peter_v.

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When you load the film holder and insert it into the scanner, you will have the option of scanning one of (3) frames. You will feel a notch during the insertion, that is the frame that will be scanned, insert further and you will feel the 2nd notch, further and then the 3rd notch............You can then pull the holder and reinsert the other end, with the correct orientation, and scan the other (3) frames in the same manner.....I have not used an automatic batch function, but I'm on vuescan also. Congrats on getting the scanner and SCSI operation in XP working, there can be a lot life left in some of these older scanners........

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What's wrong with the Mamiya 645 50mm T/S ? I thought that was a good lens?

I would not consider that hardware really lightweight....

 

On my trip I took an Elan 7, 35mm f2, and a brick of B&W film. Cargo type shorts with pockets. That's about as light, quiet, and fast as I could get an EOS set up, I was happy with my results...

 

For your set-up, no question, the 17-40mm. It is a P&S paradise though, so it might be wise to bring one along ......

If you can, test this lens with a film body. I have got conflicting results with my lens. The film results and the enlargements are extremely sharp, when using a 10D digital body it did not seem so. I bet it is a combination of this lens and that digital body ....

120 should be easier than 35mm. However, all reels are not created equal. To stop your pain, get the English made Hewes type steel, you will not go back....

I have the RF645 and the 3 lenses, use it only for black and white. You have to love film to want this camera, black and white film especially. It will be a cult or niche type camera, already is I suppose. I have to admit that I wish I used it more than I do, but it is fantastic for enviromental type portraits.

The open edge of a portfolio makes a dye print very susceptible to yellowing from my experience. I stored 8.5x11 Canon Photo Paper Pro in sleeves, the exposed edges had very noticable yellowing. The interior portion of the paper remained original white, this was after only 1 year in a binder. I have framed this paper behind glass and those prints still appear fine. I have noticed, to Canon's credit, that they have disclosed the existence of this very situation in the fact sheet enclosed with the paper.

 

I am going to an oversized portfolio for this paper and centering the prints away from the exposed edge. I guess I can report back in a few years with the results, but it would be interesting to hear if anyone else has had success using an oversized portfolio

I went to Arlington last month, people were told to stay away from any funeral ceremony. It seemed like common sense, but people need to be told what is, and is not respectful sometimes. I would hate to see camera restrictions, or an outright exclusion of photography in a place such as this, due to disrespectful photographers.

You stated ... " I think if I had stated that, "I shot my first wedding this week, what do you think of my results?", and posted some photos along with f-stops used, film, lenses and lighting setup statistics, even if they were totally off, I would have gotten more useful information on what I wanted to know."

 

"Totally off"---This attitude is d@mn disgrace. The idea that you would have the balls to shoot someones wedding, with the known potential for crap results, is a disgrace to all wedding photographers, and the client, no matter what their financial means! Do you understand the significance and responsibility that photographing a wedding entails? Do yourself a favor, don't shoot a wedding until you have 100% confidence in your abilities...

 

I'm holding to my previous post analogy, it is correct, someone please help me here...

Richard, time to chill dude !!! I think you would get a better response in these forums if you focus down your questions and did some research also. Remember, some of the people here have decades of experience and skill, you need to respect that. You basically came on and stated you saw some nice photography and want to go into business !! It's kind of like me installing a light fixture and then asking a master electrician how to go into business, what type response do you think I would get?

 

It is helpful to use the search function and archives before posting. Ask pointed and direct questions on topics that you have not found good answers to.

 

Above all, as stated before,you need to shoot, shoot, and shoot some more. There is no substitute. Remember, this is a profession for some people. Anyone can make some business cards up and claim to be a photographer, it does not do the profession of photography any good unless you can produce quality images........

There are many experienced photographers here, it would probably help them answer your question if you uploaded images, or had a link to your portfolio, then they could see where you are at. If you don't have an organized portfolio, you need to start here.

Your answer is here for online learning...

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The correct Zing model for the RF645 is the "PRO SLR" version. As close to a perfect fit as I have found. Something is going on with the Zing line though, out-of-stock for several months now..

Hugh,

 

I have the RF645 and am very pleased with it, the 65mm is good wide open also. Exp comp is easy with a +2 to -2 wheel on the back of the camera. I did a lot of soul searching before going for this system, and it really did come down to the Mamiya 7 or RF645 in this niche. The way things are going, the RF645 may be the last new intro for MF rangefinders period ....

 

 

It seems a minor thing, but I really wish for a fitted "eveready" type case for the RF645.

Question for Mark... I have the f4 70-200mm and find it extremely sharp. I am curious as to which of the zooms you find you use more. Most people seem to have a difficult decision between the two for various reasons, mostly because of price....

At what aperture are you shooting at? Then again, you have a digital rebel, why wouldn't you want the 17-40L? If you are asking this question, I would say you probably wouldn't notice...

I don't know what your experience with L glass is, but deciding between an F4 and F2.8 in this zoom range seems to be a common one. I purchased the F4 this summer and it is my first L lens, for me, it has been a great introduction into the world of L glass.

 

I have no problem using it with elan II and elan 7 bodies, it's large, but you can walk around with it on no problem, which is great. I did get the tripod mount which costs, but it makes the unit feel more secure to me. I did a music/street festival with this lens and a 50mm, I was stunned with the sharpness of this zoom lens at F4. Did an outdoor rodeo with this lens almost exclusively, again, stunned at the super sharp negatives I got shooting intense action at f4...

 

Get the F4, you'll know soon enough if it fits your needs. At its current price, it's a bargain. If you don't like it, you can sell it no problem without losing much at all....