awahlster

<p>WAS? hmm interesting question. I would rather my favorite FD body is the F-1N/T90 the combo of the two can do everything I can think of on film.</p>

<p>Ok not everything.....................</p>

<p>I got two why shouldn't you. I had 13 FD bodies at one time. 2) F-1N's 2) T90's 2) A1's 3) AE-1P's (one black) 2) AE-1's 1) EF 1)Black FTB<br>

Down to 10 now.</p>

<p>The trouble with x-rays is the effect on film is accumulative. So you leave the USA that's 1. you arrive in Europe you You take the chunnel train or a connecting flight that's 2. You visit some museum or other place with a high security risk factor that's 3. You fly home through Frankfurt Airport and that's a full on bomb detecting swab with a coupe passes through the X-ray machine that you can see and maybe one you don't and that 4-5-6. And when you get home your poor film has not only had all this X-ray but all the Gamma Radiation from spending 16 hours at 38,000'+ in an aluminum can.<br>

The gal at the Chunnel train told me not to worry their machine only effects film over 1600ASA. I told her great I have 6 rolls of 1600 ASA film in my bag. She pushed my camera backpack right through the machine smiling at me the whole time. I don't think she really gave a diddly squat about my photos.</p>

 

<p>In 2003 the wife and I shot 82 rolls of 36exp film in England France and Germany. Spent almost an hour and a half in the Frankfurt airport while some idiot licked and sniffed every roll of film through some bomb detector.<br>

We humped a Canon Backpack and a smaller bag both jammed full of equipment.<br>

I went to maybe a half dozen various Camera stores bought a early Canon FD 135mm f3.5 in London.<br>

Nothings scanned everything is in slide reels.<br>

In 2018 we are planning on going back to England and I hate to tell you but I'll be packing a Canon Digital with a mega zoom and a few memory cards.</p>

 

<p>Its not that they loose magnetism but that they get sticky. Many times you can slam the camera hard on the bottom (some recommend hitting them on a carpeted floor, I have managed it with the heel of my hand) and it will knock the magnets loose. Run the camera shutter a few dozen times and its good to go until the next time. A good CLA will sure help stop this behavior.<br>

YMMV</p>

 

<p>The 600mm f4.5 is not an L lens and granted I have only ever owned one comparing it to my 500mm f4.5L the 600 was noticeably softer with a slight loss of contrast.<br>

I ended up selling it off.</p>

<p>As to the long minimum focusing distance. That is what the FD-15 extension tube is for to shorten up the focal distance.</p>

<p>My back yard bid lens was for a long time a Canon 500mm f4.5L S.S.C. with a FD-15 extension tube and a 2X-A extender. My back yard is only about 20' wide and I had no trouble with the combo.<br>

The Extension tube will also add a little bit of magnification.<br>

Using this combo a Blue Jay would pretty much fill the frame so on a APS-C or half frame sized sensor you might want to drop to the 1.4X-A extender or loose the extender all together.<br>

The 800mm is an excellent lens by all reports but very long heavy and clumsy to handle. And with a half frame you better have the tripod to end all tripods to keep it steady. </p>

<p>My experience has been that Canon Knew exactly what they were talking about when they said to use the A with lenses of 300mm and longer and the B with lenses shorter then 300mm. Not hard to imagine the company that designed both the lenses and the extenders would know what worked best.<br>

I own all 3 of the Canon extenders and have owned multiples of the A and B at one time or the other. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>NO NO NO Mark take a tooth pick and sharpen it to a fine point. Now with a piece of either plastic wrap (from the kitchen) or cellophane packing tape covering the finger print area of what ever digit you want to use to push this piece back in place and hold it there for 3-4 min.<br>

Then take some thick or slow superglue (you can find it at hobby shops if not a hardware store. Put the smallest drop on the toothpick if its much more then wetting the toothpick you have to much.<br>

Now now slide the toothpick with the wet super glue on the back side of the little sliver and in one quick action press the sliver back in place and hold it for 3-4 min the plastic wrap will keep the glue from sticking to your finger.<br>

