john_horvath1

<p>Thank you everybody for all your detailed responses. Now I get it. :)</p>

I should have made myself clear: I'm shooting handheld, so I definitely want to use 1/125, but I still don't want to underexpose. So if I shoot at f8 1/125 with plus 1 EC dialed in, will I get f5.6 1/125 light on my film?

<p>This a real rookie question:<br> Let's say I use a medium format rangefinder camera, that has an exposure compensation dial. I'm shooting outside, and the sky is real overcast, so my light meter tells me that I should shoot at f5.6 1/125, but I want use an aperture of f8. So if I dial in plus 1 on the exposure compensation dial, that means that I can shoot f8 1/125 as if it were f5.6 1/125? <br> Someone please explain this to me in the simplest terms.</p>

<p>Thank you guys for all your helpful responses! Yeah, that's what I was afraid of, getting the exposed film wet with putting it into freezer.</p>

<p>Rookie question here:<br> How to store exposed medium format negatives (Portra 400) after exposing them? I'm going on a summer trip, and the exposed ones will have to wait a good 5-7 days before being developed. I shouldn't put them into the freezer, right?</p>

<p>I'm just starting to use the Mamiya 7 II and wondering what the best polarizer filter is for these kind of lenses?<br> It doesn't hurt if it makes the tone warmer.</p>

<p>Thanks again for all the elaborate responses everyone. I shoot Portra 400 film and then scan it with a friend's Epson scanner. What I gather from all of your responses is that it's definitely not a filter issue, but rather a scanning issue. As a newby I have no experience with scanning and color correction, which might be the reason. Maybe these two close crops might give you an idea what I'm talking about:<br> <a href="http://imgur.com/oX782fT,6JHZTsz#0">http://imgur.com/oX782fT,6JHZTsz#0</a><br> <a href="http://imgur.com/oX782fT,6JHZTsz#1">http://imgur.com/oX782fT,6JHZTsz#1</a><br> What's a good way to learn about color correction after scanning? Also: what's a good software to use?</p>

<p>So I've been shooting with a Nikon F4 using ISO 400 film for the past few months and I have recurring problem with my pictures: in broad daylight following sunny 16 rules some surfaces (like people's skin or the brighter ones) always appear to be whiter than they are. Even in situation when I definitely don't overexpose (at f 5.6 1/4000). How do I compensate for this? What kind of filter do I have to use to get that nice yellowish/brownish hue that most professional photographers have on their daylight pics? I use AF Nikkor 1.1:8 50 mm lenses.<br> Also: in what daylight situation is it necessary to use filters and in what not?</p>

<p>Thanks so much for all the elaborate responses guys! What I'm gathering from all of this is that I should get a cheaper but good digital meter, and give it a go. </p>

<p>I thought I get more accurate/easier metering with a light meter, no?</p>

<p>I mostly shoot film on a Nikon N90s in ambient light, never in a studio. I'm looking forward to buying a Minolta light meter, either a IV F or a V F. Which one would you guys recommend and why? I almost never use flash, and prefer daylight while shooting.</p>