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simon_novak

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  1. <p>Larry, you are, what I believe they call, THE MAN! :) Thank you so much! I just refixed the rolls with fresh fixer and they look great, I'll have to get them properly scanned asap.</p> <p>About a decade ago, when I would develop a roll of b&w film from time to time, I don't remember having any problems with fixing and I doubt I mixed it fresh more than once a month. </p> <p>Anyway, thanks again!</p> <p> </p>
  2. <p>Oh, I could still save them? I'll try that! Thanks Larry! Another thing, any idea how long a 1.5 liter of 1+9 fixer will last? As I understand it doesn't get depleted as quickly as developer does, right? So based on my experience, I should probably mix fresh fixer every two weeks or so? Or even more frequently?</p>
  3. <p>Hello,</p> <p>today I developed two rolls of Tri-X rated at ISO 200 in Adonal 1+50 for 9 minutes, the density seems ok to me, but I got a strange yellowish stripe in the middle of the roll. Does anyone know why that happens? Below is a photo of what it looks like.</p> <p>The developer was fresh for both rolls, although my fixer (mixed 1+9) in a 1.5L (about 1/3 gallon) bottle is three weeks old and I already fixed five 35mm rolls with it, is that too old? It hasn't gone dark or anything.. What I'm probably doing wrong is when I pour out my fixer I do it in two takes because pouring from my tank into a bottle is not possible as I would spill half of it, so it goes into a separate container with only half a liter capacity, so for about 10-15 seconds a part of the film is sitting in the fixer and the other part isn't. Could that be the problem? But then the stripe should be paralel to the roll edges. And it doesn't seem like a light leak or anything similar either..</p> <p>Anyway, I have no idea what's going on and if anyone can help, I would really appreciate it! Thanks!</p><div></div>
  4. <p>Hi, I'm thinking of buying a Bronica SQ-A with a Zenzanon 80mm PS lens. Aside from normal photography I suspect I'll be using it for taking lots of long exposures with it. I googled and googled and couldn't find an answer..</p> <p>Can anyone tell me, do the PS versions of the Zenzanon(especially the 80mm) lenses have a T setting on them for bulb photography? The S versions don't have that option, right? Another thing, when you lock the mirror, the camera doesn't drain the battery even if I leave it exposing for a long time?</p> <p>Thank you!</p>
  5. <p>Hehe, from now on I am keeping my undiluted fixer bottle (of course, identical shape to the dev one!) hidden from my sight, covered with a rag at the far end of the shelf, that should take care of things.</p> <p>Now, if someone should stumble upon this thread wondering how to develop TP in LC29, I found out stand developing works great, at least for me. So, LC29 1+100 at 20°C (68°F), initial agitation for half a minute, then stand, followed by two gentle inversions at 30 minute mark and another 30 minutes of stand. Was very happy with the contrast.</p>
  6. Ahem.. I was fixing instead of developing, you were right. I just wanted to develop a fresh roll I recently shot and I realized I grabbed my fixer to start mixing it for development.. Stupid, stupid.. :) Eh, we learn from our mistakes.
  7. Yes, I know fixing first gives transparent negatives, but I'm absolutely positive that wasn't the case. My fixer is in a cola bottle and my developer is in the Ilford one, no way I could have mixed them. Hm.. unles the wife had something to do with it! :) Ok, joking aside, I'll try with Adonal when I get it, this time without any crazy dilutions and hope it works better. As for the stand development, I read that you can put rolls with different ISO(50, 400 and 1600 for example) together and get them all developed just fine, that's why I went with this aproach since I wasn't sure exectly how I rated the Tech Pan. Thank you all for your help.
  8. <p>No, there was no edge info on the film, every square mm of it was transparent. The developer is ok, I bought it two weeks ago and I always mix fresh when doing stand development since the dev gets exhausted. I also developed 5 35mm rolls with it and everything was just fine.</p> <p>I shot the two rolls with an old Bronica so there could be a technical malfunction but in the year I used it I must have put about 30 rolls through it without ever having any problems. The lens cap should have been off otherwise I wouldn't have seen anything throug the viewfinder. So I really don't know what's going on here..</p> <p>I guess I'll wait for the Adonal dev to arrive and try with that. I searched the Massive Dev Chart for some info and that's what I got:</p> <table frame="box" rules="all" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td >Technical Pan</td> <td >Rodinal</td> <td >1+100</td> <td >25</td> <td > </td> <td >60</td> <td > </td> <td >20C</td> <td ><a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?devrow=9124">[notes]</a></td> </tr> <tr> <td >Technical Pan</td> <td >Rodinal</td> <td >1+100</td> <td >25</td> <td >7-9</td> <td >7-9</td> <td >7-9</td> <td >20C</td> <td ><a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?devrow=3215">[notes]</a></td> </tr> </tbody> </table> <p>Can anybody explain how you can get from 7-9 minutes to 60 minutes using the same dilution and temperature? What am I missing here? Any other thoughts about how I should aproach this with Adonal?</p> <p> </p>
  9. Hi Larry, thanks for a quick response. Well, since it was 10 years ago, I really can't be 100% sure, but I'm almost certain it was exposed. Those were the last two rolls I shot after going digital and I remember saying to myself, come on, get your tank out and develop them, otherwise they'll rot in the drawer for 10 years and then end up in the trash. Well, one of them is in there already.. :)
  10. <p>Hello,<br> a couple of days ago I found two exposed Technical Pan 120 films I shot about 10 years ago, I believe rated at ISO 25. Since I recently got back into film photography I thought, what the heck, I'll try and develop one and see what happens. What happened was the film was completely clear/transparent - absolutely nothing on it.</p> <p>Here's what I did:<br> 1 min presoak, semi stand development in Ilfotec LC29 1+100 (6mL dev, 600mL water) at 18°C(65°F) I read lowering the temperature reduces the possibility of fogging with old films, then normal fix for 5 minutes. All the chemicals were fresh. The LC29, supposedly, is similar to HC-110, only more diluted, which should be ok for stand development. I've used the 1+100 formula with LC29 with several films now and they all came out ok. So now I'm at a loss.. Any idea what I did wrong and what I should do with my second roll? I can't find any usable information on how to develop Tech Pan with LC29.</p> <p>A few days ago I ordered a bottle of Adonal/Rodinal and I should receive it by the end of the week, do you think I should try with that? Digitaltrouth's Mass Dev Chart has that on their list with Tech Pan. Otherwise there's a limited supply of developers in my region and I'd hate to order something just to develop one roll of film.</p> <p>Any information would be much appreciated, thank you!</p>
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