felix_wu1

<p>Unfortunately you could never achieve a blurred windmill and a sharp subject at the given lighting condition...not during day time for sure.</p>

<p>Just use HSS with your B2 to freeze action outdoor!</p>

<p>Just curious, why not the Para?</p>

<p>Thanks David. I have been shooting 135 for 8years and have been shooting professionally. The more I shoot the more I desire to learn more and set up the game. One of the main reasons for me to go MF is because I want to learn the new system and hopefully one day will master it. With my current 135 Canon gears I work super fast so I intend to slow down a bit and use the larger sensor to create better stills. I would use MF both for leisure and work. Take pictures.<br> I will definitely move towards MF. But I could also wait a year or so to see where technology is heading or when things get more affordable. In short, to learn, to enjoy and to take pictures. : )</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> I am new to digital MF systems so I have a lot of questions and hope to get some useful advice. Recently I have been wanting to upgrade to MF system for better image quality. I mostly shoot outdoor and sometimes in studio setting.<br> I have looked at various digital CCD and CMOS backs and feel very confused about which system to invest. Is it a good idea to start from the basic CCD model such as the Hasselblad H5D-40 or Mamiya Credo40 or should I save up to buy a CMOS or full frame 645 CCD sensor?<br> In terms of digital backs, are phaseOne or credo technically more advanced than the Hasselblad? Also I have been told the Hasselblad lenses have limited resolving power for 50+ MP sensors. Anyone can perhaps share their experience?<br> Much appreciated.<br> <br />Felix</p>

<p>Short answer. Not at all. If you wanna shoot in available sun condition and wanna darken the sky and want to keep the quality of light by using softbox, then the answer is no. Unless you want to point your light right next to your subject. At today's shoot my B1 @ full power through a 2x3RFi at a close distance was just sufficient to overpower the 4-5pm sun (I live in NZ and sun here is quite bright during summer). My rim light (second B1)modified by a magnum reflector was still very powerful.<br> B2 is just small and that's it. It's lightweight compared to regular strobe but by no means you call it light when mounted on camera. When using on camera don't forget you need a bracket (adds weight) to hold your head, and you will have a trigger on camera and a cable while you have the battery pack over your shoulder or around your waist. If you shoot with 2 B2 heads then its really cumbersome unless you are not moving much. Remember you now have a cable!<br> If its your first time investing in portable location strobe then I recommend do yourself a favor by getting the B1s. They are so much better.</p>