bruce_varner2

<p>Correct now. I shot it correctly, just put my results down backward. Back online now. Hope it makes more sense. Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi Rick,<br> You are correct! Sorry, I did the math backwards when I wrote this. Will have it corrected shortly.<br> Bruce</p>

<p>The web is full of guides on the <strong>Brownie Hawkeye</strong>. How to test the camera. How to clean the camera. How to load the camera. What I found to be missing was anything on how to shoot with the Brownie Hawkeye camera.</p> <p>In response to some questions from others, I have added input to this subject on my website. If our are interested in the practicalities of actually capturing images with the simple Hawkeye, please take a look. The article can be found here:</p> <p><a href="http://brucevarner.com/ShootingTheHawkeye.html"> http://brucevarner.com/ShootingTheHawkeye.html</a></p> <p>Thanks,<br> Bruce</p>

<p>So that others do not have to follow the link above to find the discussed explanation, I have copied it below. Hope to help others:</p> <p>"<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=2376223">Ben Long</a>, Feb 28, 2008; 11:58 p.m.<br />..............You measure from the front of the close-up lens to the subject. Pick the "field size" on the tape which best fits the area you want included in the shot. Use the close up lens (or combo of lenses) specified on the tape by the field size (ie 4+1 lenses for a 4x5 inch field of view). Rack the camera's focus to the number that's next to the downward pointing triangle under the chosen field size. In the above example, that would be 10 ft. Your subject distance to the lens needs to be the same as the length of the tape to that triangle. You have to eyeball the framing, as the viewfinder won't be accurate. Hope that helps."</p>

<p>Thanks Stephen for the quick response! Guess I will not be learning this then. With FP100c now being out of production and my stockpile so small, I hate to waste film "practicing" to get this trick correct. I will have to stick with normal focal length shots. Oh well.......</p>

<p>I am only able to to locate one "how to" reference for this close-up kit. It is found at: <a href="/medium-format-photography-forum/00NrTY">http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00NrTY</a>, in the final response of the thread, made by Ben Long. Sorry, but I was able to follow very little of his instructions.</p> <p>1) I guess initially, does anyone have a link to the actual instructions that came with this close-up kit?<br />2) Failing that, can someone point to anyplace where there are other bits of advice on using this accessory?</p> <p>The kit consists of a leather case containing a built in ruler, and 3 close-up slip-on lenses #1, #2, and #3. Following the writing on the ruler does not seem to be intuitive..... Thanks!</p>

<p>Yes, some were sold without notches. I believe that many of the later 126 cameras did not compensate for film speed. I also believe that in the later years of the 126, the film speeds produced were much more limited. In that case the manufacturer would have expected the camera to "just work" with the film provided. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Did the packaging on the film say which cameras it was made for?</p> <p>Much good information on this subject at: http://kodak.3106.net/index.php?p=207</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses. I received this grip some time ago with a long list of other camera items. Guess now I will need to stop and try to find the cords that came with it............ Thanks again!</p>

<p>Hi,<br /> Although I know photography, I have little experience with Olympus cameras and equipment. I have this new in the box Olympus OM Bounce Grip 2. Since I do not use Olympus cameras, I was trying to sell it of. Did so and the person returned it because he said it did not fit on his OM camera. Before I try this again, I need to find a list of those OM system cameras that this unit will function with. Also, need to know if there are limitations on which flash units might not work with the grip. Searching has not produced any answers.<br /> Hoping that someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks, I did not think I had seen that option. In the tests I did raise the film up from the glass at different heights. That is what was intriguing to me, that those options which placed the film on or very near the scanner bed glass did the best job of focusing...</p>

<p>Thanks for the info Paul!</p> <p>Yes I have the Pro version. Have been using VueScan for many years & have never seen such adjustment, but I guess that does not mean its not there..... Maybe the Epson V600 does not allow focus adjustment? I am away right now. Will check it out when I can & let you know.</p>

<p>Hi Les! Thanks for the response. Not sure what you mean? I don't believe that VueScan has any input on focus point of the scanner. Does it?</p>

<p>I know that the <strong>Epson v600</strong> flatbed scanner is getting somewhat long in the tooth, but I just completed a number of tests to determine for myself what is the best method for scanning film with this unit. Others might find it interesting.</p> <p>I have recently come back to shooting more film & less digital. This results in the need to scan, as I long ago quit doing chemical darkroom and have only been doing digital darkroom for many years.</p> <p>Even though the <strong>v600</strong> is several models past prime, I was still able to obtain one new recently. Decided to try this older technology to see the results. If it was terrible, or if I continue to do a lot of film, I would move up later to newer models, if I liked this series of scanners. Also, I really do mostly medium and large format film, so squeezing out good scans with 35mm is secondary. Having said that, 35mm is what I wanted to test because it is obviously the most difficult with which to achieve acceptable results.</p> <p>The tests were conducted using the same software (VueScan), the same image (Kodak 400 TYM), and only changing the methods by which the film was placed onto the scanner bed (OEM Holder, Dry mount, wet mount, height).</p> <p>Bottom line as expected was that wet mounted is best. Surprising how much difference it made. The odd point of my results was that raising the film off of the scanner bed to simulate OEM height, seemed to make the image softer than at scanner bed level.</p> <p>If you are interested in the full results, and how the tests were conducted, it can be found on my site at:</p> <p>http://brucevarner.com/V600ScanMethods.html</p> <p>Thanks! Comments welcome.</p>

