Canonet QL17 GIII Battery Check Light

[bruce_lindeman1]

<p>Hi -- I'm new to this forum. I've been collecting/shooting various classic film cameras for several years, and have honed in on Canon for some reason. <br>

But, I just acquired an almost new condition QL17 GIII rangefinder. I popped a new Wein Cell PX625 battery in it and pressed the check light button -- and nothing. Yet, the meter seems to work. I have the aperture ring set on "A" and I can turn the shutter speed dial and see the match needle in the view finder move through the meter scale accordingly. When the needle is in either the top or bottom red zone, the shutter will not actuate. When I move the shutter speed dial so that the needle falls within the white zone, the shutter fires as expected. I can hear/see the differernce between 1/4 sec and 1/500 sec as well.<br>

My question is this: does it sound as though the problem is simply with the battery check light (e.g., a wire has come unsoldered, perhaps) and the shutter/metering is working properly with the battery. Or, does what I describe occur regardless of whether the battery is good/making contact or not?<br>

I realize that the camera will work in manual mode without a battery. However, I want to know if this camera seems to be working properly in Automatic mode.<br>

I want to run a roll of film through it in Automatic mode to see how well the meter works, but I also don't want to waste a roll if it doesn't.<br>

Thanks in advance!!!<br>

Bruce</p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>Mine did not work for a bit, and then it did. and still does. It is hard to see in bright light. However, I would really warn you against using it often. it does cause battery drain. If the shutter and light meter work in "A" mode, just shoot. You will know if things are fine if you see light meter movements, and reaction to variation in light.<br>

Enjoy!</p>

[bruce_lindeman1]

<p>That was my thought; that if it seems to be working properly, the meter moves as I move through shutter speeds, and prevents firing when out of range -- it must be working. <br>

I've got a new seals kit and I plan on removing the old, gummy seals tonight and installing the new -- then dropping in a roll and see how she does. Thanks, Arthur!</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>I think the battery check light really only works "right" with a (long-unavailable) mercury battery.</p>

[bruce_lindeman1]

<p>Interesting, John. You'd think that the Wein Cell, which is touted as having the same voltage as the original mercury battery would trip the light when depressed, But, stranger things occur with these old cameras. I have a Canonet 28 which works flawlessly w/out a check battery light. Looking forward to comparing this one w/ its 1.7 lens to the 2.8. Thanks for the help!</p>

[Brad Cloven]

<p>My light works with the Wein cell.</p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>No, it does indeed work with a Wein cell, but there is no need to use it. When the Canonet was popular, photographers had an unfounded terror of having batteries die while out in the field. Of course, the QL17GIII operates in manual, albeit without a meter, or shutter priority, which back then was classified as an "automatic" mode.</p>

<p>The battery check function will drain the battery at a faster rate. <br>

<br />A</p>

[Gus Lazzari]

<p>First off, the Canonet QL17 battery chambers are, due to their unique dimensions/design, <strong>notoriously finicky</strong>.<br /> The battery test is in fact a 'hot' incandescent lamp, so differences in amp power will affect the brightness during use.<br /> Next, the push button is a non-cleaning (no side to side movement) 'poking' switch. So a little tarnish build-up can interfere and cause resistance; so intermittent or NO function.</p>

<p>Now, the Zinc-Air batteries are for many reasons, horrible !<br /> (Low amperage, short life span and worst of all, they corrosively LEAK without warning!)<br /> As a result, I've stopped offering these as an alternative to repair clients. (Adjusting for and selling them)</p>

<p>In the image below, you'll see the best methods to utilize the higher amperage, more stabile and longer lasting SILVER batteries. (Avoid using Alkaline or Zinc-Air offerings !)</p>

<p>My test results for battery options (all available on Ebay), specifically for the Canon QL17 battery chamber/contacts<strong>:</strong></p>

<ol>

<li>The beautifully dimensioned and <em>'gold-plated'</em> diode voltage 'step-down' adapter, holding a SILVER 386 battery. (Reasonably priced, <strong>perfect fit</strong> for every photo item, with <strong>exact under-load</strong> voltage. Battery check normal brightness. For other cameras, you can also use the slightly larger SILVER 357)</li>

<li>A simple 'no diode' machined <em>'brass'</em> adapter, holding a SILVER 357 battery. (Cheap, perfect QL17 fit and because of the higher 1.5v output, causes approx a 1/2 stop of under-exposure across the EV range of light on the untouched factory set meter. Battery check bright.)</li>

<li>Slide on <em>'washer'</em> hugging a SILVER 357 battery, washer <strong>positioned properly with added thickness</strong> pad. (Cheap and causes approx a 1/2 stop of under-exposure across the EV range of light on the untouched factory set meter. Battery check bright.)</li>

<li>Original MR9 <em>'dull'</em> adapter is very expensive, <strong>too deep inside dimension</strong> so neither a 357 or 386 allows the Canonet QL17 meter to function. (Total fail)</li>

</ol><div></div>

[bruce_lindeman1]

