frank_wilson4

On 10/14/2023 at 1:38 PM, Gus Lazzari said:

This is a re-post from back in 2018 in order to correct a LINK.

- - - - - 

My preference is for the much more stable "silver oxide" batteries.

That said, one should either acquire a reusable washer to slip over the "silver" battery for a 1.5V output, or

the BEST & highly recommended step-down adapter.<<< click

Further comments on battery choices are here: Silver, Alkaline & Zinc-Air batteries <<< click & scroll down for my input...

The Energizer 357 battery is made with the silver oxide proprieties

For using a 625 battery in the original Canonet I used a sawed off piece of a dowel and wrapped foil around it to take up the excess space needed to make the 625 fit good

On 2/11/2018 at 8:27 AM, Mike Gammill said:

If estimating exposure is an option the cheapest way to get into Rollei is to pick up a Rollei 35 LED with a non working meter. The Triotar 40mm f3.5 is the same lens used in the B35 is performs fine if stopped down a bit. Shutter is 1/30 to 1/500 plus B. The original Rollei 35 (with Tessar or Xenar) lens might be another option inexpensive with non working meter.

I ended up purchasing a SPX27 battery at B&H Photo for under $12, shipping included for my Rollei 35 LED.  I am contemplating to add the Schottky diode to that camera now

On 2/24/2018 at 9:17 PM, andyfalsetta said:

Looking at photos of QL 17 it looks like an easy job removing the bottom cover (two screws). Locating the positive battery wire should be pretty simple too since the battery compartment is in the bottom of the camera. I suspect there is ample space in there to permanently locate and solder in a diode (they are about as small as a grain of rice)

I had tried that a few times and the answer is no.. Not enough room. I install mine just above the meter which takes some practice. Best to try it on a Canonet 28 first

I added a Schottky diode to my G-III which is the part number 1n1157 and the diode ives me great results  I keep these on hand for all 1.3 volt cameras in case I need them

In a GIII with the "shutter not opening problem" that I tried in vain to repair, the culprit was not the shutter itself but rather the lever that transfers mouvement from the release button to the shutter. This piece was broken, and the disassembly work required to remove it was way beyoind me - further, I had no replacement piece.

I got lucky since I had a spare shutter for the needed part. Yes, tearing one down is a chore to any novice. I dig into this type of shutter once in a while to keep my sanity

Well here we are 13 years later and now I am tearing down my defective shutters. After completion I will post my findings on the problem(s)

My first one had an egged-out shutter pawl that had to be replaced. Now it is working once again. My other one will be stripped for parts since that one has many internal problems

Hi All,

 

I just got my hands on a beautiful Canonet QL17 and noticed that the rewind knob moves around freely as I move my hand while holding the camera.

 

I loaded a test roll and checked the rewind crank and film advance mechanisms and all seem to be working properly--the film loads and advances as it should, there is no slack and the movement of the crank doesn't seem to do anything to the film. The frame counter works as it should and I am able to rewind the film fully and without any issues.

 

However, turning the knob to tighten the slack after initially loading a fresh roll of film, I noticed that the rewind knob spins back after I tighten it. I also noticed the fork (part of the rewind mechanism in contact with the canister) is a bit loose. I unscrewed/screwed back on the assembly but that didn't seem to fix the issue.

 

My question is: is this something that needs fixing or normal for this camera?

 

None of my other film cameras behave this way, the rewind knob will usually stay in place after tightening the film tension initially.

 

PS: I haven't had a chance to develop my first roll of film shot on this camera yet.

Your Canonet is A OK I had rebuilt hundreds of these and that is their design

I've used Konicas and Canonet QL17 (older model), and prefer the latter.

 

I find that when I want a small 35mm, however, I too go most often with my Rollei 35

 

My old QL17 is however a very beautiful little RF

[ATTACH=full]1402271[/ATTACH]

I do love these black Canonet cameras. Recently I bought a box load of Konica Auto S2 cameras and disassembled all of them. I can see by the measurements of the shutters they are the same as the Canonet QL17 cameras made around 1964 and 65. I swapped the lenses from my Canonet and used a set from one of the Konica cameras. Talk about a big difference!! So now I am looking for more Canonet QL17's to modify with the Konica optics

Call me crazy on this one : I am trying to port a Scheider Kreuznach, 28mm Retina Curtagon, as well as a Schneider Kreuznach 50mm Retina Xenon to a Voigtlander Vitessa T :

 

I have the optical blocks of the lenses, as well as the focusing helicoids ( lens bodies ) for Retina IIIs, and i plan to make frankenlenses for the vitessa T, by exchanging the rear mount plate of the lens, with Vitessa T lens spares that I have... is this feasible ??? I mean... flange to film distance is the same, rangedinder cam in the lens, and pin in the camera are in the same place, only thing to set, is the diaphragm actuator...

