>

<p>I need to ad a 70-200 zoom lens for architectural details... i will shot only with tripod and @F11...<br>

i'm considering the F4 Non IS for this... is it a good idea ?</p>

adapting a Dslr isn't a solution for architecture (not wide angle friendly !)

You should shoot film instead... and for architecture shots, i prefer arca swiss stuff !

Monorail, but fold nicely !

Nikon or Canon... Lenses are important too... i'm dreaming of a new 24 TSE as good or even better than the new Nikon PC-

E...

if you need a 24 shift lens... then the new nikon is far superior !

if nikon can... canon will !