<p>I see this guy's listing from Bangkok: MR-9 Battery Adapter for Film Camera & Exposure Meter / Mercury MR9 PX625 PX13. That it?</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>The Canonet is not supposed to fire when the needle is in the red zone, so that's normal. The fact that the meter needle is responding makes the battery check light more or less irrelevant. I agree that it's probably a bad bulb or bad contact.<br /><br />Take the camera out in a known situation, like bright sun at midday with the sun behind you. At ISO 400 you should get a reading of about f/16 at 1/500. That will tell you if the meter is in the ballpark. Or compare it against another camera or a light meter. Shoot a roll and see what you get.<br /><br />Put the camera in manual in order to turn off the meter and save the battery when not in use. There is no switch otherwise.<br /><br />I've had two of these and it' one of my all-time favorite cameras. Widely regarded as a poor man's Leica. Don't let the Leica gods hear this, but I actually like it better than my M3.</p>

[bruce_lindeman1]

<p>Thanks, Craig. I'm going to do a meter compare this afternoon. I don't really care about the battery check light, as you suggest. t just got me to wondering. I just want to make sure the meter's working as it should. We'll see how it goes! Thanks again!</p>

[bruce_lindeman1]

<p>Just wanted to follow-up...<br>

I had ordered a new seals kit for my QL17, which came on Saturday. When I got home from work this evening, I spread out on the kitchen table ad went to work to clean out the old and install the new. All went well. However, I bought a kit off eBay form someone other than Jon Goodman. Although I made it work, Jon's kit and instructions are hard to beat. I used his to replace the seals on my Yashica Electro 35 GSN last year. <br>

Anyway, when I finished up and cleaned off my QL17, pressed the batter check button and... it worked. So, whatever I did by flipping my camera around, etc. must have corrected, perhaps only temporarily, we'll see. But, at least I know that the camera "works". By the way, I found this one for $35. It's in like new condition with really no wear. It was gungy when I got it. But, gunge is easily cleaned.<br>

I'll try the 386 silver oxide batteries w/ the diode adapter once it arrives (bought one on eBay). But, for now, I've got several Wein Cell batteries to keep me going. Now, to load it up and make some pictures. <br>

Thanks for all of y'alls help. Great community of folks out here!</p>

<p>Bruce</p>

[Gus Lazzari]

<p><em><strong>Brad C.</strong></em> asked a question that his email bounced back to my gmail account.<br>

So to answer what others may also be curious about:<br>

<br />The nicest of the four I described is the 'gold plated' adapter.<br />You can order them from Ebay seller: pratedthai at:<br /><a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/pratedthai/m.html?item=130646083632&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562">MR9 battery adapter</a> <<< <em>click</em></p>

[bruce_lindeman1]

<p>Thanks, Gus. I purchased one from pratedthai last night. Thx!</p>

<p> </p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>I have written elsewhere, the QL17 GIII deserves better than to be classified as "the poor man's Leica". It is a better camera than that, especially if one accepts its limitations. I am not willing to put it into Leica class, but it might be one of the very best consumer rangefinders in what was a very crowded market at the time. </p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>PS- the seals are very easy to replace on the camera- I did it myself a couple of years back. Removal of the old gummy seals is the most challenging part. </p>

[bruce_lindeman1]

<p>Arthur - Thanks! Agreed on the battery check button. I was just trying to figure out why it wasn't working and, more importantly, did it mean my meter didn't work. Both work, so there's the good new. </p>

<p>I changed my seals last night. I've changed them on a Yashica Electro 35 GSN last year, so I was ready for it. However, I thought I bought a kit from Jon Goodman on eBay but ended up buying some other guy's kit. Not nearly as good as Jon's, if you've ever used one of his. Jon provides model specific instructions complete w/ pictures (he also provides the instructions to anyone free of charge on his site). This guy's kit did not. But, I fudged my way through it.</p>

<p>That said, the film door opens unintentionally if I press on it the wrong way. It didn't do that before. I already put a roll of film in it but I may rewind it and figure out where I sent a little heavy with the seals. Again, not a problem with Jon's kits because his are pre-cut. UPDATE: Just trimmed back a couple of pieces of seal material that were too long, but that didn't fix the door opening problem. I wondered if I may have bent one of the tabs on the door slightly during my cleaning, and sure enough -- I took a small flat-head screwdriver and pried both tabs out ever so slightly and now they catch as intended. No more unintended door opening. A half-roll or film wasted, but that's a minor inconvenience to having a good-as-new 40 year old camera functional again!<br>

Bruce</p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>Bruce- happens easily with new foam. it has a "memory", like Temperpedic mattresses.</p>

<p>Enjoy your Canonet! </p>

[bruce_lindeman1]

<p>I just went outside and compared the QL17 with my iPhone's Pocket Light Meter app and it's pretty much dead on, +/- 1 stop in varying light conditions. With print film, that's negligible. Pretty happy with that...</p>

[oli_sones]

<p>Hi all,<br>

I thought I would revive this thread as I've got a lovely QL17 which appears to have a stuck battery check switch. I only noticed this when I found an old 625 battery which kept the light on all the time. Could be why my wein cells haven't been lasting too long! Has anyone attempted to fix the check light switch? I've got film in the camera at the moment so haven't taken the top cover off. Is it easy to reach?<br>

Thanks!</p>

[Gus Lazzari]

<p><strong><em>Oli</em></strong>, the battery check switch is a simple metal blade to post contact set-up.<br>

Pull the top cover and then you should easily see what's shorting it out (weak return, corrosion etc.)</p>

[oli_sones]

<p>Thanks Gus! I sacrificed a few frames of film and opened up the top - turns out the blade was bent the wrong way so was shorting the circuit. All fixed now and working! Thanks again.</p>