That should do it. </p>

<p>If your afraid of a glue solution then try some electrical tape or masking tape colored black </p>

 

<p>Look for a Tokina 7 element converter they are about an inch and 1/2 tall and have 7 rows of bumps on the rubber grip area in the center. Second only to the real CANON extenders. I have owned both and used both for bird photography with 400 and 500mm Canon FD lenses and the Tokina holds its own very very well.</p>

<p>Go to a decent hardware store and get a couple 1" OD x 1/4" ID rubber washers and slip them between the attachment and the body of the camera. They will keep the corners from wear and since they are rubber bend out of the way if your hand needs to get past them</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Let me put it to you this way. If your photos are good enough to need the difference between a 50mm f1.4 nFD and a 50mm f1.2L nFD then you should start selling your photos and move to modern equipment.</p>

<p>The 50mm f1.4 nFD is razor sharp with excellent correction and color</p>

<p>I have owned ALL the canon 50mm lenses from the 1950's Chrome rangefinder version on up through to the 50mm f1.2L nFD and the 1.4 gives up nothing in image quality the advanced amateur photographer could need. <br>

IMHO<br>

YMMV</p>

<p>Jeff I have a US NAVY 200mm f2.8 IF nFD got it in a bundle with my USN F1N body and a couple other USN marked lenses which weren't as nice as the ones I already had so they went back to ebay.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I tend to take photos of the little things in nature so a 90-100mm Macro would be high on my list as would my 20mm (for waterfalls if there are any along the path) if not then 24mm f2.0 50mm f1.2L Tokina 90mm f2.5 Macro and my 80-200mm f4.0L a light weight tripod and flash. Most likely with a T-90 body.</p>

 

<p>There are two different focusing screens used in Canon EF bodies one has a split screen the other is a simpler prism I forget at approx. what serial number they changed. Both work great.</p>

<p>The coatings on the 50mm f1.4 FD S.S.C. or nFD versions is vastly superior to what was being used on the earlier FL lenses.</p>

 

<p>Using batteries not designed for the MA battery pack is asking for trouble. The NiMH pack will not stall out at the end of the roll and either cause the motor drive to be damaged or the film can tear off the spool.</p>

<p>This problem as been known and discussed on forums for close to 15 years now. Do so at your own risk.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>On an A1 the 300tl operate the same as any other Thryster flash reading the reflected light and shutting itself off when the proper amount of light is reached.</p>

<p>The A1 has no special dedication with the 300TL and to explain how a 300TL works you need to read the about 30 page book that was written on it. and then good luck its the closes to voodoo and witchcraft I have ever run into in Photography and I used to shoot Weddings with a Pair of T90's and dedicated 300TLs</p>

<p>Yep your Camera needs a Clean Lube and Adjust service they run about 80-100 bucks and will make most cameras preform like new.</p>

<p>Not that there would be any reason to stop a pure analog POW thread. There really isn't enough traffic in the current POW thread to warrant a need to separate out what media the photo is captured on.</p>

<p>Alex you do as you have been doing and it will be good.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Yea but he asked what Canon hood the lens used. Not how to take photos guys LOL</p>

<p>Your not likely to find anyone who has had both to compare.</p>

<p>The 135mm f2.8 is a consumer grade lens. The 100mm f2.0 is an L grade lens and is of the very highest professional quality in every way.</p>

<p>I own both.</p>

<p>Nice over the years I have wasted an unbelievable amount of film on the moon. And the weird thing is it always looks pretty much the same LOL.</p>

<p>Nice shots though. </p>

<p>I have both I use the 28-85 more then the 35-105. Image quality at his point is going to be down to your lenses condition.</p>

<p>Shooting slides with mine I can't tell a difference between them. </p>

<p>Good lck finding one of them. The astrophotography guys went nuts and bought about 80% of them for some reason they were the prefect lens for a particular type of photography. I have seen setups that had 4 of them mounted on an array that tracked something.</p>

<p>Try a google search for Canon 200mm f1.8 astrophotography might bring up a photo.</p>