 

I really would like a super wide in my Vitessa T... or a fast normal...

 

What do you folks think ??

I had read the Retina and Voigtlander lenses have near the same mount

A little filing is needed to make it fit

Which one I do not remember

<p>I own one Minolta SLR -- an XD-11 and it is one of my favorite 35mm cameras. Beautifully smooth, and very well made. I consider it to be at -- or very close to -- the pinnacle of achievement with Minolta's 35mm cameras. I wouldn't mind owning an XK Motor either, but can't afford one. The XEs are solid cameras, no doubt. But as for the X-Series, rather than an X-700, I prefer the X-570. It may be one step down in percieved quality, but it's a big step up in another area. In manual mode, the X-570 shows both the selected aperture and shutter speed. The X-700 shows the selected aperture only, and displays the recommended shutter speed. You have to take your eye away from the viewfinder to see where you've set it. I much prefer cameras that display actual exposure settings over those that display the recommended ones. The X-700 is an earlier model that the X-570, and it seems that Minolta decided to add this feature into the newer, cheaper camera. The result, to me, is a newer, <em>better</em> camera.</p>

XK Minolta's are readily found on Ebay by sellers that do not know much or investigate how they operate. I have purchased three of these in the past 5 years and all had worked fine upon installing fresh batteries. Fresh batteries are needed to trigger the shutter to reset the camera to operate again. Most past owners left the batteries in the old camera causing the shutter mechanics to lock up. I was surprised at first so I purchased my second and third one getting the same results when new batteries were installed. Made some money on the three of these since I really did not care to keep them since I am a rangefinder guy

Is there any place where I could find a listing of Canon F-1 serial numbers

indicating the year that they were made?

Look into this link for the information you need..Canon Date Codes

I remove the front and rear optics and soak the barrel for a few hours a day for a week in standard lighter fluid. Let dry for two days and try it out before reinstalling the optics. It had worked for me in the beginning. Now I strip the entire lens apart since I repair more than one at a time now

Also back in the day whale oil was used on this model camera.

It is the hardest oil to get rid of

<p>This is so obvious I'm almost ashamed to ask but I always tell my students there are no dumb questions. So here goes. I've got a Konica Auto S2 that appears to be in wonderful shape. Everything works as it should with one exception: the aperture opening does not change when I move through the aperture settings on Bulb. I've checked the manual on Butkus and can find nothing that would suggest this is normal. I would assume it is stuck except for the condition of the camera and the fact that I've learned that many of these older cameras have strange (to me) procedures for getting some functions to work. If any Auto S2 people out there could give me a quick shout on this, I would very much appreciate it. Many thanks!</p>

<p>I have a Konica s2 Auto and no matter what I do the meter stays on showing readings with the lens cap on, I even sat the lens face down on the table and it still will not go off</p>

My problem was a chaffed wire beneath the lens bezel that houses the CDS wires. It simply grounded out the circuit and kept the meter fully active

<p><strong>Frank</strong> - thank you for your detailed comment. As the previous suggestions seemed beyond my limited mechanical abilities, I passed the camera on to a camera enthusiast with greater aptitude for these repairs. I'll pass on your (and the others') suggestions to him.<br>

I greatly appreciate the advice from everyone!</p>

I started purchasing this model for $5 to $10 each until I had about 6 of them

Then I started stripping all of them apart. The one with the worst shutter I completely torn down

It was a task in a way but I learned quite fast how to repair these. It takes about 30 minutes to get these completely apart now

I think think it's a battery problem, but a meter problem. One or two or my Spots are prone to this problem, which is intermittent. The needle tends to stick on the "+" limit and yes, it won't bulge whatever you do. Switching the meter on and off a couple of time while changing aperture and time sometimes helps "unsticking" it. I've found that humidity makes the problem worse.

 

My solution was ultimately to use a hand held meter. It improved my exposures tremendously, so I bother very little about the Spots meter cells, now.

Most likely a loose wire grounding out That will cause the meter to peg all the way up