ely_bass

<p>Larry, is there a database of film labs anywhere? I searched google and found the world map of labs at:</p> <p>https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=zx4n3Oq2WQw8.kf7oz_juBeI4</p> <p>This map is maintained by feelingnegative.com.</p> <p>I added Discount Drug Mart to the Google map database. It's the only wet lab listed in central Ohio. I know there's at least one other one. Are there any more? Maybe some that can scan in high resolution?</p> <p> </p>

<p>If anyone near the 43147 zip code is looking for an up and running 1-hour (roughly) photo lab, there's one in Pickerington, Ohio. It's in the Discount Drug Mart (discount-drugmart.com). They have a roll processing machine for C-41, a Kodak 135 Plus scanner and a Kodak printer. They seem to be pretty busy.</p> <p>The prices are very reasonable and I consider myself fortunate to have this lab nearby. Here's the price breakdown:</p> <p>Processing (24 or 36) C-41 color or B&W: $4.39 and you get your negatives back cut and sleeved!<br> Kodak Scan (1500 x 1000) to CD $2.99<br> Process & Print: $7.99 for roll of 24. (36 is about $10)</p> <p>The Kodak 135 Plus scanner can scan 3000 x 2000, but they only know how to do 1500 x 1000. It's good enough for a 4 by 6, but that's about it.</p> <p>There's only one other lab in the area I know of and it's in Dublin, OH (43016/43017). That's way across town. Supposedly it's a pro-quality lab, but it's too far away from me.</p> <p>As for quality, the negative processing has been very good and consistent. The 4x6 prints are OK. I had them process a roll of Ilford XP2 Super 400 B&W film. The negatives were very nice. The prints came back over-exposed and very low contrast. It was kind of an interesting effect, but not representative of the negatives. I can do better scanning them with my Wolverine F2D-20M scanner.</p> <p>If anyone knows of any other labs in the area, please let me know. If you want some more info about the Discount Drug Mart lab, please ask.</p>

<p>Right, that's exactly the connector I fixed on my FT-1. The other 3 connectors used nice silicone gaskets. They were in great shape. The connector you show is the hardest one to get to and it used a foam gasket that turned into goo. Did yours do the same thing?</p> <p>Good picture, BTW.</p>

<p>I just fixed another FT-1. Similar problem to the last -- the mechanical parts seem real solid, but the connectors are awful. While working on this camera, I stopped to look closely at what seemed at first another flat electrical connector (picture attached). But the business end was encased in clear plastic. This looks to me like an optical photo-detector array. Does anyone know what this is and what it's for? I didn't tear down the camera any more to see what was feeding the signals.</p> <p>Is this a part of the metering and are they using optical fibers to bring light from somewhere in the body to the electronics in the metering circuit?</p> <p>Just curious.</p><div></div>

<p>Hey, never mind. Fixed that one too. It wasn't supposed to work like that and now it doesn't. So now I have a fully working T3, FS-1 and FT-1. And there's that M flashing when OFF but working FS-1. That will be my Konica line-up.</p> <p>Of course I have some Olympus, Minolta and Mamiya gear too. So many cameras... so little time! :)</p> <p>Thanks for all your suggestions.</p><div></div>

<p>I don't know. I just compared T3s to FS-1s on ebay and couldn't see much difference in what they're actually selling for. You might be right about brands other than Konica or maybe I compared the wrong models.</p> <p>I also own a T3, and it's way more squirrely than my good FS-1 which isn't squirrely at all and hasn't been for 30 some years. I took the "flashing M" FS-1 apart and found only one connector. It was fine. Everything else is soldered. It's a much newer version than what I call my "good" one. I don't know if it's supposed to flash the M when off or what. Seems weird to me. It's kind of difficult to get into the ON/OFF switch. You have to take the speed/ISO control apart. I haven't done that yot. I wonder if there's a short in the switch and the camera remains powered even when the switch is off. The shutter release lock works so I can't half-press the button to see if the meter is on. Dunno. </p>

<p>OK, that job was pretty easy. I resprung and cleaned the switch contacts. The meter and the battery check work very reliably. The 125 speed & 100 ISO meter check falls right in the red index mark</p> <p>I was reading the manual and it says that there's supposed to be an M indication when the lens isn't set to AE (or EE on some lenses). I don't know if it doesn't work right with my lenses but I don't get the M. Is this typical of these cameras?</p> <p>Also, the stop down lever seems to be coupled to the meter so if the meter thinks there's enough light, it doesn't stop down the lens. It's almost like it will only let me preview the f stop for how the camera will set the lens when it takes an auto exposure picture. This happens if I'm set to AE or 22. Is that how these cameras work?</p> <p>When I operate the shutter with f=22, the lens stops down to 22 like it's supposed to. I can't make the stop down lever do that unless it's really bright.</p> <p>It almost seems like whatever the coupling is that tells the camera that the lens is in manual mode isn't working.</p> <p>Any ideas?</p>