<p><strong>Larry,</strong><br> Yes I have seen that page. I seem to recall that before I became really interested in this topic, to have seen somewhere, actual dimensions, the size/depth of the different notches that determine the film speed for the camera. Cannot find it now........... Has anyone ever actually seen a cartridge for 400 speed film? I haven't.</p> <p><strong>Bill,</strong><br> I have found a couple of people mention on Flickr that they have a manual but as of yet I have not figured out Flickr enough to send them a message....</p>

<p>I know this is a very old thread, but was hoping that someone has a Kodak Instamatic 500 user manual? If a physical copy I would buy it or pay to have you copy and send the copy to me.<br> Or even a digital copy. I cannot believe that I am unable to find it anywhere. Must not have been very many of this model sold back in the day.........<br> Thanks!</p>

<p><strong>Bill & Larry,</strong><br> Thanks! I was able to successfully pop open a cartridge finally. The Exacto knife helped.</p> <p><strong>Walter,</strong><br> Thanks! The problems you mention are known. I do have an Instamatic 500 & that is why the effort to create a workable solution. I now have a usable cartridge in ASA 100 and am in the process of exposing my first roll. I will report back with results when completed.</p> <p><strong>Mike,</strong><br> As I understand it, all 126 cartridges are notched between ASA 64 & ASA 400. Not sure about which models actually use the notch? Seems to me that they all would because there are several stops difference between 64 & 400……. I do know that my 500 does have a sensor.</p> <p><strong>By the way</strong>, there must not have been many 500’s produced. I have searched the internet and am unable to find the user manual for this Kodak model in either print or digital format. If anyone knows where to find either the user manual or a repair manual for the Kodak Instamatic 500, please let me know. It is a rather straight forward camera, but it would still be nice to see what is in the manual?????</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>I need to know if there is anyone who sells 126 film cartridges that have already been modified to accept 35mm film?<br> <br /> I am sure this has been beat around, but I believe my question is slightly different.... I have seen and followed the directions found on the net, which state to obtain a 126 cartridge and twist it until it breaks the plastic welds holding it together. I have spent the money on two different 126 film cartridges now & broken both, attempting to "break the weld" on the cartridge. It is getting expensive enough now that it would be cheaper in the long run for me to buy one already "modified" for this purpose.<br /> <br /> I did find one person who had one cartridge left on eBay that was already modified. I purchased it before I knew enough to understand that the camera determines the film speed from a notch in the 126 cartridge. As would be the case, the cartridge I obtained was a 64 ASA/ISO speed cartridge. I understand that I can compensate, but to me that is a poor way to go.....<br /> <br /> I really want 2 cartridges: 1-100 ASA/ISO & 1-400 ASA/ISO.<br /> <br /> I guess it would be possible to modify a cartridge of some other film speed, but like the "instructions" I have already found in the first place, everyone spends several minutes explaining how to reload the already modified cartridge with 35mm film & only two seconds on how to modify the cartridge in the first place. I have reloaded the modified cartridge I already have and that is the easy part.....<br /> <br /> So can someone direct me to anyone who does this type of modification? Thanks!</p> <p>Camera: <em>Kodak Instamatic 500</em></p>

<p>Thought I would update the link to my focus repair of the Ikonta. I have changed my web hosting location. The file can now be found here: http://brucevarner.com/IkontabOutOfFocus.htm</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Thought I would update this thread. The original link is no longer valid. I have moved my web hosting. This article can now be found at: <strong>http://brucevarner.com/PX625Replacement.html</strong><br> Thanks!</p>

Thanks guys, Great link. I will do this. By-the-way I did not know to ask about this at the time I had the CLA's done. At least now all this info is on one thread. Thanks again. Bruce

I agree and think that would be a good solution. Do you know of any detailed instructions on such a procedure? A how to for those who do not know the process off the top of there head. Thanks. Bruce

<p>I often see posts on classic cameras where the user is questioning what the best answer is for a replacement battery to the original 625 mercury. A range of answers are provided. Sometime back I conducted a test using two identical Minolta SRT 101's. I tried to test all the most common methods of resolving the issue. Thought is might be helpful for readers to have a comparison of those methods in one location.<br /> <br />If interested you can click or copy and paste the below link in your browser for the tests and results:<br /> <a>http://home.kc.surewest.net/btvarner/PX625Replacement.html</a></p> <p>Thanks,<br /> Bruce</p>