<p>OK, never mind. I go it.</p>

<p>My question is more specific related to step 1. I know that there's a spanner nut under the chrome disk on top of the wind lever. How does that chrome disk come off?</p>

<p>Thanks for the suggestion. I'll take snapshots of the parts for sure. So I'm getting ready to start on this and think I have everything mapped out except one part. Do you remember how to remove the wind lever? Or is it attached to the top?</p>

<p>I just bought a Konica T3 with an intermittent meter. The problem is not the meter and it's not battery connection. It's an intermittent switch. I'd like to know if anyone has any technical words of advice (aside from send it for repair) before I remove the top and start on this.</p> <p>Thanks</p>

<p>I just bought a very nice Konica T3 with a bad meter. Everyone on every forum blames either a bad meter or a bad battery connection. I just want to point out that this is not always the case. My particular T3's problem is with the ON/OFF/CHECK switch. If I move it very slowly and carefully, I can occasionally find a position where the meter works PERFECTLY. The check position works most of the time, but it too is intermittent. Wiggling the ON/OFF/C control makes it come alive again. So I am convinced it is the switch and not the most often cited problems.</p> <p>Has anyone ever cleaned or re-sprung the contacts in this switch? Is this something easily done requiring only the top cover removal? I've done that sort of thing before but never on a T3. And this one is a very nice one so I would like to hear a voice of experience before I start.</p> <p>I read the article on battery compartment replacement and that seems like way too much work. But fixing the switch should be a lot easier.</p> <p>Please don't respond to only tell me about a Konica repair service.</p> <p>Thank you</p>

<p>Thanks for the great info, Gus. The camera works and now that I took a second look through the viewfinder, that tiny scratch in the viewscreen is barely noticeable. :)</p> <p>I have two of these FS-1's and one FT-1. The older of the FS-1's is my favorite and has gotten the most use. Now that I have your ear... the newer FS-1 has an odd problem. The M LED flashes when the shutter release lock is in the OFF position. Other than that, it works perfectly. Is it supposed to work like that or is something wrong?</p> <p>I know there's an easy workaround to this problem, take the battery pack out. But that's inconvenient. Have you ever seen anything like that before?</p> <p>Thanks in advance,<br> Ely</p>

<p>I am thinking about swapping out the prism glass on my Konica FS-1 because it has a small scratch on the bottom, just above the mirror. Does anyone have experience doing that? This is a job I would like to do myself and am not really interested in sending the camera somewhere for repair.</p> <p>Technical suggestions are welcome.</p> <p>Thanks.</p>

<p>The FS-1 might be a hard one to work on, but I really like mine. I've owned it almost forever. It still works like new. I bought it from a junk box in a camera shop back in the early 80s. I don't remember what was wrong with it, but I fixed it and used it for a long time. Then I put it down for about 20 years. I pulled it out of my camera pile, put batteries in it and it fired right up. It was missing the self-timer switch until just recently that I was able to replace with one from a junk FS-1 I got on ebay. The best thing about my FS-1 has always been the pictures it takes. So it's hard for me to believe it's the worst Konica camera ever made. But I haven't tried them all. The early FT-1's seem worse and less reliable. The only better thing about the FT-1 is that it's easier to fix one particular problem it has.</p> <p>I have visited Greg's website and read about him in forums. I don't really think I'll be getting the FS-1 with the blinking M fixed. It's just a cheap backup. And honestly, I'm not sure there's many old SLR cameras worth the money to have them fixed. It's so easy to find oodles of working classic cameras at crazy low prices. I'm near a major metro area and even the local Craigslist has many. I can play with them before buying.</p> <p>So I don't feel right bugging Greg and asking him for tips on what's up with the blinking M LED. I do like to tinker and thought that others may have seen this issue before.</p> <p>I've never owned a non-motorized Konica but there's a TC-3 coming my way. I'll soon see how much more reliable those were over the FS-1's. Not having an exposure lock will be a PIA for sure. Also not having the auto film loading and 1.5 fps continuous drive will be a different experience.</p> <p>Anyway, if anyone knows why the M LED would flash with the camera off, please let me know.<br> <br />Thanks.</p>